If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
You need a restricter in the oil feed line. Unrestricted oil flow from a line that big will be way too much oil psi in the turbo and the seals can't handle that much.
And I'm sure you know to make sure the drain is above the oil level.
DJ-the extra piping around the turbo is because of the drain setup. The bung in the oil pan is lower than the oil level, so I had to run another hose to vent the drain. Now I just need some way to restrict it....
e30guy-yeah, its a lot easier to keep going once you've started back up on it. Honestly, after getting at all put on, I really wanted a break from working on it, because it was sucking up all my time. Now I've had that break, and I'm ready to jump back in haha.
Harv-I do have an oil restrictor. The feed bung on the top of the turbo has one built in; maybe 1.5mm diameter or thereabouts.
Yeah, I know about the oil drain deal. Eventually I may move it, but with the location of the turbo and such, there just wasn't another feasible option. According to people I've spoken with, the vent should get the job done.
the manifold is a custom piece that someone else had done up in Canada. It was a part of the 'kit' that I bought that sparked this whole project, and probably cost more to make than I paid for the kit haha.
replaced all of the crappy rubber IC couplings with black silicone ones, and replaced almost all of the crappy hose clamps with t-clamps. Yay, no more blowing charge pipes!! Also finished the e36 washer fluid reservoir install and wiring, circulated the turbo vent to the dipstick tube because under high oil pressure it was filling the catch can pretty darn quickly. Got a brand new LC1 free of charge, so that is finally installed and I can tune again. Installed heat shields on the ABS wire and AC lines that run near the turbo, and installed one of those turbo socks. I drove the car pretty hard up to Purdue and within 10 minutes I could touch the turbo sock. It has reduced my underhood temps by easily 20 degrees. Also re-did the wiring for the gauge backlights and the LC1 because it looked a bit too hacked-in for my taste. The pipe from the manifold to the WG is also wrapped now. Time for the fun (driving and tuning) to start :)
Slight update on the turbo-this thing runs beautifully. Got rid of a TON of vibrations after realizing that one of the bolts holding the WG brackets were actually vibrating against the body. Now the car is incredibly smooth and actually pretty quiet. It's faster than it feels, as opposed to the other way around like it used to be.
Current plans are to ditch all of the PS gear (bought one of Silence's deletes) to offset the weight and free up space. At some point I'm going to make a nicer shroud for my electric fan, because I can free up a good 2 inches in front of the engine that way. That'll give me room to make some brackets to support the charge pipes a little better.
I drilled a few small holes in the bottom of the endcaps of the IC to let out condensation and any oil that blows past the compressor seal on the turbo, but so far there is no oil at all!!! Considering that I was the one that rebuilt the turbo with no knowledge of turbo specifics, I'm pretty thrilled.
No dyno pulls yet, but that will probably come in the spring sometime.
Current highway MPG-30 mpg at 70 mph average. This is with the 4:10 diff and a roof rack, and is only maybe 2-5 mpg down from stock at the same speed, so I'm pretty thrilled with that. I don't think I'll be able to pick up much more.
Performance: 0-60 is in the neighborhood of 7.6 seconds (best of 7.5 and worst of 7.8 ) with probably 100 pounds of stuff in the trunk, 60 degrees out, no wheelspin, and pretty slow shifts. I shifted at 6k rpm and stopped time with the speedo at about 62ish to compensate for inaccuracy. The small case diff is making me a wee bit nervous, and I don't want to kill it.
3k to 6k rpm in third is consistently 7.3 seconds, and boost doesn't drop off at all, all the way up through 6500 revs :)
Glad to hear... need new pics though with the updates you've done.
PS: I'm jealous of your external WG...
"A good memory for quotes combined with a poor memory for attribution can lead to a false sense of originality."
-----------------------------------------
91 318is Turbo Sold
87 325 Daily driver Sold
06 4.8is X5
06 Mtec X3
05 4.4i X5 Sold
92 325ic Sold & Re-purchased
90 325i Sold
97 328is Sold
01 323ci Sold
92 325i Sold
83 528e Totaled
98 328i Sold
93 325i Sold
So I took my intake off the other day to check some stuff, and I checked the turbo shaft while I was in there....it's pretty loose, even after a rebuild. The thrust bearing is perfect, but there is a lot of radial play on the shaft. There are also a few witness marks on the compressor housing now too, which I'm less than thrilled about. On top of that, Garrett TA3107 parts are basically NLA, particularly, apparently, for my divided-turbine .82 AR model. I would love a new GT series turbo, but I just don't have a grand to blow right now...
Basically, the options are to try to put in a new shaft ($280) hoping that that is the issue, or I can buy a new turbo. I would either have to go with a non-split T3 turbo, a .78 AR split T3(borderline too low of an AR for a split turbo at high revs), a new GT30 or GT35 based turbo, or find a used or NOS TA31. There is a TA3107 1.06 AR divided turbine on ebay, so I might pick that up, but it has the wrong exhaust flange. I guess I can fix that, though. Apparently the Holset HX35 has a T3 style flange? Because if that is the case, I could use one of those too...
So it turns out that my nonadjustable crappy ebay blowoff valve is killing my turbo... it's a knockoff TurboXS RFL (and it really is loud. I don't much like it) that is nonadjustable, so the spring is waaaaay too stiff. What's happening is if I'm at part throttle and then I let off, the BOV doesn't really open enough/quickly enough, and I'm stuck with compressor surge. Not a lot, but enough that I can kind of hear it, and enough to kill the bearings. Also, I don't think that BOV flows much, so when I'm in boost and shift, it isn't bleeding off enough air quickly enough. Yay... So now I'm going to buy another BOV that is adjustable, quieter, and flows a lot. I might end up with a WyntonM one, because even though they are sold on ebay, I've heard good things about them, they are rebuildable, and they flow a lot. Also picking up an AFR gauge for the new a-pillar pod. Pics to come once it's all installed
Glad to hear you have found the problem mate. keep plugging away at it. I shall be stuck into my project fairly soon. got the Suby up and running finally so now quick clean up on the daily E30 and attempt to sell it then, get stuck into finishing the little things on the track car.
yeah, finally got the new BOV ordered....this thing is gonna be great once I can hold a little more compressor RPM between shifts. I'm on my snow tires now in preparation for winter and when I got on the highway in the rain yesterday, I got into boost in 3rd gear....was spinning the tires freely by 3700 revs :).
I also need to pick up a 3.73 LSD...tired of the short 4.10 gearing and not being able to put power down. I'm also a tad worried about it, given that it is a small case diff and all. I will also be adding an a-pillar pod in the near future with an analog AFR gauge and the boost gauge. I'm tired of having to look down to check it, hah.
Comment