ttrousdell's Project Thread (E30 M3 & S38 swap content)

[ttrousdell]

I was able to get a few more things done in the last two days. Coolant manifold, t-stat assembly, distributor and wires, fuel rail and injectors.



The custom radiator has really helped out tremendously with allowing me to get all of this to fit. The thermostat housing fits with just enough clearance.



Its pretty obvious that the shop that performed this swap had very little pride in what they were building. Ive have seen so much hastily put together shit on this engine. There is no way that i can use those shitty hoses so i will have to source some.



Basic diagram made of the coolant system. Not sure if im going to install the expansion tank on the passenger side yet. If I do i wont have to run some lines across the bay. I will not be using a heater core. It looks like in the original setup water came out of the exit of the water pump, labeled B, through the heater and into the back of the engine labeled A. Can I just block them or should I run a hose connecting them? From what I could see blocking them would be fine.

[CW325]

Looking good!

[ttrousdell]

After loking at the harness it became aparent that this also had been molested in an attempt to get it to fit better or simplify it. I dont find it that good that I can feel crimp connectors below the electrical tape.



So now i'd like to know what every connector on this harness if for, whats not needed, what is not original, etc...

1. DME Connector
2. ?
3. random white wire that we figured out grounded the fuel pump relay
4. 2 fat red wires. power
5. O2, Main, and fuel pump relays
6. Plenum control computer
7. 2 wires for ignition coil, 2 black wires are ground
8. ?
9. Alternator main power
10. Alternator exciter
11. Oil level Sensor
12. Starter
13. Starter
14. O2 sensor
15. Starter
16. X20 25Pin connector
17. Diagnostic Port
18. Hot Wire MAF
19. Air Temp
20. Manifold Air Pump thing
21. Charcoal canister purge valve
22. Oil Press
23. Oil Temp
24. Manifold Air pump thing
25. TPS
26. Exhaust pump system
27. No #27 because I can't count
28. Tach pulse sensor
29. CPS
30. Coolant
31. Coolant
32. IVC
33. Injectors

[litu]

Nice motor going E30 :)

[tonton]

nice projekt:up:
I think that I need to copy a few things

how thick that radiator is?
how yours orginal hood lock, it still works?

[fronton]

2. ABS or cruise control, can't see the connector clearly enough
3. possibly oil temp signal to cluster or aux gauge
4. yes, ground if it is a single thick wire
6. plenum actuator
7. yes, ignition coil
8. possibly e-box fan, hard to see the connector
14. yes, o2
21. yes, charcoal
26. doesn't matter, you don't connect it to anything.

If you block off the driver side of the the system, how will you loop the back of the cylinder header outlet into the system? That aside, without the core in play you'd have a significantly less efficient system without the ability to use the heater core to release heat, you'd have no cabin heat or a way to instantly help bring down engine temp and it is also more difficult to know when your system is bled.

[poopin04]

damn this looks great!

I wish I had time to come out Saturday for the install.I had a wake, then had to pick up last minute things for my race on Sunday, did the Zombie Race.

[The Dark Side of Will]

[ATTACH]70712[/ATTACH]

Basic diagram made of the coolant system. Not sure if im going to install the expansion tank on the passenger side yet. If I do i wont have to run some lines across the bay. I will not be using a heater core. It looks like in the original setup water came out of the exit of the water pump, labeled B, through the heater and into the back of the engine labeled A. Can I just block them or should I run a hose connecting them? From what I could see blocking them would be fine.

[ATTACH]70713[/ATTACH]

Because the thermostat is appears to be a recirculating design, you probably won't have any problems with extended warm-up time by removing the heater core circulation.

However, I don't think running without a heater or core is a good idea in a street car. You won't be able to defog your windshield, for example.
A couple of years ago, the heater core in my '92 E34 sprung a leak, so I looped the lines temporarily until I could tear the dash apart to replace it. I had to go on a 4 hour drive at night in early April to my new drill location in southern PA. Thank goodness for heated seats. That drive sucked, but would have been hypothermic without the seat heaters.

Limiting yourself to only being able to drive the car on bright sunny days with low humiditiy is... well... limiting.

[ttrousdell]

It Lives!!!!

[LJ851]

It Lives!!!!

Hot Damn !

[F34R]

Took you long enough Tom...not as long as Dana.

[Kevinl]

Wow I can't wait to see some more vids those itb's are so sexy

[The Dark Side of Will]

Make sure you only run it the minimum amount of time necessary to make sure your cooling, oil and electrical systems work before you take it out for a hard break-in

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

I've also corresponded with a GM engineer about break in procedures. He said that the hardest break in is the best. During dyno development of the Northstar, they'd put brand new engines on the dyno. The first thing these engines would see would be 250 degree coolant temps and 300 degree oil temps. They'd run wide open for dozens to hundreds of hours and look beautiful inside.

The hard break-in is definitely the best way to go.

[ttrousdell]

nice projekt:up:
I think that I need to copy a few things
how thick that radiator is?
how yours orginal hood lock, it still works?

Thank you. The radiator is 22.5"x12.5"x3". These demesions fit well. You may be able to get away with making the one end 13.5". There was no way to fit the radiator and the hood lock so it was cut out and added to the scrap pile. I will have to run hood pins.

If you block off the driver side of the the system, how will you loop the back of the cylinder header outlet into the system? That aside, without the core in play you'd have a significantly less efficient system without the ability to use the heater core to release heat, you'd have no cabin heat or a way to instantly help bring down engine temp and it is also more difficult to know when your system is bled.

The heater core has already been removed from the car. I dont intend to ever make this car a daily again so the inconveiniece of no heat or defogging will not be an issue. I decided to plug both the holes, one in the back of the head and the other at the outlet of the water pump. Yes i will lose the ablity of the heater core to help with cooling the engine but that is not its main function anyway. My radiator and fan should have the ablity to remove enough heat from the system without relying on the heater core. Maybe it might be harder to bleed. Ive never tried to bleed a car without one.

Took you long enough Tom...not as long as Dana.

Hahaha always a dick but in my defense I was waiting for parts for over a week.

The hard break-in is definitely the best way to go.

Thanks will. I was wondering what process I should follow for the break in. Ill give this a try. Going to run a 10-30W oil for the break in.

Plug for outlet of water pump. Similar one was used for the outlet in the back of the head.



So I don't have to run lines across the engine, Im planning on using this eta exp. tank on the passenger side of the car.



Under plenum mess. Using all new vacuum lines since the others were completely dry rotted.

[ttrousdell]

Unlike the M30B35 swap where I was simply able to use the M20B25 harness, this swap forced me to use the S38 harness and consequently repin the C101/X20 connector. It also didnt help the the harness was messed with so certain things had to be figured out that otherwise woulnt have been an issue. The diagram below is what I used to distinguish the pins on the e34 side of the connector. Note: C101 is the 20 Pin connector found on the e30 while the X20 is the 25 pin found on the e34/e36.



89' M20B25 C101

1. Alternator Charge - BU
2. Oil Level - GN/YL, BU/BK
3. Not Used
4. Cool. Temp - BR/VI
5. Oil Press - BR/GR, BK/BR
6. O2 Heater - GN/WT, GN/YL -12V
7. Ignition Coil - GN - 12V
8. Fuel Rate(econo) - WT/BK,YL/WT
9. Tach Signal - BK
10. Oil Level - BU, VI/GN
11. Inspection reset - WT/GN, WT/BU
12. Check Engine - GY,BR/BK
13. Fuel Relay - GN/VI,VI/RD 12V
14. Speedo- BK/WT,BU/YL
15. Unloader- BK/GN
16. SRS/Not used
17. ABS
18. Starter - BK/YL 12V
19. Not Used
20. Not Used

Repinned the connector to give it a nice stock look. Just match the wires that have the same function. Its that easy once you know what wire is for what.



In order to repin you will need the following...

• 20 x 61131376191 (Only really need about 16, 20 allow for mistakes)
• 2 x 61131376193 (for larger gauge wire)
• 2 x 61131376195 (for larger gauge wire)
• 1 x 12521707283 (C101 Black Plastic Connector)

The brains of the wiring operation, toointoxicated60. Id probably still be scratching my head trying to get this thing to start if it wasn't for him.



Sorting through the wiring. O2 heater, Main, and fuel pump relay shown. Altough we have most of the electical work figured out, we still cant get the fuel pump to run because the ECU is not grounding pin #3 thats connected to the fuel pump relay. Only when we ground it to the shock tower can we get the pump to turn on. I now know why they had the mysterious white wire coming out of the harness (ground wire).




Almost done...



Things to be done...Find remaining coolant hoses, Bleed brakes/clutch, Fuel pump wiring, Clean up harness, Mount coolant tank, get 12mm spacers because style 5s and UUC BBK will not fit.