1971 BMW 1600 Project

[phreshkid]

if the new spring is loose (i.e. not compressed at all when the strut's out), then it's possible for the damper to extend and make it look like it's currently looking. I can't really tell much without a side shot of the shoulders of the strut.

Side shot? I'll snap a few photos for you tomorrow. When the car is on the ground the spring is definitely compressing. I ninja edited my last post and added the last photo. That spring is definitely compressing.

another possibility: did you get spax springs for a 2002? is it possible that the 1600 uses different struts and shorter springs?

Spax has two spring choices for the e10 chassis. They have a 35mm lowering spring (PSX) and a 50mm lowering spring (SSX).
Here is a link of what I purchased. My invoice confirmed this. I think I have part number photos on the springs themselves. I'll check now.

http://www.spax.biz/product_info.php?cPath=144_1154_1155&products_id=1504

[kronus]

Here is a photo of what the front suspension looks like when on the ground. Sorry for the potato quality.

what's the distance between the bottom of the camber plate bolts and the top of the upper spring hat?

[LJ851]

Are those fixed camber plates on there now?


If everything is assembled correctly, i would start cutting off some of the dead coils on the front springs til it was right

[phreshkid]

what's the distance between the bottom of the camber plate bolts and the top of the upper spring hat?

I do know that my mechanic (helped with the install) added a washer to allow the strut bearing to spin freely. There was an issue with binding and a spacer fixed it. That's as much as I recall. I'll try to snap a few photos tomorrow or Thursday.

Thanks for your help. I really do appreciate it.

[phreshkid]

Are those fixed camber plates on there now?
If everything is assembled correctly, i would start cutting off some of the dead coils on the front springs til it was right

Yes. IE's camber plates. Took a good bit of grinding to make them fit on the strut bearing. But all is well now.

I ninja edited in your ninja edit, then ninja edited this post. I can't start cutting coils. I didn't know at the time, but these are progressive springs. Cutting would quite literally ruin the springs.
If they were linear like IE's stage I or II springs, then yes, cutting would work.


Edit 2:

Photo of the Spax Springs. The part numbers on these springs are correct for the SSX 50mm lowering springs.

[LJ851]

The bottom, progressive coils are coil bound, explain how cutting one or two off will change anything.

[phreshkid]

The bottom, progressive coils are coil bound, explain how cutting one or two off will change anything.

I wasn't aware of this. 70% of my knowledge comes from the internet forums. If someone says don't cut progressive rate springs, they usually have a good but not-so-clear reason as to why.

I'll research this now. You wouldn't happen to have a link would you?

[BuzzBomb]

The nutshell explanation is progressives increase in stiffness as the spring compresses. A linear spring's rate is constant. Cutting a progressive spring changes the rate at which it becomes stiff- imagine an arc representing the rate increase on a graph. Cutting a linear spring increases the rate at a constant rate, as in a straight line on a graph. That's as clear as I could put it.

[BuzzBomb]

The problem appears to be that you have so many of the primary coils bottomed out, that you essentially have linear springs in the front. Lets find out why. Cutting the springs isn't the answer.

[BuzzBomb]

Honestly I think the springs are made incorrectly. The ride height is wrong.

[CubbyChowder]

I'm sure your front end is lighter with the new engine, battery relocation and lack of a hood, might have something to do with it, although I doubt it could really make that big of a difference.

[LJ851]

The springs are compressed too much while the spring is unloaded (weight off of them). Those bottom coils appear dead, but shouldn't be. Cutting a coil from the bottom won't lower the car, it will only allow the coil to become slightly less compressed. you'd have to cut 2-3 coils off before the weight of the car would overcome the spring stiffness, lowering the ride height. But this isn't how we're fixing this one. First we need to find out why we're so compressed!

What?

I assure you that cutting a coil off will lower the car.

I am very aware of how a progressive spring functions, however i am also aware what a dead coil looks like and there are multiple dead coils on this setup.

I agree cutting should be the last resort , but the reality here is that this isn't an F1 car. Cutting a dead coil off some aftermarket springs is going to be just fine.


H&R race springs coil bind the middle few coils in the rear of an e30, should we tell H&R they were wrong to design them that way?

[phreshkid]

I'm sure your front end is lighter with the new engine, battery relocation and lack of a hood, might have something to do with it, although I doubt it could really make that big of a difference.

I don't think that will do it, but I know what you are saying.


What are the chances that the progressive springs are incorrectly inverted? Would flipping them upside down make a difference?


I think I want to take these apart one more time with an "02 guy" present.

[LJ851]

Inverting the springs should not make a noticeable difference.

Having an 02 guy look at them sounds like a good plan, wish i was closer i'd be glad to help.

[phreshkid]

Inverting the springs should not make a noticeable difference.

Having an 02 guy look at them sounds like a good plan, wish i was closer i'd be glad to help.

<3

Thanks guys. I'll make some calls tomorrow.