The complete repair, rebuild, repaint, and v8 swap of my early model sedan

[Garageaholic]

Wow. Amazing progress. Yeah I think it's may 20. My project will be cutting it close, but like you, Garey is giving me a hard time too!

Any update on using the 1/4" line on the e34 master cylinder? It's like Jenga trying to piece part the brake system to find suitable adapters.

[JGood]

Wow. Amazing progress. Yeah I think it's may 20. My project will be cutting it close, but like you, Garey is giving me a hard time too!

Any update on using the 1/4" line on the e34 master cylinder? It's like Jenga trying to piece part the brake system to find suitable adapters.

I don't know man, brake lines are like some sort of industry secret to me, I can't get the info I need from anyone. And lord knows you can't discuss it in the m60 forum...


What I need to know, is can you take a 3/16" hard line, put a 3/16" 12x1.0 bubble flare tube nut on it, and thread it into the master cylinder, which was designed for a 12x1.0 bubble flare tube nut, but on a 1/4" line?

The diameter of the bubble flare on the 1/4" line is noticeably bigger then the bubble flare on the 3/16" line, so I'm not sure if this is acceptable or not.


I have yet to find the proper bubble flare adapters to go from 12x1 to 10x1, I can only find inverted flare, so that seemingly easy solution appears to be out. I'm also not sure how they work as far as sealing...

[bmwmech1]

I don't know man, brake lines are like some sort of industry secret to me, I can't get the info I need from anyone. And lord knows you can't discuss it in the m60 forum...


What I need to know, is can you take a 3/16" hard line, put a 3/16" 12x1.0 bubble flare tube nut on it, and thread it into the master cylinder, which was designed for a 12x1.0 bubble flare tube nut, but on a 1/4" line?

The diameter of the bubble flare on the 1/4" line is noticeably bigger then the bubble flare on the 3/16" line, so I'm not sure if this is acceptable or not.


I have yet to find the proper bubble flare adapters to go from 12x1 to 10x1, I can only find inverted flare, so that seemingly easy solution appears to be out. I'm also not sure how they work as far as sealing...

Yes, you should be able to put the 3/16" 12X1.0 fitting on the smaller line and thread it into the MC. Obviously, the larger line will have a larger ball, but we're talking about 1/16" in diameter difference, which is pretty slight. If you can find a 12X1.0 3/16" line fitting, use it and be done with it. Your other option would be to look for a T with a 12X1.0 inlet and 2 10X1.0 outlets, if you can't find the right adaptors...

Garey

[JGood]

Yes, you should be able to put the 3/16" 12X1.0 fitting on the smaller line and thread it into the MC. Obviously, the larger line will have a larger ball, but we're talking about 1/16" in diameter difference, which is pretty slight. If you can find a 12X1.0 3/16" line fitting, use it and be done with it. Your other option would be to look for a T with a 12X1.0 inlet and 2 10X1.0 outlets, if you can't find the right adaptors...

Garey

Just as you answered that, I found a guy on another forum asking the same question in a roundabout way, and another member stated what you did - that you can indeed use a 3/16" line on the M/C that originally had a 1/4" line going into it, the only thing that matters is the flare type and thread of the tube nut.

Problem solved, thanks!


Front brakes:
10x1.0 tube nut on 3/16" line -> T fitting -> front brakes

Rear:
12x1.0 tube nut on 3/16" line, 10x1.0 tube nut on other end -> rear brake pressure regulator -> rear brake line.


The 12x1.0mm 3/16" tube nut can be found on the factory e34 front M/C line, where it goes into the ABS unit. Or at Autozone in a 5 pack for $2.99.

[Garageaholic]

I'm glad you figured it out guys, I just ordered some parts this afternoon that looks like it will fit.

First picture, left side
From: M12x1.00 Master Cylinder output

Look at the 2nd pic from the right to the left:
to: Pipe 3/16" tube, M12x1.00 bubble flare (blue) to M10x1.00 single flare (gold)
to: small adapter single flare on each side (small gold piece)
to: 3/16" M10x1.00 single flare tube to M10x1.00 bubble flare tube.

eventually to a bubble flare adapter that you can now adapt to wherever you want it in the car

Sorry the pic is so small, but you see what I'm talking about:

[JGood]

Welp, that's one way to do it if you don't have the tools to make your own lines, lol! I'd be in the same boat, but I'm borrowing my buddies brake flaring tool, cutter, and benders. These things are so nice. But $$$.

[JGood]

Not much of an update today. Did more spending then working. I ordered a Clutchmasters FX100 clutch kit, for the m52 application. Also ordered a Magnaflow 12468, dual 2.5" in/dual 2.5" out muffler.

I stumbled across an interesting site... Autoplicity.com. It doesn't appear to be very well known, but their prices are amazing. I did some searching, a few people on various forums had good experiences, so I am giving them a try. They have the clutch kit for $100 cheaper then anywhere else I could find it, and the muffler for about $15 cheaper then anywhere else. And shipping was a whopping $12 total!

Also ordered a set of 215/40/17 and 235/40/17 Sumitomo HTRZ II tires. I need to get these mounted and get the car at it's target ride height so I can work the fenders if needed, before I paint the car.


All I did today was move the washer fluid reservoir back about 2" from it's stock location. This should provide the necessary clearance for the big air filter.

[JGood]

Nothing really exciting lately. Have been working hard to get all of the body work done, and finish up mocking up the engine bay so I can get all the welding done, then take it all back apart and paint it. Still lots of work to do. Here's a few random pictures:


Oil cooler/remote filter setup finally finished. Installed a VDO sender up by the cooler.








Modified throttle linkage:





Test fitting the 235's. They fit great!





Engine bay shots:

[Garageaholic]

Justin,

I'm really surprised that you can fit the wiper fluid reservoir if you're using a stock air intake.... With that being said, I'm assuming you're using some aftermarket cone filter?

[JGood]

Yeah, I'm just going to use a cone filter. ECS is dicking me around with the intake boot, I don't have it in my possession yet, but I took a few measurements and I think it will fit. If not, I'll move shit around til it does!

[jaywood]

Nice progress! That engine looks like it was meant to be in there.

Wheel fitment looks spot on as well. Are you going to roll the fenders at all? Looks pretty tight.

[JGood]

Thanks! Already done, that side just needs re-rolled. I had to unroll it to seperate the wheel housing from the quarter panel.

[MR 325]

Love that cooler and filter setup.

[JGood]

Been a while since I've updated this. It's been a disaster lately. Currently sipping on my third Jack and Coke as opposed to working in the garage, because I need a break. If you're looking for a cool update or anything other then useless ranting, do not continue to read.

The engine bay is basically finished. The engine was fully mocked up, everything was routed properly, the details were all worked out. So I yanked the engine and began prepping the engine bay for paint. Meanwhile, my good friend who is doing most of the body work and teaching me how to do it as we go, was working on prepping the rest of the car. Filling all the dents, sanding, etc...

We started on the driver front door. This was a replacement door, as the original had too many dents. The replacement door had two dings and some rust at the bottom. So we spent 10 hours or so cleaning, repairing, hammering, filling, sanding, etc... getting this door perfect. It was ready to be wiped down and painted basically. Then, it fell off the stand, and the bottom corners smashed in, rendering the door useless and all that work wasted.

The next day (yesterday) I met up with a guy who had dent-free fenders for sale, to replace my not so perfect fenders. I got them, handed over the money without taking a close enough look at them. After washing and installing them today, I now see that both are basically unusable. Not so dent-free. My originals are actually better. $130 down the drain.

So today I venture to the junkyard to retrieve a driver side front door, and possibly a set of fenders. I go to the biggest junkyard in PA, which has on average about 3 billion e30's at any given time. Of course, not a single sedan. Nor a straight fender. Drive another hour to another junkyard, same deal.

Call up Chris at CR's Wholesale, he has some. Should have went there to start. Drive 2 hours to get there from where I was, tell him I need a drivers front sedan door, he finds it, shows it to me, and I buy it. Get home (300 miles and $90 worth of gas later), clean the door, swap over the hinges, mount the door. Then I tried to close the door. It was only then that I realized it's about 6" too long, BECAUSE IT'S AN F'IN COUPE DOOR. IT DOESN'T FIT MY SEDAN BECAUSE IT'S NOT A SEDAN DOOR. THEY AREN'T INTERCHANGEABLE, BTf'nW. How do you even look at a coupe door and not realize it's not a sedan door? I don't know how, but I did it. That's my sign, it's time to take a break from the car.

Unfortunately, I'm on an 11 day vacation from work, that I planned in order to get some major work done on the car. Bad timing.

[Farbin Kaiber]

Don't worry, take a breather, you'll get her.