Nice work on the 135i wheel, I'm digging it
'89 318i 6 speed m50b32tu turbo swap build
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Pretty simple.
Find the PIDs for rear o2s (0115 for bank 1, 0119 for bank 2) then setup the calculation based on the sensor you're using and save it.
You'll need to modify the voltage thresholds for DTCs for rear o2s that i added to the definitions.RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800Comment
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Ah ok now I understand. I still need to convert my EU ms41.0 to US ms41.2 to get the OBD II functions because the ms41.0 is only OBD I.Comment
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Yep both banks. I have AFR on bank 1 rear O2 and MAP on bank 2.
For front O2s that's the STFTs. LTFT is available but don't see the point in live monitoring or logging.RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800Comment
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Last edited by ba114; 10-30-2016, 01:36 PM.RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800Comment
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Finished setting up my rolling anti-lag implementation yesterday.
Fairly simple implementation:
1. Cut the grey wire going to the IAT
2. Relay wiring
Pin 30 - connect to the grey IAT wire that is still connected to the ECU.
Pin 87a - connect to the grey IAT wire that is still connected to the IAT sensor.
Pin 85 - connect to a ground wire with a switch in it.
Pin 86 - connect to any red/white wire for 12v.
Pin 87 - connect a 60k ohm resistor and then wire tap this into the grey/brown IAT sensor wire.
What this will do is intercept the IAT sensor reading and send a -25c temperature reading to the ECU.
Then you just need to adjust the flash so that your correction tables will retard timing when the IAT sensor is -25c.
I haven't tested this on a running car, however was testing in the garage while logging and on ACC and confirmed that i didnt throw any CELs.RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800Comment
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Video of the confirmed changes:
RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800Comment
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Started getting the PCV side of the setup worked out. I'll be running the stock PCV valve into the intake manifold when under vacuum, and through a catch can back to the turbo inlet when under boost. To get things started i modified the stock M52 PCV valve to incorporate a check valve to prevent boost blowing through.
Cut the end off the PCV valve that normally mounts into the manifold, cut the barbed ends off the check valve, glued it in and re-fitted to the manifold. Simple but should hopefully do the job.
RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800Comment
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Finally ordered and received my clutch setup from vivid racing. To anyone needing something quickly, they got it to me in Australia in 4 days, that's just astounding! Couldn't be happier.
Anyway, I've gone with the clutch masters fx250 with steel flywheel. I wanted something with a bit more weight to it than aluminium to try avoid too much chatter.
The fx250 uses a combination of Button on one side and a heavy-duty Steel Back Organic on the other. Im hoping this should have enough holding capacity while still be street friendly.RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800Comment
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