Yoshi's build thread S52 on 1 bar... kinda

[shiboujin]

Still figuring the CEL out. But I figured I would take some engine bay shots. So much clean up to do but I'm happy with it so far.

[shiboujin]

I want to be able to should I want to. I'd like to drive it to work now and again. But yes. Therefore, changes must be made.

[VAE30FTW]

You're going to DD it?

[shiboujin]

So triumphs and setbacks. Drove the car around today. First go at it there was a massive boost leak that caused the car to sputter and buck like a mofo. Fixed that and went back out. Car still has a CEL that I need to diagnose. I can't do the "stomp test" for some reason. I think the TPS might be bad? The open dump pipe is getting on my nerves. I hit full boost so quickly that it dumps basically all the time. I don't like to disturb my neighbors.

Car sat at 180 the whole time. Probably due to the lack of a hood and front bumper. I foresee tinkering until the car is prefect. I'm not going to push it until I'm absolutely sure things will work out fine. The goal is Daily Driver if I wanted to. I think one of my next steps is to weld the dump pipe back into the exhaust and clean up the interior of the car.

Ironically, the car feels exactly like it did with the 2.5 liter an holset. But it is tossing a CEL and I'm in a 25mph neighborhood. Got plenty of stares lol. Feels good to have the car driving again but I'm not happy yet. I'm simply relieved.

Todo list:
oil change
clean whole bottom of car and check for leaks
tighten all bolts.
fix leaky sunroof
boost leak check
replace tps
find good knock sensors ($54 each new!)
make interior nice and DDable.

I hope this whole thing is coming to a close soon. When I kill the CEL and the car runs great, it goes back to moore for a final dyno.

[shiboujin]

Lalaa Finally got all my parts in and got everything tigged that needed tigging. Didn't realize the technica kit required rewiring of the stock connector but it's all good. If anyone cares when they do a silver label 413, get chip, cut green (or gray/violet) wire to pin 66 on the ECU. The car starts and revs like factory now. The MS wouldn't rev worth a crap until it warmed up. I'm just happy I don't have to tune it :)

Stuff left to do:
put fan back on
cut out stock air box hanger thingy
Figure out better way for the MAF/BOV/ICV pipe to mount
hose clamp on ICV is missing
hook back up stock wire to tach and get that ish working
Wire back up gauges
Close up TB some so idle goes down
Hook up boost gauge
Clean up wiring stuff
Mount ECU somewhere


long term:
fix leaky sunroof
Recheck ALL bolts
wire LC1 and gauge so I can run that instead of a stock O2

I dunno I'll think of more later. The goal is to button up enough stuff tomorrow/monday to take a drive around the neighborhood. Then I'll check for leaky fluids and such. Once it's DDable, It goes back to the dyno.


I worked out in the rain today. This is how the car is now. Motor is covered in rags and a tarp over the front. I just don't want things to get wet until I can finalize everything. Shouldn't be necessary at this point but with the VC not bolted down this past week, I decided this was the best way to be cautious.


So many less wires now! You can see some of the left over LC1 wiring that is still there.


So going to clean all of this up soon. Hasn't been a priority since it has nothing to do with the car physically running :(. Hopefully, after a clean dyno run, I can concentrate on these things.

[shiboujin]

[shiboujin]

You sir are a genius !

[10Toes]

I stopped after I put the intake cam tray back in and got my finger lodged into the space between the head and the intake cam tray. If you know anything about the cam trays, you have to do it real quick as the hydraulic lifters will fall out. You can't put them in the head first cuz the cam tray holds them in. I am now missing a chunk of finger nail. I decided to call it quits after that lol... I'll try to finish monday. Maybe dip out of work early to give myself more time.

Last time I did cams I just put a long zip tie around all the lifters in with the tray upsidedown, then I flipped it over and set it in place then cut the zip tie and removed them. No cut fingers.

[shiboujin]

O_o GRAWR Why won't it work?!

[shiboujin]

Tried to knock out the HG yesterday. I lost one of the locating dowels on the block and found it after I had put the head back on. Ah well. The old HG was blown on cyl 6 to the coolant port. Like very obvious blow. A chunk was missing. It was ~90F out and I was working in their back parking lot. :(

I stopped after I put the intake cam tray back in and got my finger lodged into the space between the head and the intake cam tray. If you know anything about the cam trays, you have to do it real quick as the hydraulic lifters will fall out. You can't put them in the head first cuz the cam tray holds them in. I am now missing a chunk of finger nail. I decided to call it quits after that lol... I'll try to finish monday. Maybe dip out of work early to give myself more time.

[shiboujin]

spark blowout. motor won't rev past that point.

[LJ851]

OK, i see it now, what about the 18 to 1 AFR's on the new engine, though? The power drops off right when the AFR goes through the roof

[shiboujin]

the one that goes to 6500 is my old motor. 2.5 non vanos with the holset.

The new motor is a 3.2 liter with some top end work done. Dual intake cams.

[LJ851]

You think the 18 to 1 AFR might be connected the the drop in power?

That dyno chart looks funny to me, how come the torque curves rev to 6500 and the HP curves stop at 4500?

Sorry about your HG.

[shiboujin]

good news. I have a dyno plot. Bad news, it lifted the head. My tuner thinks the dual intake cam setup is creating super fast spool up but super high cylinder pressures. He thinks that's why it won't rev past where it does meow. Sooo gonna do the head gasket, maybe some better ARPs and stock exhaust cam I go. We could retard the timing on the exhaust cam but I'm too lazy for that. Seems fool proof to do the stock exhaust cam.