Emma Watson and 2 E34's (Low Mount Turbo M50 Project)

[Dj Buttchug]

My M50 IAT sensor in an unmodified manifold is responsive enough for tuning, I can see it get hot at idle or in traffic when flow is low and then when I get on it the temp drops throughout the duration of the pull, which is conservative but that's fine. If the harness was long enough I might consider welding a bung into my cold side pipe and moving the sensor. My intercooler and turbo are pretty understressed though, I don't know what IAT will look like when I start to get into the regions of the compressor map that are below 70% efficiency and flow rates that are closer to the ultimate capacity of my intercooler.

The sensor move has been ok so far. Probably not really needed. It is nice to see the true air temp when the engine is at operating temp. Meth nozzle is just upstream now from the IAT sensor. Time will tell if that causes any problems.


Finished the quick disco oil cooler connections this weekend


AEM wideband controller/gauge completely signed off. shows 10.0 under all driving conditions. I've also lost the digital pixels in the actual display. Not sure if it cannot handle the Utah sun but the controller is smoked.

Looking at CAN Lambda from Link.

[varg]

My M50 IAT sensor in an unmodified manifold is responsive enough for tuning, I can see it get hot at idle or in traffic when flow is low and then when I get on it the temp drops throughout the duration of the pull, which is conservative but that's fine. If the harness was long enough I might consider welding a bung into my cold side pipe and moving the sensor. My intercooler and turbo are pretty understressed though, I don't know what IAT will look like when I start to get into the regions of the compressor map that are below 70% efficiency and flow rates that are closer to the ultimate capacity of my intercooler.

[Dj Buttchug]

Even the OBD2 open element sensor seems to heat soak pretty badly in the regular M50 manifold location. It's on my list as well...

I ended up having to change settings for meth injection after doing this. Significant change in air temp readings. Easily 40 degrees cooler.



ATI Damper is installed. The unit is press fit and somewhat of a pain in the ass to install. 5lbs heavier than stock, should help out a bit with the loss of rotational mass at the flywheel. The chatter isnt terrible, but its there and noticeable.

[Northern]

Even the OBD2 open element sensor seems to heat soak pretty badly in the regular M50 manifold location. It's on my list as well...

[Dj Buttchug]

IAT heat soaks in stock location. Little tweaks now. Moved to charge pipe for more accurate readings.

[Dj Buttchug]

250 miles down on new crank case vent system and all previous issues are gone. Working well under boost. Next up is a Super Damper harmonic balancer install to add a little weight lost at the flywheel.

Also I have purchased a set of OEM M5 sport seats. Going back to OG. The buckets will be for sale.

[Dj Buttchug]

Rally Road oil block to house the temp and pressure sensors. Also retaining the dummy oil pressure light sensor for the cluster.



Also note:
If you want to do this pressure/ oil temp gauge you must cut off the pins that go to the actual econ meter needle mechanism and reinstall them into the cluster board to keep from getting a constant "check control" warning on the OBC.


Now to test the PCV system and watch my rear main seal to see if it continues to push oil out. Damage I think has been done from the dyno on the rear main however it hasnt leaked since. Time will tell and if it does Ill enjoy myself a transmission drop to replace it. Hopefully it holds out for a time so I can source 6spd swap parts.

I am sick and tired of these shitbox zf's.

More as it comes.

[Dj Buttchug]

Finished the crack case vent system.




Final of the cluster


And overhead pic of engine bay after work.

[Dj Buttchug]

Thanks Varg

Heres a few more as parts are arriving. Still waiting on chasebays catch can. Giving these quick disco connections a shot to see how they seal. Made by dyme PSI.

[varg]

Pretty nice clean install in the end. Looks worlds better than the trendy haltech screen you see in so many builds these days.

[Dj Buttchug]

I messed around with a Mann Pro-vent 200 to connect to the valve cover, dipstick, and pre-turbo. I didn't like how much oil was sent by the Pro-vent and ended up binning that setup and venting to atmosphere (from the larger M52 VC port) below the car for simplicity and to not oil my MAF... I like the idea of power and environmental benefits of vacuum on the crankcase but there's something to be said for the simplicity of an open vent.

Since removing my provent, I saw some guys running the VC/vacuum source backwards, saying it works better, but ymmv with it...
I also see they have redesigned the lineup, so all of this could be obsolete info.

Im waiting on parts for system that I hope will work. Ill know soon.


In the meantime, I put the meth LED lights into my cluster. I also got wind of a company called My Classic parts. They sell a slick E36 specific oil temp and pressure digital gauge that swaps into the cluster in place of the eco-meter. I bought one, thinking it would be easy to install in an E34 cluster. LOL

It was not. It took me about 6 hours to do this. Worth it imo.

My Eco- meter no longer works because I needed an output channel to run my methanol solenoid.

I wanted this badly so I hot knifed my RPM gauge all to shit. Here are the final results.

[Northern]

I messed around with a Mann Pro-vent 200 to connect to the valve cover, dipstick, and pre-turbo. I didn't like how much oil was sent by the Pro-vent and ended up binning that setup and venting to atmosphere (from the larger M52 VC port) below the car for simplicity and to not oil my MAF... I like the idea of power and environmental benefits of vacuum on the crankcase but there's something to be said for the simplicity of an open vent.

Since removing my provent, I saw some guys running the VC/vacuum source backwards, saying it works better, but ymmv with it...
I also see they have redesigned the lineup, so all of this could be obsolete info.

[Dj Buttchug]

I wondered how effective that scavenge pump would be mounted above the turbo, I've never seen anyone do that. How hard would it be for you to find somewhere for it where the line does not have to run uphill before it reaches the pump for a test's sake? Usually low mount turbos have a sump of their own, and often it has its own breather.

Turbowerks claim the pump can scavenge up to 3 feet above a fluid source. It works really well until crankcase pressure increases. While I wait for parts I removed the stock VC vent and shoved a rubber hose in there. That has seemed to help alot already.

[varg]

I wondered how effective that scavenge pump would be mounted above the turbo, I've never seen anyone do that. How hard would it be for you to find somewhere for it where the line does not have to run uphill before it reaches the pump for a test's sake? Usually low mount turbos have a sump of their own, and often it has its own breather.

[Dj Buttchug]

Crankcase pressure under boost is very high. So much so that my scavenge oil system is pressurizing. After a hard pull the system cannot move oil and the oil drain line backs up. The result is a brief puff of white smoke out the exhaust in overrun. I can see vapors coming from the scavenge tank vent line pissing out the passenger side of the hood. Here is my plan utilizing the front VC cover vent and one of the exhaust sprocket access bolts. All lines will be -10 AN. Oil filter cap from Rally Road will go to the intake to create slight vacuum on the crankcase. Remaining vent line off the catch can will go to the underside of the car and vent to open air (or potentially into an exhaust venturi) however I am not sure this will be needed. It depends on how well the system relieves pressure. -10AN flows about 15cfm. With three vents 45cfm aprox should be more than enough to get the pressure under control.