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Turbo Inka 4 Door: Stripped & street legal rotisserie build + Powdercoating Pr0n

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    Haven't had my computer for over a week since my whole family's been ill. This is going to be a long post. I hear it makes for easy, light evening reading...

    Got a lot of work done on the car since I wasn't at work all day. I used a heat gun and putty knife to remove the trunk sound deadening. I didn't know BMW put 2 layers on. It was almost easier to remove the top layer then the bottom. Some of it came off in big pieces. Other areas, not so much.

    I decided I wanted to try the dry ice method. Turns out you can do the whole interior with one bag but I'm glad I had two just in case:

    Total sound deadening weight for the trunk, rear seat, and driver and passenger foot wells was 50.6lbs.

    Carpet out: Weighed in at 30lbs

    Started on the seam sealer. So thick around the rear seat/trans tunnel junction. I had the garage door closed and because I was wearing a respirator and goggles didn't notice I'd completely hot boxed the garage in smoke and dust. It billowed out for like 5 minutes when I opened it. Hope the neighbors weren't getting any funny ideas about how we run things 'round here...but I supposed it would be a good way to help toddlers sleep.

    Then I turned to the sunroof. I removed the panel and found this:

    Gnarly. I wondered why rust was falling on my head when I drove with the sunroof slightly cracked. The whole panel was full of rust dust and pieces of metal. The panel from the 86 is perfect so I will use it or fab up a CF/glass cover. I'll use the existing panel as a mold along with a bit extra on the ends to match the hole. I borrowed a welder from my bro-in-law and will practice on the other shell first. As I understand it: Pre heat the roof skin, quick tack welds, cool off ASAP after welding. What could go wrong?!

    I used a sawzall to trim the cassette opening. This really helped when I started in with the heat gun to get between the roof skin and the cassette with a putty knife.

    Followed a DIY for the cassette removal and it went without a hitch. Thought I messed up when the pass side wouldn't budge but it was because I missed a spot weld.

    I won. Cassette and parts weight in at roughly 30-35 as everyone claims.

    I found a powder coating setup including respirator, IR thermometer, oven, gun, a drawer full of various colors, plugs, tape etc for like $80 from the local drift FB page. I plan on making a larger oven out of a single door freezer when I can find a free one. Ran a 220v line and learned about that--good thing it was a pretty easy run from the fuse box to the shop. The guy at Lowes was a total ringer for Heisenberg but his knowledge was electronics not chemistry, still fun. I have the oven on a furniture dolly so I can keep it outside in a tarp and not piss off my wife.

    The kids think it's hilarious having car parts all over the garage. I gave them the best seats in the house as I build a chain-link fence gate around the 86 shell in the side driveway. I bought a license to have a non-op car in the driveway for a year for like $10. Rediculous local ordinance.

    The parts pile next to the car grows huge. I don't even want to put much of it back in the car.

    On a sour note I dropped my instrument cluster and cracked the plastic cover and who knows what inside. Maybe it's time to screw the whole dash and cluster and run only the bluetooth gauge app/connector Codrum sells on here and a digital dash from DIYAutotune. I'm going to practice repairing both dashes and flocking one and recovering the other in ultrasuede. I'd like to see how much foam I can get away with removing. The goal is to remove as much front end weight as possible. I can always add more gas to the rear/mid and a spare tire later. It would be fantastic to run GPS-based telemetry and all that and analyze data at the end of a day of autocross. #dreambig
    Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread


      I sent my MS unit back to whodwho for repair. Not sure what's up with it. I tested pin 19 and got 12v but no LEDs lit up. I hope it's not fried.

      Thoughts for later:

      Wheels: 15x9 with 225/45/15s or 17/8.5 or 9 with 235/40/17
      Leaning heavily towards e28 or e35 M5 wheels with adapters...but I understand having 13lb 15x9s would be ideal. In bike racing lightweight wheels > all because rotating mass/unsprung weight.

      How to use the single mass m20b25 flywheel instead of the dual mass from the b27 (I understand the two magetic sensors I pulled out of the bell housing are b27-specific so do I use the b27 harness, the b25 harness from the current shell, or just rewire the mess since I'm installing VDO sending units for all the sensors anyway.

      Is it possible to send sensor signals to both MS and the Codrum blutooth unit or is this reduntant?

      Reuse the spec stage 3 clutch or get an FX400 6-puck for more boost.

      Aluminum dual-mass instead?

      Also....dooooooooooooooooown foooooooooooooooooooorce!!!

      The carbon is pretty thin but the rain gets sucked into a wicked cool looking vortex so it's doing something. It needs some vertical ribs along the back of it. Something Kamotors fabbed up for teh lulz.

      I got back to work this morning and a large box was here. Teaser:

      Again, time to learn to weld. I need the IE rear subframe adjustment hardware now...and more cash.
      Last edited by eduTechnic; 03-24-2014, 07:41 AM.
      Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread


        I finally got all the winter crapola out of the garage. Here's my work space when the Odyssey is out soaking up hundreds of degrees of heat.

        Next up is getting this thing stripped nekkid to the bare metal. Before I do though, I want to finish a fun project making this old fridge from the 50s, which I removed from an old lady's place for free, into a proper powder coating oven. My plans are inline with a few other projects posted online mixed with a few redneck DIY oven projects I've seen: Gut the fridge, gut a working oven, and mix evenly.

        Here's the fridge:


        Inner frame for size reference:

        There's the matter of the floor sheet metal being mostly cancerous and the bulge at the bottom (kek) that allowed for the compressor to be mounted to the fridge. Both will need to be cut out and have new sheet metal fitted. I plan to do this after I gut the oven I acquired along with a few drawers full of misc powder coating gear (mask, IR thermometer, plugs, tape, powder, gun) I found for like $80 from some drift guys living the dream.

        After I figure out fitment of the heating elements, I'd like to make covers for the elements to remove the chance of too much local heat around them, build the controls into the top of the "oven," and then line the space where the old fiberglass insulation once was with temp-resistant rock wool and more sheet metal. It worked for the rednecks on YouTube, why not me.

        Next up is jacking up the front a few more inches and getting the two modified HF engine stands/rotisserie ends greased and attached. I have a galvanized fence post I could use to attach the two stands at the bottom but man welding galvanized is awful, probably because my welding, so far, is awful.

        I've started to practice on the 86 shell by cutting out random pieces and using the cheap HF wire welder. I have some decent e7024 and e6013 coming along with some basic welding stuff (helmet, gloves, fire resistant spray for my shop Carhart stuff) so I can stop borrowing my brother-in-law's (BIL) gear.

        Lately I've been hauling the fam down twice a month to help by bro-in-law, a crazy car encyclopedia on wheels that helps me tune the MS, on his '78 280z turbo project, with his fam coming up and returning the favor, which is awesome to have a hand to help with whatever (also down to the frame, build here) Here's my first try on my bro-in-law's Z. This is some firewall rust I cut out and wire welded/flapper wheeled. I wanted to lead what I missed but ran out of time.

        I also found someone who carried out the idea I had in my head for the intake/valve cover. I love white engine components--because they show dirt I can clean all the things.
        Last edited by eduTechnic; 07-02-2014, 10:04 PM.
        Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread


          this looks great! can't wait to see what is to come with your car!! sub'd

          1991 325i


            Awesome! That white valve cover is awesome, do itt!

            '02 ///M3 CarbonSchwartz 6MT daily beast
            08/91 Mtechnic II 325IC alpine/lotus
            318iS, slow build/garage queen...
            '37 Chevy pickup, the ├╝ber project
            Originally posted by roguetoaster
            Be sure to remind them that the M42 is one of the best engines ever made, but be sure to not mention where it actually falls on that list.


              Originally posted by DER E30 View Post
              Awesome! That white valve cover is awesome, do itt!
              Yeah I agree I love that look. If everything is powdercoated it will be easy to see leaks and clean things.

              We had our baby July 4th at 10pm, just as the fireworks started. That gave me 5 week days off plus 2 weekends. While I mostly helped out and cleaned/organized/took care of the bambinos, I got a little work done.

              Welded up the rear rotisserie bar to the bumper mounts. Welds are getting better.


              I'm using this late 80s Century 5 star welder I picked up for $120 with like 80lbs or older rod.


              It's pretty cool. It AC/DC welds and has a high frequency arc stabilizer and tig torch out as well. I've been messing around on difference thicknesses of metal and another rusted out sunroof panel. Stick welding sheet metal is hard! I bought some e7024 "drag" rod to try out and some 1/16" e6013. Here goes nuthin!

              I may have to get a TIG setup at some point. Between a crap HF flux wire welder and the stick, I dont' have ideal options for weldign the sunroof panel back in but I may still try.

              Anyway we got the car jacked up from both ends and were able to slide each end of the rotisserie on. I need to connect each side now, get the dash, HVAC, and wiring harness along with everything that's loose on/in the car and try flipping this thing over.

              Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread


                Well with the new kid here and much less sleep I haven't got as much time as I'd like with the car but I did get some things done.

                I was running off the 2 60w bulbs on the garage door motor and one 60w bulb from a motion-activated light in the garage. Suffice it to say I used a portable flight from Autozone and a headlight a lot. I found 4 sets of 2-bulb fluorescent fixtures and got to some home wiring...which I hate. Luckly the breaker box is right inside the wall the garage and kitchen share and there was a single switch for the outside garage lights. I got them all wired up after an hour in the 140 degree attic and voila.

                It is now bright as the sun and I can see every detail from every angle.

                As far as the car goes the pedal box is now out. HVAC box is out. Wiring harness has a couple dumb things to sort out then will be pulled out as well so I can flip this puppy upside down.
                Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread


                  I started messing around in Photoshop. I'm not a pro but this is some image I found using the wheels I've got and it's in darker lighting but it's close to hennarot.

                  I've sourced an M52B28 out of an auto 528i but I'm still debating sticking with my m20 and going to a built bottom end and non-ebay turbo, just to have all the aftermarket support and accessibility to better manifolds. Trying to resist buying the m54b30 crank someone is selling in FS/FT right now...
                  Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread


                    Pretty psyched about this. It's rotating! I just did a quick test. I still need to connect the ends together underneath. It was pretty unstable and wanted to fall to the passenger side so I kept a jack stand under that frame rail. Just a quick test then off to bed.

                    Pulled the whole harness through the firewall. I took like 10 minutes to untangle everything before I pulled it through only to tangle it worse when it ended up in a pile in the empty engine bay.

                    If you pull your harness, have someone help you in the engine bay and pull it passed the car and lay it all out nice and neat. I untangled it a bit and laid it out behind the car. I need to pin it up on the wall in the shape it sits in like those injection molds of the circulatory system or something. /nerd.

                    Pic of the harness

                    Out of the car

                    Plan is to pull an M50/M50tu/M52 this weekend. We'll see what looks better. I LOVE for pick 'n pull stuff. Thoughts are if the 92 325i doesn't looked too clapped out I'll grab that motor and trans and possibly another long block in the way of an e34 m50tu for the pan/pickup/throttle cable/dipschtick.

                    M54b30 crank + custom pistons & vile temptress.

                    I'm trying to decide between these turbos:

                    Precision PT5558 T3 with 3" outlet


                    Garret GTX3071R

                    Even those Kinugawas look really good for $4-500 less. I just want to do this once.

                    I love how my current turbo works (T3 Td04e .60 ar with 3" inlet/outlet). Great spool, great range, it's just kind of cheap.
                    Last edited by eduTechnic; 07-30-2014, 10:00 AM.
                    Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread


                      sub'd. all these Utah builds ive been finding recently excite me!


                        Originally posted by eurolife View Post
                        sub'd. all these Utah builds ive been finding recently excite me!
                        Welcome to the e30 chubzone.
                        Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread


                          Do you have to do anything to fit the 3L crank to M50 block?

                          (clicky on piccy to get to thread)


                            Originally posted by econti View Post
                            Do you have to do anything to fit the 3L crank to M50 block?
                            No you don't. That's the beauty of it. M50/52/54 all use the same design as far as I know after a few days researching it.
                            Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread


                              Originally posted by eduTechnic View Post
                              No you don't. That's the beauty of it. M50/52/54 all use the same design as far as I know after a few days researching it.
                              Too easy. What do you do with rods and pistons? B30 rods and custom height pistons, to clear the valves?

                              (clicky on piccy to get to thread)


                                Originally posted by econti View Post
                                Too easy. What do you do with rods and pistons? B30 rods and custom height pistons, to clear the valves?
                                Yep you guessed it. I'm trying to figure out a setup to get < 9:1 compression. I'm still calculating but I'd like to go m54b30 crankshaft with custom rods & pistons to get ~8.5:1 CR.

                                This is mostly for myself for future reference but...

                                From wikipedia:

                                M50B25 stroke: 75 mm (3.0 in) bore: 84 mm (3.3 in) CR: 10.0:1 rod Length: 135mm
                                M50B25tu stroke: 75 mm (3.0 in) bore: 84 mm (3.3 in) CR: 10.5:1 rod Length: 140mm (less deck clearance + deeper valve reliefs when compared to the m50b25?)
                                M54B25 stroke: 75.0 mm (2.95 in) bore: 84 mm (3.3 in) CR: 10.5:1 rod length: 135mm
                                M54B30 stroke: 89.6 mm (3.53 in) bore: 84 mm (3.3 in) CR: 10.2:1 rod length: 135mm

                                On this thread there's some cool info on the stock m54b30 setup and OP's aftermarket arrow rod/CP piston combo. With identical piston to deck heights of 3.7mm and deeper valve reliefs he netted 9.2:1 compression.

                                Maybe this same setup (with cheaper H beam rods from IE & CP pistons, Arrows are like $300 each) would work okay but I only have 91 octane here in Utah.

                                All other things aside, we'll see where I'm going once I come back from the pick 'n pull tomorrow with my buddy. We plan on pulling an m50b25 nv from an e36 and an e34 m50b25tu. If the NV block looks good once I strip it down I'll try to stick with the 84mm bore. If it needs work I'll buy the 3.0l crank FS here on r3v & get a quote from the machine shop, which I'll be visiting anyway. This thread is something I just found and find very desirable. To bad the dude didn't update.

                                This link has piston stats to avoid when ordering.

                                I just found out how to get TC working with MS3 when the time comes as well: VSS speed vs. front hub abs sensor. Looks like you can set the threshold difference.

                                Crank/piston/rod details for later reference: Link
                                Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread