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OK so got the itbs synced at about 1500rpms at full operating temp. For some reason one cylinder pulls less vacuum, but only bring able to adjust in pairs means I can do anything about it.
Made a quick video, no longer sounds like a helicopter, has a normal lopey idle now.
Started right up! still running speed density(turbo tune) as I havent even got it out of the garage yet. So its on a cyclical map signal and idle was way high. Got idle sorted out but still need to tune it to run alpha N
Is there a reason the 2.8 route seems heavily favored over the 3.0 route? Is there something I'm missing aside from custom pistons that makes the cost astronomically higher? I feel like the 800 bucks to get whatever compression ratio you want and use 135mm rods would be worth it. Open question to you, digger and whoever else.
sorry kam.
budget 2.8 vs off the shelf pistons
It’s just cheaper with OEM bits, it may be cobbled together a bit but it works and you aren’t giving up massively for a basic street build but you have more options with custom pistons.
Ultimately if you can afford custom off the shelf or true custom then it kind of makes sense you will definitely see some benefits e.g. , slightly more compression, more PtoV so more choice of cam profiles, slight increase in capacity and able to get bores oversized, thinner rings and or different materials, slightly lighter pistons, 4% less side loading due to 5mm longer rods so slightly less friction and wear, More tolerance to bad tune, better choice of rods, bragging rights, cool looking parts…. it’s hard to quantify some things as they are subtle and frankly basically irrelevant in the grand scheme with the goal of making more power or torque. Its upto the individual if they see enough benefits.
Don’t expect night and day differences unless you’re designing something for a different type of goal, e.g. a high rpm kind of race engine you probably wouldn’t go for short rod, cast piston but on this kind of engine its not just going to be the piston and rod that differ the whole engine would be different.
Found the most 80's zender e30 spoiler lol. Still in original rubber which is cool just needs some prep and paint. Not sure whether I'll sell it or keep it though. It's a bit on the bulky side, but it'll be a fun restoration project and would look cool on a more 80s themed e30
The new tps bracket is nice and I'm using an OEM Bosch m50 tps, so shouldn't have any issues.
Also car would of been running today but then I noticed this lol. Must of slipped out then when tightening it I crusher it into 2 pieces lol
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What's the reliability like with ITBs? My e30 is my DD. Would this be a good idea or not?
I’ve been using RHD ITB’s for 2.5years (Airbox for 2 years) the only issues I recall having had are with TPS’s or not setting up and balancing linkages correctly because I screwed up or forgot to tighten something properly so not an issue with the throttles. He uses a different TPS with the kit these days which ive never tried but I bought a Penny and Giles TPS and have never looked back as even new OEM sensors seemed to give odd behavior.
I got one of the early kits so I had to add a return spring but that’s included now. I also found it a little awkward to access the idle screw adjuster and balance grub screws but I modified my tools so overcome this and I keep them in the trunk in my extra toolkit so I don’t lose them.
Probably one short coming over other throttle kits is not being able to individually adjust each throttle as they adjust in pairs only, no matter how good the machining is there is always differences due to individual variations in the engine itself so you can’t get it 100% balanced. However it still idles very well and part throttle over single throttle is 10x better. I can easily coast in 3rd at idle speed and pullout of tight corners without any hiccups something that was impossible on the single throttle manifold no matter how good the tune was.
As for whether its a good idea that would depend on your goal(s)
Keep in mind that you are adding more moving parts to the system. Although reliability may not suffer, there are more things that you will have to keep an eye on in order to maintain the reliability moving forward.
I would agree with this more than "same as stock". Am I afraid to drive the car 5+ hours away? Nah. Do I travel with the necessary allen keys to disassemble the throttle linkage and AAA? Yeah.
The only thing that degraded for me over the last 5000 miles was the TPS, and that's been solid for about 6 months.
It requires some attention, but nothing out of the norm for a modified 80's car.
Same as stock, your not putting any additional stress that would make it unreliable. But if you need smog w/ visual inspection i don't think it'll fly lol.
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Keep in mind that you are adding more moving parts to the system. Although reliability may not suffer, there are more things that you will have to keep an eye on in order to maintain the reliability moving forward.
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