So does mine. The whole engine bay on that side is torched constantly. I've done what I can but I fear I will still have issues on hot days. My biggest concern is the last two cylinder of the block. I fear they will heat soak due to being at the end of the line in the cooling system along with minimum airflow. I think the issue could cause head gasket failure, especially at higher boost.
My plan was one of these options:
1. Find a way to use a small SXS electric clutch cooling fan and mount it someplace to circulate air around the turbo/ downpipe in the engine bay. Set it up on its own switch and use it on days where we see 120 degrees off the pavement in summer.
2. Use the engine block drain bolt as a cooling port and run AN fitted line out to a small radiator flat mounted to the bottom of the car. Pipe the coolant back into the main cooling system somewhere up front and further complicate my already over the top cooling system modifications.
Both potential solutions have one big problem. Space. All room in the engine bay is taken by IC piping, Scavenge pump hoses, oil restrictors, turbo cooling lines ect ect. Its a freakin' mess.
I have been searching for hours over the past few days trying to find a build I saw years ago where someone used the block drain to add in an additional radiator. The system had its own thermostat and was relatively small in size. The cooler was mounted in the wheel well with its own dedicated 6 inch electric fan. It was done on an E36 rally car out of the Europe somewhere. I wonder if it worked well enough to make it worth the headache of designing one.
3. Cut holes in the hood and install louvers. I am always massively against doing this type of thing. The louvers would have to be perfectly done and seriously functional for me to be happy with it. I would likely buy a donor hood and experiment. This idea could also work in addition to a custom under tray with lower scoops to force air passing under the car up into the turbo and downpipe area. Although it will require a considerable amount of fab work to do both of these (and a 3d printer I do not have) it might help. The only problem here is the additions are only effective when the car is moving. Stop and go traffic, lower speed side streets and a good majority of everyday commuting is done sub 40 mph. Not much air is moving around the car.
Upside to this idea- no space constraints for hood vents. It'll make the cooling system work better (in theory)
Downside to this idea - No longer will the car look stock. Potential ricer broccoli head mentality. Pop up meet fgts. Not ideal.
4. Sell it and buy a prius
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I like the heat shielding, it's similar to what I did with my turbo. My car needs more, or new AC lines, I think the recent leakdown is due to the heat on the service ports.Leave a comment:
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It's time for the drop boys. After hours of filling/ sanding/ painting the terrible magnesium cover, we have now achieved results I can live with. Some final glamor shots before the engine goes back in the chassis.
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It does. Its a 90 degree line fitting. about 1/2 inch away from hitting the firewall.Leave a comment:
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Does the oil feed even fit with that fitting sticking straight out? When I fed my turbo M42 from the back of the head I used a banjo bolt.Leave a comment:
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Still slacking. Progress has been slow. Switched to a Spa manifold. I could not get one of the previous ebay junkers to fit the way I wanted.
Heat shielding is done. Once the VC paint work is complete the engine will be put back into the chassis.
Last edited by Dj Buttchug; 07-27-2025, 01:09 PM.Leave a comment:
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Top end work coming together. AN fitting for turbo oil supply sorted @ rear of cylinder head.
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Coming together nicely. Glacier Silver Cerakote looking good so far.
Last edited by Dj Buttchug; 05-15-2025, 10:32 AM.Leave a comment:
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