That is correct, but only wet sand inbetween the base coats. dont wet sand the clear untill you done with your 3 or how ever many coats. Perferable use 1000 grit when sanding inbetween base coats. and i highly recomend this because it willl give you the look that your going for.
Eta-to-M50: Build thread
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That is correct, but only wet sand inbetween the base coats. dont wet sand the clear untill you done with your 3 or how ever many coats. Perferable use 1000 grit when sanding inbetween base coats. and i highly recomend this because it willl give you the look that your going for.
88' m3
91' 318is -
Nothing wrong with spray paint at all; I'm a rattle-can commando, myself. :) As stated, it's all in the prep and application (which doesn't necessarily mean following the directions on the can, either).
Degrease and clean, initial sand, good quality high-build primer, staged sanding, two medium-to-heavy coats of paint, staged sanding again, good quality ceramic clearcoat, fine wet sand or polishing compound.....good to go. I've done engines, engine bays, wheels and brakes for years using this method......works great.JasonComment
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Old trunk seal and a piece of 1/8 inch metal. The seal holds it in place and works great. I have a bunch more pics I can post if you want. Just a pain from my phone. That setup was in my 87. I have a different setup that's in my 91 I can post when I get home..Comment
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Or, KAMotors carbon fiber intake/shield setup.Need a part? PM me.
Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123Comment
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A little bit of a hiatus there, but things are back underway!
First, most of the gaskets and seals to put everything back together are on their way (thanks, blunt). I'm also picking up a new valve cover, and I'm planning to have it, the oil filter cover, and several other parts such as the engine arms powdercoated in the same mirror silver as my wheels.
This weekend, I also picked up the midsection-> back of an E36 M3 exhaust with the muffler, so once I order my headers, all I'll have to have built for the exhaust is the section between the headers and the joint of the M3 section.
Engine bay work is pretty much done, I'm working on a way to hide the harness for all of the lighting and the ABS module that runs down the inner part of the driver side fender without extending them, and I think I've got something figured out. Then I just need to paint.
From there, once I get my tranny resealed, my clutch ordered and installed, and engine mounts, the engine will be ready to go in! I'm shooting for completion within the next 2-3 months.Comment
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Definately keep us updated, Josh. Looking forward to seeing how yours turns out and gain some genuine inspiration ;)Need a part? PM me.
Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123Comment
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pictures :)Comment
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lol @ this thread. Never seen such an uplifting r3v thread before, whilst somehows maintaining its charm of trolls and sack swingers coming together in perfect harmony.
Josh - I know you've been waiting for my opinion to here it is: Go to your local Sherwin Williams Auto store, or some other local automotive paint store. See if you can get them to make you up a custom schwartz single stage spray can. They're like 15 bucks a can, and you can cover some serious area with just 1 can. You probably wouldnt need more than 2 cans total to hit the whole bay. Then cut and polish it with a PC or Griotts RO. It will turn out looking pretty damn good.Comment
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