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325IX restore and build continued(turbo, e34ix diff, DCT)

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    Originally posted by Nisse Järnet View Post
    Looking forward to the result! 3.38 is going to be great with the Getrag and M20 turbo!

    Cam sensor is easy fix :)
    I know I can't wait for 3.38s, my first gear is useless right now haha. I've seen a few people build there own cam sensor but I'm a little lost on placement of it. I've seen them in a few different spots on the m20. I really just haven't had time to sit down and do some research though.

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    Looking forward to the result! 3.38 is going to be great with the Getrag and M20 turbo!

    Cam sensor is easy fix :)

    Leave a comment:


  • nomansland92
    replied
    Originally posted by boogle2 View Post
    Oh my god. I go dormant for a few months during the winter (no heated garage = no wrench turning) and the build I planned on following and emulating has turned into the most badass iX build in north america. Jesus. I am so jealous.

    Steve since your power goals have changed dramatically, if you are looking to sell any of your old setup I would be more than happy to take it off your hands.

    This is awesome!
    Haha thanks, as with any turbo project nobody's ever satisfied until to you push the limits. Ya my power goals have changed as we'll as a lot of other things. I'll be using haltech elite with e85 with a flex sensor and hopefully full sequential fuel and spark(if I can get a cam sensor) and with of course the e34 front diff with 3.38 gears :) I not going to be changing to much of my existing setup besides the megasquirt, injectors, and my gfb boost controller.

    The ms2 is built my whodwho but it's a older one and the idle control doesn't work, I think it's a blown transistor or something. I was also having problems with my iat sensor but that may have been a wiring. I'll be selling it cheap. Probably around 300 with WiFi setup.

    The injectors are deka 60lbs. I only put around 5k on them. Probably sell them for around 200ish. I forget what they normally go for.

    And the gfb boost controller is the g force 2 electronic controller. I'd say like 200 bucks for that too.


    Let me know if you want anything but I'm not looking to sell until I get my new parts just in case something comes up. It will probably be late winter when I'll be ready to sell everything. I have to finish the driveline swap before I start the haltech setup and wiring.

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  • boogle2
    replied
    Oh my god. I go dormant for a few months during the winter (no heated garage = no wrench turning) and the build I planned on following and emulating has turned into the most badass iX build in north america. Jesus. I am so jealous.

    Steve since your power goals have changed dramatically, if you are looking to sell any of your old setup I would be more than happy to take it off your hands.

    This is awesome!

    Leave a comment:


  • nomansland92
    replied
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    Are you welding it back together yourself?

    One of the things I've struggled with on my N52 is the fabrication of my pan, I know I could cut it up similar to what you did there (that core piece will help me a lot I think), but I need somebody who can jig it and weld it up for me.
    I don't think I'm going to, I have a tig and I'm OK with it, well at least my turbo manifold is still holding up so that says something haha. But I'm not the best with aluminum especially a contaminated oil pan. There's a local Subaru race shop by me and there welder is very good with aluminum and he said he should be able to do it no problem.
    I'm going to start making the fillers this week and try to find a way to avoid the ground clearance loss then I'll be taking it to get it welded hopefully soon.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T817A using Tapatalk

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  • nando
    replied
    Are you welding it back together yourself?

    One of the things I've struggled with on my N52 is the fabrication of my pan, I know I could cut it up similar to what you did there (that core piece will help me a lot I think), but I need somebody who can jig it and weld it up for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    Yes! Nice work man!
    I think I only had to machine the diameter of the outer CVs, if I remember correctly :P In like 3-4 different places.

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    Did some playing around today. I got the spare driveshaft from another forum member for a spare but it turned out pretty bent. Not sure how anyone could bend one haha bud nothing a press can't fix. I chucked it up in the lathe and gave it a spin. You can clearly see the high spot.



    It was .060 out in the middle, I got it down to .007 when I was done so I'd say it's close enough for me.

    I got the spare because my driveshaft has leghtened splines which don't fit because the diff sits farther back. The good thing is with a stock driveshaft you get a lot more spline engagement with a little modification.

    Also did some cutting with the pan



    325ix meet your new friend 525ix





    Still needs a little more trimming but it's about 1/8 away from were it needs to be. As you can see there is a big hight difference so there will be a little lose of ground clearance.

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    sweet! yeah I have a pan to cut up, but I'm a little afraid to start cutting into it until I have a better plan. Kudos to you for going for it. :)

    are you going to weld on another tab to add a 3rd bolt?
    I'm going to weld a long brace along the top of the diff then built a bracket that will mount to the motor mount that way it will reduce any stress and rotational force on the welds. Well that's the plan atleast,I've got a long ways to go still haha.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    sweet! yeah I have a pan to cut up, but I'm a little afraid to start cutting into it until I have a better plan. Kudos to you for going for it. :)

    are you going to weld on another tab to add a 3rd bolt?

    if you haven't figured it out, the CV shafts are nearly bolt on. You need to transfer the ABS rings, and the face of the stub axles needs turned down a little so it fits into the hubs, but otherwise they are perfect - and I think the slightly longer length is actually a benefit, because when you get really low the stock ix axles bottom out.

    Leave a comment:


  • nomansland92
    replied
    I may need it for a couple weeks just for double checking measurements and alignment but after that its all yours

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  • nando
    replied
    cool! glad you're making use of them - gives me some ideas for my own frankenpan.

    Actually, do you need that ix inner piece? Maybe I could use it to get my frankenpan rolling? I'm sort of doing the opposite, putting an ix front diff on another pan..

    Leave a comment:


  • nomansland92
    replied
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    did I sell you these parts? I can't remember who bought them. lol
    Yep dont they look familiar haha

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  • nando
    replied
    did I sell you these parts? I can't remember who bought them. lol

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    damn this looks crazy, I will have to go through the full thread tomorrow when I get bored at work

    Leave a comment:

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