phenryiv1's 1989 325iC Project - SETA 2.7i Swap Complete and Running!
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Stage rally/rallycross e30 build/competition journal
Track/street e21 build
visit Condor Speed Shop
visit Motorsport Hardware
[FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"] 1985 318i/M50 Rally Car - 1988 Porsche 924S - 2005 Sequoia tow pig - 2018 GTI -
I went this way because while I thought that I'd like LeMans, I saw the Topas in person and I know that I like that. Rather than paint it Lemans without seeing it in person, I decided to go with what I know I like.
And we got the car fixed. I re-did the inner boot (those crazy bearings) on one side and had no trouble getting it back together but I had to do it 3x to got the outer race and inner race aligned properly. It woudl rotate but only on 1 axis. I flipped it and it had proper movement.
Somehow that also fixed what we thought was diff whine- turned out to be a bad axle.Comment
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Picked up some SS brake lines last night. Not new but in good shape. Not 100% needed but the old lines look so-so and I am swapping out new/reman calipers so I might as well do the lines as well.
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Unnecessary, I know, but I saw a fellow R3V'er making these and since I have my own small fabrication "business" I like to support other people doing similar stuff.
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Loaded up to go to paint tomorrow. All parts are in the bed of the truck and ready to go.
The only issue that I had is that the late valance- even without the "is" lip - scrapes on the ramps when loading and unloading. I was hoping to have the valance painted on the car but it may be just as well to paint it off of the car. If I have to I could install it at the shop and then remove it for the ride home. On the plus side, not having it installed reduces the chances of it being damaged on the initial ride home. I intend to let the paint cure for about a week once the car is home before I take it to the upholstery shop for the top install.
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Car is officially at the paint shop. Head (and internals) are at BimmerHeads being rebuilt. Also parking this here for now:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/imag...9_BMW_only.pdf
I picked up some (more) front turn signals and some silicone radiator hoses for the head (or engine) install.
Unfortunately, paint is going to cost a little more than I had hoped. Painter wants 3 weeks with the car and I am not in a rush. Looks like it might be time to start selling off some parts.
I really want to keep the TRM C1 wheels in case I autoX the car but the chances of doing that are pretty low. I'll hang onto them until I get the car back form paint so that I can see if I like those or the 17" replica wheels better but chances are that the TRMs will be sold. I also have a bunch of spare engine parts that need to go.Comment
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MovedLast edited by phenryiv1; 04-16-2015, 07:58 AM.Comment
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Going through a plastic bumper conversion right now with a friend's 7/89 DB vert. Will post pics to that thread. Some of the hardware is NLA so you'll need to find it used:
- right rear metal bracket
- rear M12x100 T55 head bumper bolts
EDIT: you don't need the metal brackets for a diving board to plastic bumper conversion on a vert, or any of the side mounting hardware for the plastic bumpers
Here's the net of it:
- looks terrific from the rear and top, not terrific from below, especially looking from the sides and front (just behind the rear wheel)
- the lower part of the rear quarter panels are different in 2 ways
a) curvature of the rear quarters below the bumper area - the early model metal valance area on the rear quarters sweeps inwards quite a bit more than the late model quarters, and of course the early model metal valance doesn't extend down as far
b) the vert doesn't have a recessed area in the rear quarters for the bumper to fit into. I think this is why that thread shows people trying to trim back the plastic bits on the bumper and mounting them differently.
We have trial fitted the rear bumper without cutting off the plastic brackets on the sides and it fits well. Will let you know how it works out.
As to the lower view, a body kit like an mtech2 is the obvious solution. lots of examples out there - check fporro's posts. truth is the whole package looks darn good as is though.
Last edited by bradnic; 09-09-2014, 05:30 AM.I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.Comment
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Do you have a picture of the metal bracket that you mention?
Here's the net of it:
- looks terrific from the rear and top, not terrific from below, especially looking from the sides and front (just behind the rear wheel)
- the lower part of the rear quarter panels are different in 2 ways
a) curvature of the rear quarters below the bumper area - the early model metal valance area on the rear quarters sweeps inwards quite a bit more than the late model quarters, and of course the early model metal valance doesn't extend down as far
As to the lower view, a body kit like an mtech2 is the obvious solution. lots of examples out there - check fporro's posts. truth is the whole package looks darn good as is though.
The look from the side is not bad but it does have the small gap at the arch itself:
Definitely let me know how that turns out. Is there a thread up about it?Comment
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here's the left side one from ECS (the right is same bracket with studs welded in opposite holes - so you can buy two lefts and mod one for the right one).
EDIT: bracket not needed.
b) the vert doesn't have a recessed area in the rear quarters for the bumper to fit into. I think this is why that thread shows people trying to trim back the plastic bits on the bumper and mounting them differently.
We have trial fitted the rear bumper without cutting off the plastic brackets on the sides and it fits well. Will let you know how it works out.
1) go mtech2
2) an RD (or replica) rear apron attached directly to the plastic bumper
Having an RD apron on the back and just stock late model front end and IS lip... probably ok. fporro's the master at this. Looks like he added a jimmy hill lip in place of the IS lip in front of his red vert.
Last edited by bradnic; 09-09-2014, 05:31 AM.I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.Comment
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I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.Comment
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41351971597 http://www.ecstuning.com/ES71851/
yeah. only 2 options I've seen there that look ok, but they have pretty major implications for the rest of the car:
1) go mtech2
2) an RD (or replica) rear apron attached directly to the plastic bumper
Having an RD apron on the back and just stock late model front end and IS lip... probably ok. fporro's the master at this. Looks like he added a jimmy hill lip in place of the IS lip in front of his red vert.
Up front I have a stock 'is" lip (being painted to match) and a RyanG splitter. Somewhere in my parts pile I have either that JimmyHill lip or something close to it. I got it off a way-early metal bumper car- I think it was an '85 (but it had all kinds of non-original parts) at the junkyard.
As for the lower side "skirt" area, I don't know the plan. I might texture it and leave it black or I might texture it and have it painted over. Undecided at this point. After the repair is made I will go back to the body shop and we will decide on a final course of action for that area.Comment
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Looks like I need 2 (maybe 3 to be safe) of these...
41351971597
Up front I have a stock 'is" lip (being painted to match) and a RyanG splitter. Somewhere in my parts pile I have either that JimmyHill lip or something close to it. I got it off a way-early metal bumper car- I think it was an '85 (but it had all kinds of non-original parts) at the junkyard.
As for the lower side "skirt" area, I don't know the plan. I might texture it and leave it black or I might texture it and have it painted over. Undecided at this point. After the repair is made I will go back to the body shop and we will decide on a final course of action for that area.
my friend wants to shadowline everything and body color the bottom trim. hasn't pulled the trigger yet, but we did find one example like that, also with 16" 1 piece style 5s:
note how the rocker weld line really stands out. I suppose you could just paint that part a flat black..
I'll stick to my euro bumper conversion and black bottom thank you :-)Last edited by bradnic; 08-28-2014, 10:03 AM.I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.Comment
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