Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

[Sh3rpak!ng]

There was a change at some point, BMW switched to one without the spring. Apparently if the seal with the spring wears enough, the spring can contact and gouge the crank. More good reason to do the rear main when you can.

Hmm I thought this was only a problem for the F1/FX racing flywheels, but I guess it's more common than that.

Subframe notch turned out really well.

Have you had that exhaust crank scavenging thing for long? How does it work? I'm scared of filling my exhaust with oil :???:

Interesting, glad to hear that. Strange (or not) that the VR seal had the spring...

Yes I've had the exhaust scavenge for quite a while and no it doesn't fill your exhaust with oil haha. It burns up in the tube. It's widely used among the FI e36 crowd and is common in v8 applications. Basically as the exhaust gas passes a small tube protruding into its path, it creates a moment (exhaust is not steady stream, it's a pulse) of low pressure across the smaller tube which pulls a small vacuum.

Here's a bunch of info on it: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-where-is-best

Hey Charlie I have a e30 abs pump that came from a parts car if you need it.

Thanks you the man!!!

[spiDmang]

Thanks!! I'm loving them both. Two big headaches crossed off the list. When all this crazy work is finished I would consider doing little fab work on the side for people, like modded subframe etc.

Dooooo it man! I bet you can make a killing doing it. Modded/reinforced subframes by Charlie;D

Should i start the group buy now? lol jk....but seriously :up:

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Dooooo it man! I bet you can make a killing doing it. Modded/reinforced subframes by Charlie;D

Should i start the group buy now? lol jk....but seriously :up:

Hahaha we'll see. Arc asylum already does some badass subframe modding.



Acquired another fuel rail, this one from an early obd2 e39 528. It'll allow me to run the fuel rail cover, as well as redirecting the fuel lines both to the back of the motor instead of underneath and has the FPR integrated. Win-win-win. Thanks dave markert for the reminder of its existence.





All stripped down ready to remove the heart.





How I left it last night. Just need to pull it out now.

[marshallnoise]

I don't envy you replacing that wheelhousing. Looking at your pictures reminds me of the difficulty and horrors I went through and I never so much as started to tack it back in!

Pulling for you!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I don't envy you replacing that wheelhousing. Looking at your pictures reminds me of the difficulty and horrors I went through and I never so much as started to tack it back in!

Pulling for you!

Yea, I made an executive decision yesterday not to cut the whole piece out. After looking at it more closely and seeing what a PITA it'll be, I decided to just replace the damaged section. Thanks!



Picked up some parts from the machine shop that services one of the company's cement plants... talk about some big machines. They have a 2 story vertical lathe.

Some tools and a modified selector rod knuckle with a brass bushing. The top tool is to service the 3rd detent next to 5th and reverse. The other two tools are for installing and removing the brass bushing from the selector knuckle after it's been bored out. Potentially I could make a bunch of these.





Brake discs with the center bored out to fit the e30 hubs.





Popped out the motor





Measured crank run out with the new dial indicator and magnetic base. I measured axial clearance at .00325" or .08mm (tolerance is .08 to .163mm). Radial clearance (not sure if I measured this properly - I put the tip of the dial indicator on the outside nose of the crank - pictured below) I saw a .0005" or .0127mm deviation as I spun the crank with a wrench from the other end. I am not sure what the tolerance is for radial clearance on the crank or where it should be measured from. I'll measure this value again to be sure the reading was accurate. I might be able to measure it from the slightly protruding lobe of the crank where it seals against the rear main seal.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Ready to start the wheel well repair tonight.

[jpod999]

Good luck!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Good luck!

Thanks!



Made progress over the weekend.

Picked up a bunch of steel, actually the guy gave me wayyy more than I wanted/needed for a good price. So now I won't need to buy sheet steel again for quite a while.





Drilled out some spot welds and cleaned up the area.





Used the core support to help locate the position of the grafted wheel well





Got my brake supplies and accessories in :)





Tacked in place





Welded





And I finally detailed my e36 after several months of neglect. That's the longest I've even gone without washing it since I bought it. Shameful. But she cleans up nice!!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I'm considering a massive booster delete with an appropriate MC instead of buying a reman 944 brake booster. The massive kit isn't much more expensive and I definitely like the idea of less clutter and a more simplified system. Also after doing a bit of reading, it seems the booster delete when done right feels good compared to boosted, or even better with a BBK. So, since I was already planning on bending new lines, adding a proportioning valve (removing the original), and installing the rx7 bbk, this is a very tempting solution.

Any thoughts/impressions?

[ST1G]

Acquired another fuel rail, this one from an early obd2 e39 528. It'll allow me to run the fuel rail cover, as well as redirecting the fuel lines both to the back of the motor instead of underneath and has the FPR integrated. Win-win-win. Thanks dave markert for the reminder of its existence.

Bingo. Happened upon one of these at the yard. Should go well with the OBDI intake.

Rest of the build is looking great! Making me regret not actually shaving my bay all the way. But time is limited. Can't wait to see how it turns out for you.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Bingo. Happened upon one of these at the yard. Should go well with the OBDI intake.

Rest of the build is looking great! Making me regret not actually shaving my bay all the way. But time is limited. Can't wait to see how it turns out for you.

Yea, its a nice little secret piece! Thanks man. It's definitely a very very time consuming task. I'm kinda hating myself for taking it on, but there's no turning back now. And I know the end result will be worth it.



Fully welded the grafted wheel well into place. I didn't get it 100% perfect, but it's very close so I'm happy. That wasn't an easy task to cut both the replacement section and the existing part to mate up to each other. Trimmed a bunch of unneeded brackets and ground them down. Stripped all the seam sealer off the "pork chop" sections in front of the wheel wells to prepare for a plate of sheet metal. Also sprayed it with copper weld through primer so after I weld the sheet in place hopefully I'll keep rust under there to a minimum.





CAD - cardboard aided design

[pandaboo911]

Is that a reference to project binky? Haha


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[2mAn]

Is that a reference to project binky? Haha

It must be, because thats why I say it

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Is that a reference to project binky? Haha


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It must be, because thats why I say it

Indeed. I'm glad someone got it :)

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Got a bunch of stuff done. Sent the flywheel back to JBR to get a new friction surface and have it fully inspected and balanced. Sent the PP to fort wayne clutch to have it reinforced with thicker/more straps and heavy duty rivets. Ordered a massive booster delete kit just in the nick of time since lee is temporarily closing shop from today until June I think. And ordered a new 19mm/19mm MC out of a 1967-78 vw beetle p/n 113611015BD.


Fully welded the driver side plate




Used state of the art CAD to get the shape for the passenger side which came out perfect




All welded and ground down