Chase Bays M54B30 E30 Build

[Chase Bays]

I like where this is headed.

Very nice!

Thanks guys!

So you aren't running anymore hardlines for the brakes?

None. If you've heard its bad for pedal feel then I've heard it too, another one of those car guy rumors we've all heard and disproved. Here's where the truth is in that. If you have stainless braided hose thats NOT secured for 4' feet or more, that can effect pedal feel. Its close to the same for hardline. As long as your line is secured then you're golden. At this point most Formula D, Road Race, and Rally cars out there are running full stainless braided/PVC coated hose successfully.

Interesting brake line setup. I will take a look at them in more detail when you have them available for sale.

Thanks I think! It will happen soon enough.

I had always hoped Chase Bays would introduce e30 products. Subscribed and thank you for helping keep these e30's alive and well!

Thats great to hear, its something we've wanted to do for a long time too.

[gdrumm93]

Nice, this will be super cool for sure!

[AWDBOB]

I remember you, sir, from the Evo platform...

Glad to see you over here. Clean work so far.

[Chase Bays]

This is the continuation of the last post. Just replacing old tired lines with new AN stainless lined nylon race hose and aluminum fittings. This is also a future product. Additionally did some restoration of the OE fuel delivery components.

First thing I did on this day was replace the fuel pump and in-tank wiring for fuel pump. It had been butt connected to and frankly I don’t freaking like that. So I de-soldered the OE wires.



It was replaced using Mil Spec Tefzel Airframe Wire & adhesive heat shrink over the connections.









Looping wires like this, its for strain relief and its officially called “service loops”.



On the factory fuel tank, there are 3 lines (from top to bottom):
• Fuel Tank Vent - Goes to the plastic “evap" reservoir near the filler neck
• Feed Hardline - Welded to the tank, has a short rubber line at fuel pump housing and another rubber line that attaches to the fuel filter. The fuel filter sits just in front of the subframe against the driver side.
• Return Line - Just a rubber hose that attaches to the underbody hard lines and is taped along the fuel tank. From there it attaches directly to the fuel pump housing





Barely fit the fuel pump back into the tank. Used an AEM 320lph pump.



Here is what I did with the above listed hoses
• Fuel Tank Vent - Ran a new hose to where the plastic evap used to be near the filler neck and just dumped to chassis. If you plan to do this make sure it exits higher than the top of the fuel tank. Fuel can dump out of this hose when there is pressure build up.
• Feed Hardline - I cut the welds on the fuel tank to remove this hard line. Ran a new #6AN hose along the same valley the hard line was formerly welded up to the new Fuel Filter. Then a hose will run directly from this to the Engine Bay. Formerly there was 5 pieces to the Fuel Feed hose but now there is just 2.
Return Line - I eliminated the underbody hard line with one really long #6AN hose from tank to engine bay. It routed the same and the feed & return were tapped to the fuel tank with better higher quality tape than the OE used.

I hope that made sense. Here was the finished look. Much cleaner.



Now onto mounting the FuelLab 10 Micron Fuel Filter. I had to make this little oval 90º bracket



And installed





For securing the fuel line to the chassis, the factory stays worked perfectly with less than 5 seconds of reworking. One side was simply bent flat to compensate for added width. Lower is before, upper is after.



Did the old classic zip tie trick. One zip tie 80% tightened, then one in the middle to take up the 20% slack and create some space between the two lines. Looks cool too. I did this every foot or so then applied the aforementioned fuel line stays.







Don’t over tighten those stays. It can pinch the hose. Unfortunetely not pictured is the brake line I forgot to route alongside the fuel lines. I will take a photo of that soon.

[Chase Bays]

Deleting the many spot welded brackets in the engine bay can leave some undesirable pits in the engine bay. Luckily mine weren’t too bad, nothing a light coat of Evercoat body filler wouldn’t fix.

Step 1 was scuff it up, find imperfections, then primer. If you look closely you can see the pits in front of the shock towers.



Filler applied



Filler sanded



Sanded down and re-primered. It was finally ready for final wet sand, cleaning, and paint.





LOOKED GOOD RIGHT?!



nope.





It was too cold to be paint, I got antsy. But it was a good chance to reassess. Teal is the best color for the engine bay. Its been our logo color since 2007 so I feel its just right.

Kind of a rapid fast forward of 2 months here. And this brings us to current instead of back posting. The teal is a tough color to photo, 50 shades of teal and whathaveya. In person its EXACTLY our logo color. Suuuppeerrr stoked on it.



Put on the front suspension real quick

[ak-]

Diggin' it.
Are you going to convert the rail, feed/return to -AN fittings? Something I wanted to do in the future, but haven't dabbled with ideas yet.

[jpod999]

I'm trying to get this all straight in my head...after that crossover brake line you have a another flexible line going straight to the caliper bypassing the trailing arm hard line. Is that correct or did I read wrong?

[ncrmtrsprtsE30]

nice Chase! I need that fuel line setup man! lol

[rzerob]

I really like the color of your engine bay. Are you going to paint the whole car that color?

[Chase Bays]

Diggin' it.
Are you going to convert the rail, feed/return to -AN fittings? Something I wanted to do in the future, but haven't dabbled with ideas yet.

Not for now, keeping the stock rail. Its a clamp attachment under runner #6, so its stealthy. Also has somewhat of a barb stock from the OE "quick disconnect"

I'm trying to get this all straight in my head...after that crossover brake line you have a another flexible line going straight to the caliper bypassing the trailing arm hard line. Is that correct or did I read wrong?

Exactly. On both sides. I will share some photos of that soon.

nice Chase! I need that fuel line setup man! lol

haha yep all that its waiting on is me to find a universal 90º bracket like the one I made. I don't want to draw it out and have it manufactured for something thats already out there. Then its ready for purchase.

I really like the color of your engine bay. Are you going to paint the whole car that color?

It was a major battle in my head to figure that out. So I let instagram decide. They voted beige similar to my S13 240sx.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BF1UHzHFvC7/?taken-by=chasebays

[CorvallisBMW]

Awesome, sub'd. I love clean bays :)

[Chase Bays]

Now is the fun part!

Can't wait to build my 2002



Bad picture but here is the rear brake line replacement you guys have been asking about



Another product, rack hard line replacements. Still battling with some fitment issues under the engine.





Gold foil turned out aight. I've never seen an install without wrinkles.



Spec Clutch is local to us and its what I've run in every car I've built!







Quick brake line shot



Rack Lines and AN adapters installed into rack for our Power Steering Kit



I didn't even intend to put the engine in, because I was alone. But I drank a Dunkin Donuts Medium Iced Coffee and got hype. So in it went.











So stoked on this! With the Arc Asylum Subframe and Rear Sump Oil Pan I had to drop the subframe back down about 6" to get the corner of the oil pan to clear the steering rack. No big deal just didn't know. Also, wish I knew to put the bolts for the steering rack in from the bottom instead of the top. They're locked in unless you pull the engine up a few inches. This is probably common knowledge to you guys.

ANOTHER product I am working on is Tucked Radiator. As we all know there isn't much room in the engine bay with an inline 6. This radiator mounts about 3" closer to front of chassis under the core support. All while retaining mega cooling power. The only con is, if you have AC you'd have to move it forward or do something aftermarket. And if there is AC and an Intercooler...well I haven't quite figured that out yet. There is so little room on these with the factory air dam.

[Pootis]

Are you sure you want to pain this beige??

[Chase Bays]

Are you sure you want to pain this beige??

I don't know, depends when you ask haha. What do you think?

[Pootis]

My vote would be all teal, the color combo you have teal with black, or something like teal with Sparkling Graphite Metallic like this M3