Kamotors E30-Turbo to ITB M20

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  • kamotors
    replied
    Originally posted by imjusthere
    What's the reliability like with ITBs? My e30 is my DD. Would this be a good idea or not?
    Same as stock, your not putting any additional stress that would make it unreliable. But if you need smog w/ visual inspection i don't think it'll fly lol.

    Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

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  • DirtyTh3rty
    replied
    Good stuff Kam glad to see old red can get some attention again!

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  • imjusthere
    replied
    What's the reliability like with ITBs? My e30 is my DD. Would this be a good idea or not?

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  • LJ851
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
    Just fit a larger hose over the smaller one, as long as you aren't losing vacuum, size won't matter.


    Yes, done this a million times.

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  • whodwho
    replied
    I used an old UNI-SYNC from my VW dual Weber days, ~ $20 on ebay

    The major difference in the style you use is if the plenum is on or off

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Just fit a larger hose over the smaller one, as long as you aren't losing vacuum, size won't matter. That sync tool is available on eBay for ~$50. I use that style.

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  • kamotors
    replied
    I dont mind at all, this is the kind information that should be shared and posted.



    I need to get some distilled water, oil, and I'm wanting to try this kind of sync. tool but summit racing nor anywhere local seems to have one.


    The newer rhd setup has huge vacuum lines for the supplied vacuum block setup so my motion pro sync tool would need huge adapters to work. The new vac line barbs are like fuel line sized now and the motion pro tool uses the smallest vac line.

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  • SkiFree
    replied
    Once you go OVER an 84mm stroke with a 135mm rod length the wrist pin on a custom piston encroaches the lower oil control ring necessitating support rings. This creates an extra gap for oil to get by along with becoming a point of friction/wear during warmup. In short, power is gained but longevity decreases. Additionally that wear/blowby is exacerbated when using 2618 alloy pistons.

    Going 3.0L and larger is fine on a race car or a very aggressive street car, it just will not last nearly as long as a proper 2.5-2.9L (when I say proper I mean NOT using ghetto-machined stock cast pistons or the use of 130mm rods). If you are shooting for high numbers and don't mind building a new engine in 50k then go big.

    I've got a write up on it if you shoot me a PM (it's a word document). Since I don't work at IE IE anymore, I don't feel like a cheesy sales guy in saying this was the premise behind designing the IE/MahleMotorsport 2.9L street-stroker pistons.

    Sorry Kameron, but to your regularly scheduled program. Great to see you back with an ITB setup.
    Last edited by SkiFree; 05-17-2016, 08:57 AM.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    My view is, as long as you use the proper piston shape, you are ahead of the game on an 885 head. This was done because parts were in house ready to go aside from some balancing. That, he just dumped a ton of money in the car, and we discovered his expensive head was cracked, so that had to be replaced. Long story, I made a thread about it.

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  • 318aye
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
    2.8 with a proper top end and 272 will make about 214whp/202wtq ;)
    [threadjack] Is there a reason the 2.8 route seems heavily favored over the 3.0 route? Is there something I'm missing aside from custom pistons that makes the cost astronomically higher? I feel like the 800 bucks to get whatever compression ratio you want and use 135mm rods would be worth it. Open question to you, digger and whoever else. [/threadjack]

    sorry kam.

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  • bradnic
    replied
    holy cr@p is that true? need to talk John..

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by 318aye
    I'm very interested in what the setup will make with a 274, more cubes and some top end porting ;D
    2.8 with a proper top end and 272 will make about 214whp/202wtq ;)

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  • 318aye
    replied
    Originally posted by kamotors
    It's all there and working has that little center bracket that holds it

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    Ahhh I see it now. In the pictures it just looks like it's sitting there. Good stuff!

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  • kamotors
    replied
    Originally posted by 318aye
    I think I saw it on the 24V stuff...how will you mount the grommet for the cable?
    It's all there and working has that little center bracket that holds it

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  • 318aye
    replied
    Originally posted by kamotors
    Ya it's a redesigned linkage much easier to setup and has a better return spring setup

    Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
    I think I saw it on the 24V stuff...how will you mount the grommet for the cable?

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