what are you going to do about the hood latch cable? I was stairing at it today and I dont think it will reach if it goes outside the fender.
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1991 318is M52 / Shaved bay / Wire tuck / Air Ride / NOW PAINTED!!
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Originally posted by ZekeTheSneak View Postwhat are you going to do about the hood latch cable? I was stairing at it today and I dont think it will reach if it goes outside the fender.
Keep following and when I get to that point I'll surely post it.
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Originally posted by mtlbloodshot View PostI dont know if this what you mean by splicing brake lines together but this is the way I'm setting up my lines.
Originally, the E30 (I'm sure you know this) has one brake line going towards the rear and then splitting to each rear wheel with a T FITTING.
Coming out of my AUDI MC on the booster, I have two exits or two feeds. I passed two separate lines. So coming out the MC, I'll have the lines feeding TWO of the original E30 T FITTING. Then out those T's the brakes will be setup in a X pattern. Front right with rear left. Hoping it works out!
Regarding your master cylinder, if I am reading that correctly, you are feeding drivers side front and rear off of one output, and passenger side front and rear off of the other output? I'd be worried about side to side bias inconsistency, and emergency braking in a failure situation, the car would pull very hard to one side.
Correct me if I'm wrong...
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Originally posted by JGood View PostHe's talking about the fittings you are using to terminate the brake lines. Brake lines from the factory use a bubble flare, with a tube nut. Compression fittings are a different design and shouldn't be used for brake systems. I'm not sure what you intend to use, but I believe that's what he was asking.
Regarding your master cylinder, if I am reading that correctly, you are feeding drivers side front and rear off of one output, and passenger side front and rear off of the other output? I'd be worried about side to side bias inconsistency, and emergency braking in a failure situation, the car would pull very hard to one side.
Correct me if I'm wrong...
As far as the brakes, they are set up in a X
Front driver with rear passenger
Front passenger with rear driver
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Originally posted by mtlbloodshot View PostI'm ending the brake lines with bubble flares at every point. I don't know where the compression fittings came up from??
As far as the brakes, they are set up in a X
Front driver with rear passenger
Front passenger with rear driver
Any reason you opted to do a X over the standard F/R?
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Originally posted by JGood View PostI'm not sure either, was just trying to clarify his question.
Any reason you opted to do a X over the standard F/R?
Not sure if my explanation is clear :/
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I just read every post in this thread. Thank you very much sir. You just made my 1987 325e project that I am preparing to start infinitely better... although not nearly as good as yours. You and your supporters have done a fantastic job. Subscribed.:up:87 BMW 325e Black
09 BMW X5 48i Alpine White
13 BMW 640i Gran Coupe Mineral White Metallic
11 Porsche Cayman S Arctic Silver
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Originally posted by oliver.r View PostDoes anyone have any wheel spacers I could temporarily borrow
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Originally posted by oliver.r View PostDoes anyone have any wheel spacers I could temporarily borrowYour signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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89 E30 S52
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Transaction Feedback.
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Monday, January 7, 2013 --
Good progress today. My order from BMW West Island arrived very early this morning luckily. Got to work instantly.
NOTE** For those who wish to use the same AUDI BRAKE BOOSTER & MC. The fittings are not the same as brake fittings. They are bigger so I recommend that you get the fittings that go to the MC.
Thankfully my car is at a AUDI/VW shop so those fittings are every where.
Passed and set my brake lines with the brand new T FITTINGS. I did the best to make it clean and tight as possible. Very happy with the outcome.
Installed the carrier bushing bracket.
Passed and zip tied my air ride lines.
Next is to make sure every thing is tight, install crossmember and drop the engine :)
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Originally posted by mdlimy View Postor.....bolt the motor on the cross member and set the car down on top of it, less chance of scratching that gorgeous paint trying to finagle the motor in from the top hehe.
Looking good as always!
And also I am 110% that my steering knuckle will be a PITA to get onto the steering column.
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Tuesday, January 8, 2013 --
Finally got the engine in!
Started by getting the cross member set in. Torqued every single bolt to spec. I was worried about having problems with the steering knuckle but I used a air gun to push it on the steering column.
Cut my copper fuel lines and placed rubber fuel hoses at the ends.
Then finally. It was time to put the motor where it belongs. I had to remove the harness off the engine.
NOTE** For those using AKG E30/M50 ENGINE MOUNTS. You may have problems aligning them up with the engine arms if you place them to the cross member like I did. I recommend leaving them loose on the member and let the weight the engine place them properly.
My painter looking impressed by his job
Last edited by mtlbloodshot; 01-08-2013, 05:51 PM.
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