Matteo. check your rear brake slaves. in my cabriolet, when i slammed on them hard they blew out on me. and i think the bus has similar rears
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Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo
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Originally posted by george graves View PostDo yourself a favor - and either wear safety glasses - or get impact gun kinda of tools. eeek!
Originally posted by Cabriolet View PostMatteo. check your rear brake slaves. in my cabriolet, when i slammed on them hard they blew out on me. and i think the bus has similar rears
So I put the rear end together for the most part..
I decided the welds were too nice to cover up and clear coated them. And I went pretty crazy with the grease
I decided not to use the provided grease, heard too many people complain about squeaks. I used some heavy weight wheel bearing grease instead.
It's water resistant and shouldn't break down
cleaned up the axles
Also figured out it's going to be difficult to make the 750iL brakes work. they are meant for a 300mm rotor, mine is just 276mm.
Good thing they only cost me 40 bucks!
Gonna source some e46 325Ci rear calipers and try those instead, they use the same rotorLast edited by pandaboo911; 05-19-2013, 11:59 PM.
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I see some drank....
Great build so far...! Sub'dMy old Style 5 Thread / My Swap
1991 318IS :bow: 2.5L S14 Swap/BC Coilover suspension/Some new (old) wheels/
IS Skirt-Lip/RG Splitter/M-Technic I Spoiler/Dogleg/3.46 Diff/Euro H4 headlights etc.
1998 528I (Sold) // 2003 540I ///M Sport
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Originally posted by JCarp90 View PostThey look like powerflex or whatever those are called.
The TA bushings are Prothane, "race" hardness.
I was gonna buy the Castro Subframe riser bushings, but the powerflex were basically free to me.
Both the TA bushings and subframe bushings required some cutting. The "hat" of the subframe bushing was trimmed to clear the nut on the TA mount. The TA bushings were about 2mm too long, had to be cut down a tiny bit.
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sooo lately I've been dealing with the axles.
They are in good condition, the PO must have replaced them, I'm assuming with "remanufactured" axles. However, no matter how much cleaning and greasing I did, the axles didn't want to slide into the hubs, and there were no visible defects to the splines.
After doing some research I found that during the rebuilding process, some manufacturers chase the splines and threads, this results in a slightly raised area just at the end of the splines that prevents them from sliding in.
I spent about 45 minutes filing the raised area down, and it still didn't fit. I took a closer look and the splines were actually mushroomed at the ends. Spent another 30 minutes per axle filing each individual spline till it was flat.
Anyway, don't buy rebuilt axles!! either buy some used ones and run them, or rebuild OEM axles yourself, it's worth extra money. Also DONT use heavy weight grease, use a thin grease like WD40 and they will go in much easier. The best way to clean them is high pressure water, I used a pressure washer.
Even after all that filing, I still had to tap them in, and use the nut to pull them all the way into the hub
Here they are after all that filing
What a waffleswaffleswaffleswafflesing nightmareLast edited by pandaboo911; 06-02-2013, 12:22 AM.
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got the subframe in with the help of my old man.
Rolled the car out a little bit with dollies, which was super sketchy. I do not recommend doing this lol
immediately after lowering it onto the ground
after turning the coils down in the rear, there is still about 1 inch left, however the adjuster sleeve is making contact with the spring centering knub when the springs are compressed(me rocking the car up and down by sitting on the trunk)
I'll have to cut down the sleeve a bit to prevent that.
the front coils have 4" leftLast edited by pandaboo911; 06-10-2013, 09:04 PM.
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Dude dem wheelz! What are they exactly, they look amazing on your car. Specs?sigpic
Rebellion Forge Custom Fabrication
1988 325is - TrackRat in progress
Instagram @rebellionforge
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