Originally posted by dirty30
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The complete repair, rebuild, repaint, and v8 swap of my early model sedan
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Originally posted by JGood View PostAnd I have no idea what "ignition secondary monitor" means. I can't find any info on it anywhere.
Maybe you'll luck out and discover what it is, my car still throws that code even after new coils, boots, ground wires, etc. I have my fingers crossed you can figure out what it is since I've given up.
I can't remember but have you replaced the crank position sensor? I had a few of those Ignition coil codes when my CPS was starting to go and the CPS code only occasionally would show up. Eventually replaced the CPS and all the ignition coil codes disappears as well, minus the "ignition secondary monitor" code that just won't go away.
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Originally posted by kts View PostI've had that same code forever on my E36. I also was unable to find really any information on it. Tried a lot of things and replaced a ton of ignition parts on the car and that code still shows up on my E36. In the end I just started ignoring it, it doesn't seem to be affecting performance or drivability.
Maybe you'll luck out and discover what it is, my car still throws that code even after new coils, boots, ground wires, etc. I have my fingers crossed you can figure out what it is since I've given up.
I can't remember but have you replaced the crank position sensor? I had a few of those Ignition coil codes when my CPS was starting to go and the CPS code only occasionally would show up. Eventually replaced the CPS and all the ignition coil codes disappears as well, minus the "ignition secondary monitor" code that just won't go away.
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Could be worth checking out with an ohmmeter to see if the new one is within spec. Being new and an OEM part I would think it's fine, perhaps its something else causing those Ignition coil codes. Have a spare DME to try as well? (apologies if you have already tried swapping DMEs, I know you did a lot of debug work and at the moment don't have time to search through your thread to see what you have tried.)
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I think I figured it out. Check this out:
Originally posted by BMW DocumentIgnition circuit monitoring
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The task of ignition circuit monitoring is to detect misfiring cylinder-selectively (self-diagnosis) and to prevent damage to the catalytic converter. Exhaust gas emissions cannot deteriorate because fuel injection is cut out for the cylinder concerned.
The secondary circuit monitoring feature operates with a "shunt" (resistor in the common secondary ground line of the 8 ignition coils). The voltage progression at the shunt is transferred to the control unit for each cylinder.
If after successful ignition (cylinder-selective primary circuit monitoring ok.) the threshold voltage for misfiring detection (5V) is not reached, the defect code is set, the defect lamp activated (US models only) and the relevant injection output stage is switched off.
That resister they are talking about, I cut that out. It was located in the wire harness, just a small rectangle on one of the ground wires. I did this because on my friends m50 e34, that resister cracked in half, and caused the car to run terribly, and I wired around it on his car. It ran fine after that. I thought maybe this was the cause of my problems, so I cut it out and spliced the ground wire back together. I did this late last year right before tearing my car apart, and it didn't make a difference, but I never wired it back in because it didn't seem to cause any ill effects. I realize now that was a stupid thing to do, BMW wouldn't have put it there if it wasn't needed.
I bet that's why I'm getting these codes, because the monitoring system isn't functioning properly without it. So, now I need to wire one back in. Doh!
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:) Get on it !Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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NICE find. a quick question for you guys. wouldn't an ODBII setup provide more diagnostic info in a case like this? I've read Justin's thread a few times now and know all the trouble he's gone through sorting things.
not trying to cause trouble here btw. just trying to learn something.I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
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Originally posted by bradnic View PostNICE find. a quick question for you guys. wouldn't an ODBII setup provide more diagnostic info in a case like this? I've read Justin's thread a few times now and know all the trouble he's gone through sorting things.
not trying to cause trouble here btw. just trying to learn something.
It's really not a big deal, nobody else has these problems, this is just my luck. I spent 3 years battling Vanos problems on my m50 swap, problems that nobody else in the world has. That's just my life, haha.
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Well, I wired the ground wire resister back in, and all of the coil pack codes went away. But I still have the "secondary ignition monitor" code.
On top of that, none of the work I did this winter actually fixed anything. The hesitation is still there with the stock DME, and the stalling issue is still there with the DME that has the DUDMD chip in it. The only thing I haven't tried yet is a factory 6-speed 540i DME. That may be the next step. Maybe the tune on the DUDMD chip isn't agreeing with my engine, and maybe the automatic chip is causing the hesitation (maybe it's tuned to give slow throttle response in order to not damage the trans?) Just a thought. I'll need to think it over and see if I can find an e34 540i manual trans DME in the mean time.
I had a friend paint my strut bar, and repaint my rear wing since it cracks in it. Everything turned out great! Just had to do a little trimming of the engine cover.
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Originally posted by JGood View PostThe only real benefit of m62's is the extra .4 liters of displacement and the OBD-II diagnostics. Everything else kinda sucks.
I've got a M62TU on the way though - it was alot cheaper than several M60B40s I was looking at, probably because everyone wants the M60s. I'm also an electrical geek so not ready to give up on the EWS just yet. The drive by wire throttle's obviously a major concern. A functioning VANOS is appealing for the flatter torque curve and better fuel economy despite that added displacement. I'm not doing my swap for max hp.
So guess I'll probably end up OBD-1 in the end, but not ready to give up yet.I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
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Absolutely gorgeous Justin. Incredibly beautiful car.I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
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Originally posted by slammin.e28guy View PostWith EWS just get the coded key and attach the EWS chip from the key to the sensor ring. I have a friend who is running around with an EWS M60 in his e34 wagon like this. Reason being is I gave him a Turner chipped EWS ECU.
</threadjack>I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
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