You gonna make the drive up to picnic??
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Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo
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Originally posted by golde30 View PostYou gonna make the drive up to picnic??
I'm making the caliper adapter right now, it's quite a challenge.
Originally posted by IronFreak View PostDude dem wheelz! What are they exactly, they look amazing on your car. Specs?
16x8.5 et13 205/40 F
16x9.5 et19 215/40 RLast edited by pandaboo911; 08-19-2013, 04:03 PM.
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Nice beeld!Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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time to update this ancient thread..
got laid off and went on vacation so been busy living the broke college student life.
Installed the side skirts finally, what a pain
pictures are off an iphone 5s, actually pretty nice !
Gonna do the rear apron today, i can already tell it's gonna be super fun to put that on.Last edited by pandaboo911; 09-30-2013, 03:39 PM.
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Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful car you have there...I love EVERYTHING about it!!!
Someday, there needs to be an Mtech 1 gathering!!!- Frank
'87 325ic M-Tech 1 For Sale!
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=407503
Build Thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=229347
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Originally posted by kronus View Postoh man you are going to immediately destroy your front fenders..
looks good otherwise. are you tightening the mount chassis-side or bumper-side? I've found that chassis-side is a lot easier, but it's been a while since I've had a euro rear off.
I think with a nice roll and the stiffer 450lb springs and bigger sway bars I'll be OK. I'm actually more worried about the rear since I'm limited to just a few degrees of camber
I'm doing the rear bumper side, although chassis side would probably be easier, it's just so hard to get in there with the valance in the way. I can't even fit my hand let alone my arm. I need one of those flexible extensions and like 100 u-joints to get to the nuts.
I think I'll try chassis side , but that doesn't really allow me to make adjustmentsLast edited by pandaboo911; 09-30-2013, 05:14 PM.
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I have 400s in the front, a unfortunate bit of tire poke, and they still touch quite a bit on bumps eve though if I can't push the nose down at all.
IIRC the chassis side mounts are studs, and the top nuts are tightened from inside the trunk. That should make it a bit easier to get it in the right place!
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Originally posted by kronus View PostI have 400s in the front, a unfortunate bit of tire poke, and they still touch quite a bit on bumps eve though if I can't push the nose down at all.
IIRC the chassis side mounts are studs, and the top nuts are tightened from inside the trunk. That should make it a bit easier to get it in the right place!
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So I'm still stuck with a no-start issue. I verified I am getting spark, my CPS checked out at 560 ohms. So I check fuel pressure, which was 0 psi at the rail.
Tore out my fuel cell to check if the line or pump was clogged from the old gas
Some pics:
the pump, it's a beast, capable of 110gph
During re-install I decided to add some foam tape to the fuel pump bracket to help dampen some of the noise since this will be a daily driver. Also added some rubber washers for additional noise reduction.. worked pretty well
I put some gas back in the tank, gave the pump some juice and before I could check the pressure gauge one of the fuel lines under the car popped off its barb fitting, so I definitely have pressure!!
I suspect the injectors are not opening for whatever reason, maybe a bad ground. Also the fuel pump no longer primes for 2 seconds when I turn the key to run, that may be related to the problem.
If anyone has experienced similar issues let me know!Last edited by pandaboo911; 10-24-2013, 03:43 PM.
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