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325IX restore and build continued(turbo, e34ix diff, DCT)

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    Injectors, coils, and temp sensors all done.

    Also new injectors came in.
    ID1000's.

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    Been wiring away with the new harness. It's almost done, my goal is to start it up this weekend and then schedule the dyno. This run will be one pump gas for now. looks like I'll need to redo my entire fuel system, bigger pump, lines, rail to support e85 so that will be coming later. Hopefully I can get 450 awhp on 93 pump. I'm still debating weather my .75a/r housing will flow enough or to swap to my spare 1.0a/r housing.







    All covered labeled and heat shrunk.

    Cam sensor ready to go also. Thanks to ppf this saved me some time making one from scratch.

    Last edited by nomansland92; 03-25-2016, 09:17 PM.

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    Looks clean!

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    Thanks guys!

    Welded a second bung in for the dyno.


    Also worked on the coil packs.




    Last edited by nomansland92; 03-06-2016, 05:13 PM.

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  • litu
    replied
    Cool :)

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    Nice work!

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    The verex muffler was to quite and it sounded like poo straight piped so I put a resonator on it, sounds perfect now :)



    Also soon goodies came in

    This will start next week.

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    Spring is right around the corner so I need to fix the major issues, like the rear main oil leak and the megasquirt.

    I pulled the transmission this weekend. Also changing to the uuc m5 clutch kit, hopefully it engages better then the spec clutch.



    Never fails to find more rust



    New vs old


    Also when i put the transmission in last year I had problems with the reverse spring blowing out the side because the case was beat up where the c clip fits. My new more permanent fix

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    I'm still new to tuning and I do a lot of it my self and topically motors with lower compression have a higher knock threshold. So if I happen to go a little to wild on my timing at wot that the motor will be a little more forgiving because it can naturally take more timing. Also compined with e85 or meth injection I have a better chance of reaching MBT (maximum break torque) before the onset on knock so I can reach near the full potential of the airflow the motor is capable of at my target boost.

    In the end with lower compression I can run higher boost safer with less chance of knock. Plus knock is the biggest killer of performance motors and not the accually machinical limit of the internals.

    Hope this helps some

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  • boogle2
    replied
    Steve why did you go for 8.5 instead of an 8.8 or a 9? I know the b27 crank is ran with an 8.5 but did you not think it could handle 8.8?

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    As long as you use quality parts it will be reliable as can be

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  • 2002tiiguy
    replied
    i was planning on staying stock compression, and yes, staying low boost, this is my DD, my 74 2002tii will be my toy

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    If your staying low boost you really don't need to drop the compression. If it's your first turbo build and you unsure about tuning and how important timing is then it may be a good idea to run like 8.5:1 for some safety margin.

    I would recommend Ross racing pistons, although I'm not happy with the rods. A good set of s50 rods with arp bolts is probably your best bet, there lighter and stronger then the m20 rods.

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  • 2002tiiguy
    replied
    i need to find a set of pistons and rods for the crank, not sure exactly what i want yet

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  • nomansland92
    replied
    Ross racing pistons from IE engenering. 8.5:1 comp with there 135mm rods.

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