Originally posted by silence
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
1971 BMW 1600 Project
Collapse
X
-
-
to each their own.
•• Powersteering Deletes • M20 Motor & Trans Mounts • 24V swap mounts • UHMW Offset CABs ••
•• Rear Subframe Bushings • RTABs • Facebook ••
Comment
-
Originally posted by SkiFree View PostSolid mounts on a street cruiser?
Looks good Ryan, glad you found an exhaust solution. A flex pipe would be nice (along with the transmission-to-exhaust crossbrace)
Originally posted by silence View PostYou need some Condor engine mounts :)
edit: Just asked my Pamela Handerson if she likes vibrations. She doesn't.
Originally posted by LJ851 View PostI tried poly mounts and while the car handled much better, the vibration was absurd especially at idle. I can image how bad a solid mount would be. M10 has a lot more and higher frequency vibration, I went back to stock mounts. I think the answer is a rubber mounted strut to stop the engine torquing from side to side.
Interesting developments at the warehouse today. I'm not a happy camper and I'll explain why, with photos, later today. Let's just say I had to do some Mickey Mouse work that ended up taking me all day.Last edited by phreshkid; 05-19-2014, 05:48 PM.world renown Harry Potter expert
sigpic
Comment
-
Originally posted by silence View PostThey aren't as bad as you think they would be.
Phresh, I hope everything is okYours truly,
Rich
sigpic
Originally posted by Rigmasteryou kids get off my lawn.....
Comment
-
Updates and Photos.
Here are a few more shots of the exhaust work. I am pleased with it this far, but I will have to make a few tweaks.
I chose to use slip fittings instead of a v-band setup for simplicity. I'm actually still waiting on two clamps. Fully modular, fully mandrel bent system. It looks so pretty. I'll probably add a flex pipe and another mount somewhere right before the subframe. There is some play back there that I want to take care of.
And here is where the party starts. I was hoping that today or tomorrow was the day I start the engine. I go through the necessary steps and begin thinking about coolant and oil.
Remember that weird drain plug thing that I took a photo of a while back? Well it wouldn't come out, so I had to rip it out.
This thing:
ended up looking like this:
because of this:
If you can tell, it looks like the oil pan was dropped directly on the drain plug housing and damaged it. The engine builder decided WTF let's reuse it and Mickey Mouse the hell out of the drain plug and sell it as is. I took this as a big "F You" from the seller. This really pissed me off.
I consulted with a few others and agreed that the oil pan would need to be replaced. I don't really get angry, but my brain wasn't having any of it today. What would have been a nice day, bringing this build to something of a close, turned into a oil pan replacement surgery.
So off the pan comes.
I figured out a way to remove the oil pan without raising the engine or lowering the subframe. It involves removing a few bolts from the oil pickup and sliding it sideways, allowing for oil pan removal clearance. It worked great, but I'm still mad and the PO.
Luckly I have a fresh pan stashed away for another 02 project, so it wasn't a big pain in my balls. Here it is, being prepped with RTV gasket maker. I'm not crazy about the stuff, but my mechanic says it's good. I trust my mechanic; he's become one of my good friends, even though I don't speak spanish. We use our hands to communicate like apes, but we understand each other quite well.
And here it is, new pan, fresh drain plug, and everything is back to normal, AS IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN FROM DAY 1. I partially blame myself for not looking into this when the engine was out, but I was led to believe that it was a perfect engine in every way. Heh.
And a new oil filter for good measure. The green oil is Brad Penn 20w/50 Partial Synthetic.
I'm going to treat this engine like it's brand new, and go through the proper break-in procedure. I'm getting close.
I really hope this engine works out. I don't know what to believe anymore.
Til next time,
Ryan.Last edited by phreshkid; 05-19-2014, 05:09 PM.world renown Harry Potter expert
sigpic
Comment
-
I use the same stuff on all my pans. Never leak when done correctly. Just did one last weekend.
That sucks about the plug... One could argue it was dropped during shipping or transport.
Until you pulled the oil plug.... I'm sorry man, that sucks and is horse shit imo. And you can quote me on that.Yours truly,
Rich
sigpic
Originally posted by Rigmasteryou kids get off my lawn.....
Comment
-
Originally posted by LJ851 View PostMe too.
Exhaust looks very nice, someone can weld.
Here is is website if you are interested: ironcobras.com
Check out the blog section.
Originally posted by delatlanta1281 View PostI use the same stuff on all my pans. Never leak when done correctly. Just did one last weekend.
That sucks about the plug... One could argue it was dropped during shipping or transport.
Until you pulled the oil plug.... I'm sorry man, that sucks and is horse shit imo. And you can quote me on that.
And thanks, I try to refrain from using dirty language but you are right, this grade A horse shit.
Originally posted by fresh_TD View PostI want to hear this running already :-)
Sent from my Samsung Note 3
You know, I don't expect it to be great, but I built it and it's mine. I'll love it however it sounds. Except for when I can't stand it, then I'll change it up again.world renown Harry Potter expert
sigpic
Comment
-
Decided to take some time and finish up the little jobs that I didn't want to do at the beginning.
First, rebuild the shifter using the Blunttech Kit. This required removing the driveshaft, the exhaust, and pretty much everything attached to the tranny (from the rear).
Here is a naked photo. Notice the metal sheath still on the guibo:
Surgery and bushing removal/install:
And here is everything, back together. I don't expect that sticker to last more than three revolutions.
And here is the interior side of things, all buttoned up:
I will likely address the sound system (there currently isn't one) after I work most of the mechanical kinks out. I've learned with my silver car that if you try to do everything at once, you end up doing nothing at all. I can't make that mistake twice.
I noticed a small puddle of coolant underneath the car. I pinpointed it to this general area. I'm not sure if it's from this stud, or its coming from the water neck, directly to the left of this stud. Either way, I'll probably find out tomorrow.
Soon, this engine will come to life.
Oh and I installed the throttle cable, made a cable ground that attaches the block to the frame, and put the driver's seat back in. I forgot to take photos.world renown Harry Potter expert
sigpic
Comment
-
Originally posted by LJ851 View PostI can't find a picture showing the stud that is in between the intake manifold and coolant neck. It is supposed to have a large, extra thick washer spreading the load between both parts. Do you have this ?
You're a smart guy. I like you. Thanks for the tip.world renown Harry Potter expert
sigpic
Comment
-
The factory intake and water neck are the same thickness so bmw used a nice beefy washer to get a good clamp on both pieces.
Here is another situation you can have when aftermarket parts are brought into the mix.
`
The two options here are to make a stepped washer to take up the difference in height or machine the taller component to match the shorter one.
Comment
-
More nice work!
I'll also agree that Condor mounts are to much for a street car. I have them on my autox car which I drive maybe ones a week besides events, and it is LOUD! And it vibrates a lot.
I like urethane mounts for a spirited DD car. And OEM mounts for a comfertable DD car with a nice sound system.sigpic
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."
Comment
-
Originally posted by LJ851 View PostThe factory intake and water neck are the same thickness so bmw used a nice beefy washer to get a good clamp on both pieces.
Here is another situation you can have when aftermarket parts are brought into the mix.
The two options here are to make a stepped washer to take up the difference in height or machine the taller component to match the shorter one.
And if you look closely, you can see the leak and the coolant puddle it created below. A pretty steady flow if you ask me.
As soon as I began loosening the shared nut, a flow of coolant began. It looks like I may have found the culprit. Luckily I have this stuff cally Hylomar that acts as a gasket and can be applied to existing gaskets and metal surfaces. My mechanic loves this stuff so I said why not, I'd try it.
and
Then I buttoned it back up, using another washer on top of the half-washer, refilled it with coolant, and squeezed the hoses trying to make it leak in the same spot. Still no leak, but I don't think I'm out of the woods yet.
Still haven't checked timing or valve clearances, but will do that next week. I did manage to have a guy come out this morning and roll the rear fenders for more clearance. I feel better about running these wheels now.
More to come next week!world renown Harry Potter expert
sigpic
Comment
Comment