RedMeat: LS6 Powered, M3 Flared, LTW Project - SOLD

[IronFreak]

I demand updates!!

He's a slacker......don't expect much.

[AbsorbantNut]

I demand updates!!

[zumjosh]

Well what I was planning to do was cut the rear flares and extend them by welding in extra metal so it would still keep the traditional E30 look yet fit a wider track and wider tire. I'm just hoping I'll be able to do this without much filler. I originally planned on rolling and pulling but I am afraid of ruining the structural integrity on the flares. I unfortunately have not found a good thread of a step by step on how to do this so the dimensions will not be off.

[unloadedak]

We have this 2 part epoxy here they use for gluing complete sections of chassis together, like for instance the front rails to the firewall and unibody, would be perfect for gluing the panels on. Thinking you could use original steel underneath to support the glass, so the unsupported sections would be strong. Looking at going down the same route with a 4 door as I've got wide rubber too, just couldn't decide who to buy from, but id be pretty happy with the fitment of the pesch stuff, looks like you haven't needed a lot of finishing to make them usable.

It's either that or E46 metal flares welded in, combined with the m3 evo look duraflex front and rear bumpers, plus sideskirts.

I was thinking though, for bumper mounts you couldn't have just sikaflexed the panels over the original metal bumper? Or are you just trying to save as much weight as possible too?

I'm just going to rivet on the rear quarters, don't want to spend a ton of time or money on them. No need for adhesives.

My old bumpers were euros, I sold them and I wanted to save as much weight as possible. I essentially copied the Group A DTM mounts for the front.

[Madhatter]

We have this 2 part epoxy here they use for gluing complete sections of chassis together, like for instance the front rails to the firewall and unibody, would be perfect for gluing the panels on. Thinking you could use original steel underneath to support the glass, so the unsupported sections would be strong. Looking at going down the same route with a 4 door as I've got wide rubber too, just couldn't decide who to buy from, but id be pretty happy with the fitment of the pesch stuff, looks like you haven't needed a lot of finishing to make them usable.

It's either that or E46 metal flares welded in, combined with the m3 evo look duraflex front and rear bumpers, plus sideskirts.

I was thinking though, for bumper mounts you couldn't have just sikaflexed the panels over the original metal bumper? Or are you just trying to save as much weight as possible too?

[unloadedak]

215/40s and a good working with my Eastwood and I had zero rubbing issues even under extreme load (on/off ramps, etc) with the 5mm spacers. Ti rear 98M front 8" et15 effectively. If I took 5mm off I would be able to do 225s. IIRC camber was 3.3deg front 2.5deg rear.

To run a 235/245 you would need e30M for sure. Or these fiberglass flares :)

[Poorboyz]

I had my E39 RC090 filled and redrilled. I'm about 2 weeks away from having them on my car. Finishing up polishing the lips.

I also had bought 318ti trailing arms and almost bought a set of e36 m3 front suspension parts. I did a lot of reading and asked a lot of questions and concluded that if I wanted style 5 on my 4 lug e30 I needed to have filled and redrilled...so I did.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

[zumjosh]

How is it impossible? Only issue was calipers. I dremeled them but spacers would work too. I ran 5mm all around on these wheels.

I was reading about 5 lug swaps and currently I have purchased full 318ti rear, 95 M3 struts, 97 control arms, 97 spindles, hubs, brakes, etc... And apparently I can't run RC090 17x8 ET 20 without major rolling and pulling and stretched tires... So I'm just curious how you did your setup. I'm kinda tied to the wheels now that I've purchased them already and started refinishing them.

And also I was reading this post:

From doing a lot of research I believe there are only 2 ways of properly installing E39 Style 5s on a non M E30.

1. Get them redrilled to 4x100 and use hubrings.
2. Use 5-Lug parts from E30 M

-- E36 5 lug swap will not work with E39 style 5s...wheels stick out too much due to the E36 hubs sticking out farther than the stock E30s and the offset of the E39 Style 5s.

-- Adapters will not work due to the offset of the E39 Styles 5s either...wheels stick out too much

[unloadedak]

How is it impossible? Only issue was calipers. I dremeled them but spacers would work too. I ran 5mm all around on these wheels.

[zumjosh]

I have to ask about this setup since I'm about to do the same. I keep reading everywhere on the forums that it's nearly impossible to do E36 M3 front with these wheels. I'd appreciate any help and advice.

[unloadedak]

thanks guys.

got a couple more ideas to mess around with before it's off the rotisserie.

gonna try and get a super simple removable core support fabbed.. some tubing and the same connectors they use for removable cage braces.
if you've ever pulled a 24v motor with trans on it you know that the core support and oil pan become very close friends.

rough plan
-cut out floor for cage mounts
-finish fuel system install
-removable core support
-install front suspension
-take it off the rotisserie
-sunroof plug
-cage/paint prep

[Peattie]

I dont know how I forgot about this thread. Looks awesome, now I want some M flares..

[capn]

Subing, I like where this is going.

[IronFreak]

I have a list, its not at the top haha

[unloadedak]

You're right.................taking a five month break to start my wives business which required me to completely gut my basement, while being a full time college student and WORKING 40+ hours a week is a completely illegitimate argument.

I retract me previous comment.........;D

You said priorities. Therefore you just proved e30 is not priority for you.