E30 S52 Build + Turbo Install

[DrLeadFoot]

Can't wait to see the results.

Do you have any input on how to straighten out the manifold flange?

[SSR-125]

What are you running for tuning? Im trying to figure out a megasquirt set up v3 for my s50 turbo i have been working on

[DrLeadFoot]

What are you running for tuning? Im trying to figure out a megasquirt set up v3 for my s50 turbo i have been working on

My buddy, Snapundersteer, is helping me out a ton. I have very limited knowledge of MS3X at the moment. What help do you need?

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[DrLeadFoot]

Where are the directions for this thing??!







If you look at the first pic you can see where the connector was digging into the MS3x.

[DrLeadFoot]

Intake Air Temp bung welded by Dan the Exhaust Man.




This transcamarobird was getting a cage custom made by Dan.





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[DrLeadFoot]

Cleaned up the carbon build up on the pistons as well as sanding down some detonation marks.



Before:


After:



I also mic'd the ARP2000 head studs:


If you can't read my want-to-be (real) doctor handwriting it goes a little something like this:

All numbers start with 114.xx

---Front of motor---
.33 .32

.48 .37

.40 .26

.44 .35

.42 .43

.32 .34

.41 .30
---Rear of Motor---

I have a couple of theories of why the head gasket was leaking.

1. The bolts stretched due to the tune running super rich and stretching the bolts over time.

2. There was some red loc-tite on the threads of some of the block threads. I had Kummrow torque down the head so I'm not too sure about how fast they torqued down the bolts. If there was any significant time lapse between installing the head bolts and actually torquing down them down to spec with the use of loc-tite the loc-tite would have hardened up with the bolts just sitting there having gravity pulling them down. Then torquing them down wouldn't be a true torque due to the loc-tite in between the threads.

3. Does that red ARP torque lube dry and look like red loc-tite? Then back to theory #1.

4. The bolts were a pain to take out of the block. I needed to use a small pipe wrench to crack them loose. (See theory #2) It took about 25lbs of force to break them loose. To my theory #4, were the bolts tightened down too much making them slightly cock-eyed and when torqued down the force stretched them from the beginning?

[Northern]

2: AFAIK there shouldn't be loctite on ARPs, just their installation lube: http://arp-bolts.com/p/arpultratorque.php

Did you re-torque the studs after a few heat cycles? Some people recommend this, others say it's not necessary, but it can't hurt.

Disclaimer: I've never installed 24v ARPs, only M20 stuff, so there may be differences.

[DrLeadFoot]

Did a little bit of work on the ECU.





BMW coils


Cutting the bottom row of pins on the ECU

[DrLeadFoot]

My buddy is helping me out and trying to straighten out the Good & Tight manifold.



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[Good & Tight]

My buddy is helping me out and trying to straighten out the Good & Tight manifold.

That belt sander will deff get it flat. How far out did it get..?

[DrLeadFoot]

This far. The machine over heated twice on him. It was .050 to .060 off.



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[DrLeadFoot]

And they're off!





First one done! I think this fuel relay one was supposed to be on a relay. I'll figure it out soon enough.





Got a good chunk started. Also have a lot of questions.

[Northern]

are you planning to switch the BIP373 coil drivers from the MS3 out for the ones from the old bosch DME?

[DrLeadFoot]

are you planning to switch the BIP373 coil drivers from the MS3 out for the ones from the old bosch DME?

I'll be using the BMW coil drivers. I have to solder those in today.

[Northern]

After I posted, I realized that the pre-made MS3 kits don't already have coil drivers, just the circuits. derp. It makes sense now.