316 superlite

[petrolhead]

Pistons & head are still in the machinist's work list..
Local speed shop hasn't delivered the head gasket or shock adjustment tools I've ordered a while back.. :roll: So, not much going on.

Started fiddling with the engine management wiring. I'll hook everything up to the original fuse/relay box.

Need to add a main power relay, and two relays for pumps, injectors, sensors etc. Renewing wires from end to end, not cutting/connecting the old wires will be neater and less prone to have bad connections.






I'm guessing those original S14B20 injectors will do just fine, after all with 3,0 bar they're good for atleast the 192 hp that the 320iS had. Whereas my regulator is 3,5 bar +-vacuum.


NOS crank rear end flange seals.. Probably older than me :D


Conrod wrist pin bushes, timingchain cover seals, crank seal (pulley side), valve stem seals. All from the dealership, not even that expensive.


Luckily, that crank needle bearing fits the crank (6 bolt 1966 M10 crank) and the 262 CR Getrag's "clutch axle". Wasn't quite sure about that, browsing the parts catalogue. Ofcourse the correct installing depth is a bit of a question mark.



Fabricated a ground cable and a battery tray. "Both work in progress"



Smallest car battery that the local parts store had. Not too heavy and a reasonable price




Throttle body adapter still work in progress.. Should have just paid some CNC-guy to do it. Oh well, might as well finish it with the tools I have

[petrolhead]

Main fuse/cable shoe:

Probably a smaller than 500 A fuse would do. The smaller the better ofcourse. I bought 2 metres of 35mm2 and 20mm2 copper coated aluminium cable for the main power cables.

A little side project: Is it possible to combine an ix's viscous diff and a 4,27:1 ratio? I'm about to find out.

[petrolhead]

If all doesn't fail, the car will be taken to the paint shop come January. Since none of you have probably seen VW's LJ1B color:







A little something many people have never seen on their E30s.. 4 cylinder cars sold to nordic countries had an electric water pump feeding coolant to the heater core. Delete relays and wiring sets, massive weight reduction :D :P



I will have an electric pump but it'll be for pumping water through a oil<->coolant heat exchanger and obviously controlled differently.

[Maikkeli]

It's coming along nicely 8)

Btw, where did you get that mainfuse/cableshoe thingy? Looks like something i could use in my own cars.

[litu]

This is totally interesting project :)

[petrolhead]

It's coming along nicely 8)

Btw, where did you get that mainfuse/cableshoe thingy? Looks like something i could use in my own cars.

Donated by a friend. I can ask where he got it from. I understand they like to equip RVs and cars with fancy hifi-shit with one of those.
Edit: Search Ebay for "fused battery terminal" or something like that.

Got my stuff back. Not sure if I mentioned it, but the combustion chambers couldn't be opened enough for the domes without hitting valve seats. So, both dome and chamber were machined.





Side project, the 18iS/ix diff, cover now somewhat cleaned up. Sort of

[petrolhead]

A few uncertainties, but I calculated that compression ratio should be 12,2-12,8:1. I'll call it 12,5:1 :D. My estimate was not far off. I was only now able to find out, when everything's machined so I could really cc the head and pistons.

Finally, head gasket arrived. 0,066" thick with 91mm hole.

[Skarpa]

Do you plan to run the engine with 98E or E85?

[petrolhead]

Do you plan to run the engine with 98E or E85?

98E5, its available everywhere. It'll be a road car that even my wife could drive or fill up. Trust me, I HAVE been thinking about that compression ratio. With M10, high compression is not a bad problem to have. Normally people have to machine the shit out of everything to get even 12:1.. My deck & head height are close to stock which is good for a number of reasons. Secondly, with that head the actual cylinder filling will never be what it would be with 16 valves. So the actual compression pressure will be lower. Another thing to keep in mind is that my cam closes inlet ~76 degrees ABDC, so that brings dynamic compresssion ratio way down.
On a 16 valve engine, 300 deg cams and 12,5:1 would be doomsday/all out racecar-stuff.

Tonight I actually measured rest of the combustion chambers, doing it properly this time. All 61-62cc. I'll come up with some clever shaping, that'll ofcourse bring down the compression a bit.




This is now ready to receive new internals 'n stuff:

[petrolhead]

To continue my spark ignited rant.. I'm probably looking at a bit over 0,7mm piston to head clearance at the edges. That should be good for burning and knock sensitivity.

[Bearmw]

I appreciate the knowledge being shared.

[petrolhead]

I appreciate the knowledge being shared.

If my fiddling serves as info source, you're quite welcome :D. Half the time I don't even know what I'm doing, just coming up with shit as I go.


Only way I could think of to accurately cc the piston dome:


The gasket's so thick I'm starting to worry about weight distribution :D :P

[petrolhead]

Something..
Replaced the crank end bearing

Clean out 48 year old vaseline, apply some new, press in a new bearing


New crank rear end seal and flange..


Flywheel with new bolts


Had no centering tool on hand but I think it's pretty OK

Years ago I had the flywheel lightened then balanced with the clutch assembly. It can only be installed in the position they were in, when they were balanced.

Test fitting the new roof lining

[petrolhead]

Does anyone have ideas about how to attach the front edge of that roof lining? Normally it would go under the windscreen seal but, alas, I have an M3 screen.. Best I've come up with so far is this:

I've used that in other applications, it holds surprisingly strong. But I am open to suggestions.

[petrolhead]

It's -24 C outside, I decided to sandblast some rust off the doors.
That's ~-11 Fahrenheit in your money. :) Pressure hoses went kinda stiff and the water separator wanted to freeze over :/
Passenger side lock cylinder will be deleted as well as the protective thingies that run on the side of the doors. I don't know what they're called in english.

I told the paint shop people I'd be bringing in the car before the end of the month.
Pic: few connectors.. for radiator fan, other pair for the engine wiring harness. Easier if I can assemble everything to engine and plug in just one or two connector once the engine's in the car.