Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey
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No I don't think so. One tube had rust in the threads and the insert was very difficult to remove. After removal I noticed a couple of threads were fairly torn up. The other insert threaded back in nicely without issues. I chased them both anyway and sprayed them with copper anti-seize. -
Did welding the strut tube damage the threads? I want to do the same thing with my bcs. My front swaybar is in a bad position.Leave a comment:
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thanks! yea, probably could still run the 5" spring. Eyeballing it, max height adjustment is actually taller than where I was at with the old adjuster. But as you noted, half the reason I did this whole thing was to gain more travel. I misspoke a few posts ago when i mentioned coil bind... I do not have coil bind, but I do/did have contact between upper and power perches.This is awesome. It looks like you'd probably still be able to run a 5" spring with how much adjustment there is. I have my adjusters all the way down (touching the trailing arm) with 5" springs. I suppose though that part of the goal with this is to have more bump travel, which a 6" spring in the same rate would.Leave a comment:
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This is awesome. It looks like you'd probably still be able to run a 5" spring with how much adjustment there is. I have my adjusters all the way down (touching the trailing arm) with 5" springs. I suppose though that part of the goal with this is to have more bump travel, which a 6" spring in the same rate would.Leave a comment:
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Trailing arm mods done! Just need paint now. Was considering additional reinforcement along the side of the arm that got cut into, but now I think its unnecessary. The tube itself is 1/8" which is heavier than the original stamped steel.
New springs are on order, same rates but a 6" length vs original 5" length. I've got more adjustment range now too and loads of travel. The actual articulating perch assemblies bolt in just in case I ever needed to replace/service any portion.
Almossssst done with fab work. Just need to do the cross reinforcement on the passenger side trailing arm since the first piece I made interferes with the fuel fill hose. God it's going to be great to sweep out the garage and dust everything off. The steel dust is god awful and has gotten EVERYWHERE.
Half done with assembly of a HF standing blast cabinet too :D




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Last edited by Sh3rpak!ng; 07-01-2020, 08:29 AM.Leave a comment:
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Once you work out the kinks, you can go ahead and build me a set of these TA's
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welding really enables bad ideas and projects to come to life which otherwise wouldn't... if you couldn't tell :p
thanks!Leave a comment:
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The more I see from builds like yours and guys that can weld, the more I know I need to just buy a house so I can get a good welding setup and learn to do this type of work. Looks great manLeave a comment:
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Looking good. Havent yet determined final depth. Ill trim the extra metal off the top/bottom tubes once its welded in place. Sorry for the rotated photos.




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thanks glen, me neither. We need to do an "OG supercar sunday drive + neptunes net" soon...
Its nasty!! There's like a pound of it sludged in there!
You know how much I love to make bad ideas come true to reality.Leave a comment:
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I recently hole sawed the trailing arms for airbag brackets on my trailer and was surprised at how much grease there was in there!Leave a comment:



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