Kamotors E30-Turbo to ITB M20

[LowR3V'in]

Vent the tank to atmosphere.
Let the hose down under the car somewhere.

Also I think I used an m20 slave and an m10 as well because it was aluminum.
tcd stg3 feels almost stock try that out it'll do 500tq.

[kamotors]

Vent the tank to atmosphere.
Let the hose down under the car somewhere.

Also I think I used an m20 slave and an m10 as well because it was aluminum.
tcd stg3 feels almost stock try that out it'll do 500tq.

thats how its like, it goes to charcoal canister then that vents to under the vehicle. The tank is getting very hot, fuel pump starts whining and it starts puking. If I open the gas cap I get massive hot fumes pouring out, if I close the cap and wait 1minute I can repeat until the tank cools. My exhaust is like 2 feet away from the tank but I'm guessing at freeway speeds its just blowing right into the tank or something.

[efficient]

Swap the m20 back and call it a day lol

[kamotors]

i know lol^

[Bullet Ride]

thats how its like, it goes to charcoal canister then that vents to under the vehicle. The tank is getting very hot, fuel pump starts whining and it starts puking. If I open the gas cap I get massive hot fumes pouring out, if I close the cap and wait 1minute I can repeat until the tank cools. My exhaust is like 2 feet away from the tank but I'm guessing at freeway speeds its just blowing right into the tank or something.

Isn't there a check valve on the line that goes from the intake manifold to the canister? If that fails is it possible to somehow pressurize the gas tank with boost?

[RagtopE30]

I am glad I already did my swap because reading about how yours is kicking your butt I may have never done mine! Lol

[LowR3V'in]

Na, his stuff is unique I've never even read about stuff he's posting about because of
using an m30.

[kamotors]

Isn't there a check valve on the line that goes from the intake manifold to the canister? If that fails is it possible to somehow pressurize the gas tank with boost?

removed the check valve when I did the swap, gas tank is vented to atmosphere(always has been for me) but issue just started, pretty sure megasquirt cant control that check valve anyway

[FLG]

My exhaust is quite close to my tank and I've never had an issue.

[kamotors]

well even more annoyed now, Pulled the trans this morning and everything looks prefect, disk installed correctly(its physically impossible to install backwards), flywheels, pressure plate all look normal.


The only thing I can think of is maybe the OEM clutch fork arms is bad as the Throw out bearing does not snap in tight its a pretty loose fit. I have an MTC clutch fork lever and the TOB snaps in very tight actually.


Is it possible during installation my TOB rotated 90degrees? which make it sit in further and would seem to cause this issue.

I have no clue why it wasn't working when it was all installed 100% correct.

[kamotors]

found the problem. Clutch disk seems to be very warped.

[kamotors]

video of how bad its warped.

[ForcedFirebird]

You probably can get it in gear with a blip because you are rev matching, not because the clutch is slipping - this is how you shift in an endurance race when the clutch hydraulics give way.

I have run into your same issue several times on various BMW's (from stock to swapped to mismatched parts), and had to remove the trans in all situations. Most of the time it's a customer that changed the clutch themselves and we had to figure out what went wrong. If you have to increase the idle to get it to slip, there's definitely something wrong.

Clutch disk bent

Clutch disk backwards

Shift fork slightly bent

Incorrect disk size for flywheel (he had a 328 someone swapped a Getrag in, ordered a 328 clutch kit)

Worn pivot ball

Wrong slave

You might be able to extend the slave rod a little and band-aid the problem, but if you go too far, the fork will rub the rivets in the pressure plate. The rod just pulls out of the slave, weld some material on the end.

The problem "may" go away with wear, but the clutch doesn't lose much thickness when it is considered worn, and will significantly decrease the life of your clutch.

found the problem. Clutch disk seems to be very warped.

That's the number one culprit in my experience, and why it's first on the list.

[kamotors]

well I'm happy Its something somewhat simple, and thanks for the help!

I got the driveshaft, exhaust and trans pulled in under 3 hours!
But for those of you in positin 2 and 3 its nearly impossible to remove the upper most bellhousing bolt on the M30 swap as it sits in the firewall ABOVE teh trans tunnel I had to put a jack between the trans tunnel and trans to pry the trans down and remove that bolt, HUGE PAIN. will be denting up the tunnel before that goes back in.

[kamotors]

can I keep the flywheel as is? or does it already need a resurface with less than 300miles on it?
[IMG]IMG_1229 by kamotors@y, on Flickr[/IMG]