Well I just spent my entire work day reading this thread (thankfully I can multi-task quite well) and wow...just jaw dropping wow.
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My '75 2002 Sleeper
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Originally posted by deutschman View PostHeist had to notched the trailing arms on his 02... Id post a picture but Photobucket wont load right now for some resin.
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Originally posted by deutschman View Post^
Damn you good niga! Im trina spell well so I can spell to write more bettermade dat my day their son! fur real dooe
Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Trust me it stock :yawn:
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Made a lot of headway on fitting the wheels and tires today. Started by finishing up the roll center spacers, which let me mount the steering arms on the struts and bolt the front suspension back together.
All bolted together:
In place:
And of course I forgot to take picture of the front completely back together. I'll have to grab some tomorrow. That being said, with everything together I confirmed the fact that I'm going to need to get new inner barrels to clear the strut. I'm going to aim for a total width of 8" or 8.5" which should fit the 225 tires nicely. I may also add a small spacer (~5mm) to fill out the flare a bit better. But I'll wait to get the wheel put together first and see what it looks like.
For the rear I 'mounted' one of the 265's on the 9.5" wheel to test the fitment with the correct hubs on the swingarm. It's going to be a tight fit to say the least, not that I expected anything else.
I still need to add the camber/toe adjustment tabs to the rear subframe, so that will help to dial out some of the excess camber you see in the pic.
Not a lot of clearance on the inner fender, but enough.
Straight on side shot. With the flares properly fit and the wheel tucked in it won't have any rubbing issues at full compression.
Here is the inner clearance with the trailing arm. Pretty much non existent. Considering the whole wheel will be moved in almost another inch when I'm done, the trailing arm will need some custom work done to it.
Here you can see how the wheels fit with the flares as I got them. My plan is to get new barrels and lips for the rear, 1" narrower lip and 1" wider barrel. That should let it tuck into the flares nicely and have full travel with no clearance issues (once I do some more sheet metal work of course).
Once I can confirm the wheel fitment and offsets I can work on making the rear coilover mounts, and then it can be a rolling chassis again!
As always, thanks for looking!
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Originally posted by tinkwithanr View PostMade a lot of headway on fitting the wheels and tires today. Started by finishing up the roll center spacers, which let me mount the steering arms on the struts and bolt the front suspension back together.
All bolted together:
In place:
And of course I forgot to take picture of the front completely back together. I'll have to grab some tomorrow. That being said, with everything together I confirmed the fact that I'm going to need to get new inner barrels to clear the strut. I'm going to aim for a total width of 8" or 8.5" which should fit the 225 tires nicely. I may also add a small spacer (~5mm) to fill out the flare a bit better. But I'll wait to get the wheel put together first and see what it looks like.
For the rear I 'mounted' one of the 265's on the 9.5" wheel to test the fitment with the correct hubs on the swingarm. It's going to be a tight fit to say the least, not that I expected anything else.
I still need to add the camber/toe adjustment tabs to the rear subframe, so that will help to dial out some of the excess camber you see in the pic.
Not a lot of clearance on the inner fender, but enough.
Straight on side shot. With the flares properly fit and the wheel tucked in it won't have any rubbing issues at full compression.
Here is the inner clearance with the trailing arm. Pretty much non existent. Considering the whole wheel will be moved in almost another inch when I'm done, the trailing arm will need some custom work done to it.
Here you can see how the wheels fit with the flares as I got them. My plan is to get new barrels and lips for the rear, 1" narrower lip and 1" wider barrel. That should let it tuck into the flares nicely and have full travel with no clearance issues (once I do some more sheet metal work of course).
Once I can confirm the wheel fitment and offsets I can work on making the rear coilover mounts, and then it can be a rolling chassis again!
As always, thanks for looking!Denny
___________
1990 BMW red 325IC M30B35 all stock Girlfriends ride
1991 BMW black 318IC (M62b44 Megasquirt 2 ver 3.57)
Blogs:
http://bmw325e30.blogspot.com/ (restoration)
http://bmw325e30turbo.blogspot.com (Twincharge M20)
http://bmw325e30m62b44.blogspot.ca/
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Originally posted by Denny View PostGreat progress...by far my favorite build on R3V... youe going to make me buy a 2002 and get divorced!! I already have 2 E30 and 1 E30 parts car...
Originally posted by deutschman View PostGreat work as always.
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Snapped some pictures of the front tonight. First I mounted the front lip and center (since the barrel won't clear the strut tube). Overall the fit is decent with the flare. I could stand to come out another half inch or so, but unless I need to buy new lips I won't worry about it. I may also need to run a small spacer to clear the tire on the strut, so we'll see how that goes.
Plenty of clearance between the rim and the flare:
Then I got really curious, so I seated the bead on outside lip to get an idea of how well it would 'fit'.
I still need to trim the stock fender for the flares, so I couldn't compress the suspension yet. That being said I really wish they offered this tire in a /45 profile as opposed to the /50 that I got. It's gonna be a pain to get these to tuck right and be able to have a halfway decent turning radius. I'm also very concerned about the clutch master cylinder that is on the driver side. I have a bad feeling that it and the tire are going to be fighting over the same real estate. But the next step is to trim the fender and see how bad the clearance is with the footwells.
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