Emma Watson and 2 E34's (Low Mount Turbo M50 Project)

[Dj Buttchug]

Little details moving along with smaller items.

Pro Meth Kit going in. This will be controlled progressively with the LINK ECU. Fabricated a quick bracket with riv-nuts to fasten both tanks in place. Front clear tank if for the distilled mist on the intercooler. Black tank is for the joooooce.

More to come soon.

[Dj Buttchug]

Hood delete mod. Problem solved.

[2mAn]

Vent out the hood and paint the vents then...

If theres an Old school hot rod shop closeby? Ask them about louvering the hood??

[varg]

Can you vent out the fenders like the Z3 supposedly did?

Wouldn't really be practical the way the E34 is built. The ECU box is in the way, and the partition it sits behind is connected to the HVAC inlet plenum under the cowl. On the other side the fuse box gets in the way. The only way to vent out of the fender gap or a vent in the fender would be to run a hose or duct through the wheel well or modify the partitions that hold the ECU box and fuse box and run a duct through them, relocating the fuse box and ecu in the process. The E34's design really doesn't make this turbo stuff easy, I love how my E34 wagon looks, and the car is good in many ways, but I would not turbocharge one again, at least not with an engine that is slanted. It's a pain in the ass.

[2mAn]

Can you vent out the fenders like the Z3 supposedly did?

[Dj Buttchug]

I agree guys. I cant get up the motivation to do it. If I had an extra hood maybe but I think I may return these and figure out a different option. I want the car to look stock and the vents are just to raced out for me.

I did find a problem with my coolant temp sensor that was causing issues with cold temp and hot temp readings. I was getting a 30 degree incorrect cold reading and a 10-15 degree normal operating temp reading. At 180 degree normal temp LINK ecu was showing 192-195 and cold IAT temps would be say 45 degrees in the morning and ECT would read close to 100.

5v reference on coolant temp sensor wiring was the culprit. 4.03v was all I could get so that pointed to a partial short somewhere drawing the voltage down. To fix the issue I had to pull new wire through the loom and replace number 78 pin. I installed a new 2 pin connector that plugs to the sensor. After testing the voltage the 1v drop is now gone.

This problem has lead me to believe my engine was operating hotter than it actually was. Now that I have it sorted we may be ok with cooling. Only further testing will confirm.


I have yet to get the car to a dyno

Hopefully in the next few weeks I can get some time set aside to get a good tune written.

[varg]

Well you already know how I feel about hood vents, but I cooked my AC lines with my stubbornness. As part of my winter projects I'm probably going to put another fan in the engine bay that just forces cool air in on the exhaust side.

[OSAH racing]

I would not.

[Dj Buttchug]

Is it goy or is it not gay

That is the question.

[OSAH racing]

I agree, What a great looking street car.

[2mAn]

Car looks fantastic. Hope all the hard work makes it a smooth process from here

[Dj Buttchug]

Another 30 miles of engine break in done. Making boost at 2400rpm. Very nice for a street car.

However, I would like to see more air moving past my cooling system. Earlier a discussion was had about hood vents. I have ordered some from Condor. One on each side paint matched to keep the rice down. It is the only effective way I can think of to reduce the positive pressure in the bay.

[Dj Buttchug]

That's gotta feel good- nice to see you tracked hours too. When I tell someone how many hours it takes me to mechanically revive a shitbox E30 most just laugh and assume it's not a real number. The opportunity cost of building these cars is real

Totally. Things add up so quickly. Only those who have done it really understand what it takes. Its safe to say I am officially burnt out with custom projects. This will be the last turbo build I do ( at least for a very long while) With my first kid on the way here in November most of my time will be taken up.

[AWDBOB]

That's gotta feel good- nice to see you tracked hours too. When I tell someone how many hours it takes me to mechanically revive a shitbox E30 most just laugh and assume it's not a real number. The opportunity cost of building these cars is real

[Dj Buttchug]

Celebratory brew and a much needed wash after over a year of building.

We have some small tuning quirks to sort out. The idle control lockouts and decel overrun is causing the engine to randomly stall when you depress the clutch coming to a stoplight. I built a new VE table mirroring my E30 and its pretty damn close. LINK PNP is complicated. The Aussies built this ECU after ripping a couple blizzies. This morning I flushed the cooling system with distilled water to remove any debris left in there from the build. A good bit came out in the fluid so I am happy with that for now. I will do an oil change in about 100 miles. Castrol 10w-40 CONVENTIONAL.

I got my hands on some pretty slick quick disconnect oil fittings for my oil cooler so I will be installing those soon. It will allow me to disconnect the oil filter distribution block during an oil change without having to fight the AN lines.

Then soon after 500 or so miles of break in I will take it to the dyno and post a chart. Still to finish is some sort of fix for the cars paint (wrap the stock color or try and save whats here) I also have some ideas for a front splitter, rear diffuser and E90 skirt trim to finish this off.

As stated previously in this thread many times. Do not attempt this build unless you are ok with dragging your nuts across broken glass for 2 years.

Total build costs as of now (obviously no labor)

+/- 750 hrs of research and wrench time. (Probably conservative here as it is likely more)

Total estimated cost all in as the car sits. +/- $37,500.00