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Chapter 3 - 84 318i m-tech - M60 powered.

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    Quick update , still tying to figure out what to do with brakes . They work, but I am still not too happy with performance and stopping power.

    Car made a fairly longish round trip to Belmont to meet Kronus and Julian , 270 miles round trip without any issues . Just had to watch the running temperature as I haven’t yet installed vdo senders and gauges . Current gearing is 3.15 with undersized tires being 225/45 so my speedo is off by 5.2 mph according to gps at 80 mph.

    Good news is Turner sent me a fixed oil flange adapter to install the oil temp sender, so one step closer to having accurate working oil and coolant temp gauges. The original one was drilled and tapped to wrong size, they made a bad batch but quickly rectified the issue once I reached out to them. Great company !

    Traded my vinyl black seat for houndstooth back seat so it’s now matching my door panels :)
    Last edited by Jean; 10-29-2018, 12:12 PM.
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

    Comment


      bbkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
      We're in deep now boys
      1988 325i SETA - Daily driver
      1988 340iL - Track car
      My M60 V8 swap thread here
      [oo==OO==oo]

      Comment


        how would you say your gas mileage is with the v8?

        Comment


          Originally posted by dasmanschaft012 View Post
          bbkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
          for real tho
          cars beep boop

          Comment


            Originally posted by jeenyus View Post
            how would you say your gas mileage is with the v8?
            Got about 21mpg on the 270 mile trip , keeping average speed around 75mph with a handful of full throttle sprints here and there and some stop and go .
            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

            Comment


              Originally posted by dasmanschaft012 View Post
              bbkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
              Originally posted by kronus View Post
              for real tho
              Yes, it’s going to happen . Just need to go over details on what clears what, and what masters I’ll need etc .
              Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



              OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

              Comment


                Originally posted by Jean View Post
                Yes, it’s going to happen . Just need to go over details on what clears what, and what masters I’ll need etc .
                hmm i think you should get the brakes working closer to stock first *shrug*
                Build Threads:
                Pamela/Bella/Betty/325ix/5-Lug Seta/S60R/Miata ITB/Miata Turbo/Miata VVT/951/325xi-6

                Comment


                  Haha yes ! That would be nice
                  Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                  OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                  Comment


                    Jean, what issues are you having with the brakes exactly? I’m planning out my swap and haven’t decided if I want to go with manual titlton brakes or the remote booster location.

                    Does the pedal just not feel right or is it an air pocket issue?

                    Comment


                      Required pedal force is MUCH higher with manual brakes vs booster.
                      I would recommend bumping the front cyl size up one and rear down one, compared to what garagistic recommends. I had lots of issues bleeding my Wilwood set up. Now that its bled, I have Rx7 calipers front, stock rear, and Hawk DTCs. It stops decent now but still requires quite a bit of pedal pressure. I'd recommend trying a local manual brakes car.
                      We're in deep now boys
                      1988 325i SETA - Daily driver
                      1988 340iL - Track car
                      My M60 V8 swap thread here
                      [oo==OO==oo]

                      Comment


                        Hey guys,

                        There is no air in the system, itÂ’s been bled many times and I had initially a bad out of the box front wilwood master cylinder . IÂ’ve also taken this car to a local scca champ that races an older tube frame corvette with manual brakes to compare the feel . HeÂ’s driven my car and then we did calculations of the wilwood Mc sizes and stock e30 caliper piston sizes, etc and determined itÂ’s just not a good match . The pedal force required to stop my car is more than 2x the amount compared to his corvette .

                        I completely understand and expect that it will require more pedal force than stock setup , I am not arguing that . The fact of the matter is that this recommended wilwood pedal box and Mc sizes are NOT a good match for stock e30 calipers . If you simply remove your stock booster and single BMW MC and replace it with manual pedal box with two 5/8 size master cylinders all other thighs being equal you end up with brakes that work worse than stock.

                        So, having said that my next step is to try more aggressive pads and if that doesn’t work then I have go with big brake kit , as there simply isn’t an easy way to double front caliper piston size on these cars while still staying with 4lug (my wheel selection requires me to stay with 15” diameter 4x100) .

                        IÂ’ve been chatting with Massive Lee to see what route I should take, and in the process of test fitting his front big brake kit templates against my current wheels (requires 3-5mm spacer) for caliper clearance .

                        So, this is why I donÂ’t recommend this wilwood setup all other things being equal. It also puts a lot of extra force on your firewall that I donÂ’t see anyone reinforcing when going with this pedal setup. Stock setup does not put as much stress as manual pedal box since booster part of the system .

                        If I was going to do this again, I would use the remote e32/34 booster mounted behind headlight vs manual pedal box. If you are set on using manual pedal box then IÂ’d recommended reinforcing firewall and get ready to try different pads and calipers just to get the same performance as you had with stock setup! Which is pretty bad if you ask me.

                        Otherwise another option is to use a Tilton floor mounted pedal box as IÂ’ve mentioned before, it gives you better serviceability than wilwood , it has better fit and finish and less play in the pedal assembly compared to wilwood . YouÂ’ll want to build a reinforced floor section for it vs. reinforcing the firewall and will still need to work out caliper piston sizes vs master cylinders .

                        Hope this helps .
                        Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                        OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                        Comment


                          BMW used 12" brakes inside 15" wheels on the E32's & E34's. I don't know what the caliper piston sizes are right off, but my dad does as he just installed E34 540i brakes on his E24.

                          What rotors/calipers do you have on the car now?

                          Comment


                            Yes, e24/28 have a popular and easy upgrade path to use e32/34 brakes ...e30 does not .
                            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                            Comment


                              That's an example of what can fit.
                              Check out www.wilwood.com and start looking at their rotors. They have 12.2" units for $80.

                              Comment


                                Jean,

                                Alpina and I think Hartge as well used Mercedes front calipers (if I recall off a W201?) with larger front rotors. This was 280mm and fit beneath a 16” rim. Not sure if you could squeeze that setup beneath a 15”.

                                My old PRO3 car has bad flex in the firewall and caused all sorts of brake/clutch issues. We did end up welding a reinforcement plate over it, and then used a larger brake booster. I forgot what it came off of, but I believe it was a 5 series.

                                I’d be careful about trying to make adjustments to braking torque via harder pads. The system needs to dissipate heat quickly, so a smaller but harder compound pad then what you need is going to lead to possible brake failure. I’d really encourage you to go big brake. We’ve been going with the Wildwood setup in the racecars and haven’t seen any issues. And these are everything from M20-S54, so wide range of speeds.

                                If you want, we can chat by phone sometime to see if we can figure out a solution.


                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                                1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
                                2016 Ford Flex
                                2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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