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Project Weißer Regen: 91 318iS Restomod
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As you've not built the engine yet, I'd recommend that you use the 1993-5 E36 318iS or 318Ti front timing case. After quite a few idler gear failures on the earlier engine, BMW replaced the idler gear with a curved guide rail in 9/93. The idler gear itself can shit it's bearings but also, the lug that the gear bolts into can break away from the casing. I've seen both. You'll pay buttons for a used later E36 timing case - the chain and gears are the same.
The part number is 11141739699 and it looks like BMW used it to supersede the older type like yours.
An M44 one won't do as they have no mounting lug for the TDC sensor.
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Originally posted by Jordan View Post
Wow! I need a lot of those for my own car (particularly for the driver door jamb), ahead of the body & paint work it'll be receiving this spring. My car was also produced in 6/1990. Given you worked with him to produce these as a one-off, would it be OK to print another batch of some of those stickers?
1991 BMW 318i (Old Shell RIP, Now Being Re-shelled & Reborn)
1983 Peugeot 505 STI
1992 Volvo 240 Wagon
2009 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD
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Originally posted by The Reverend Bluejeans View PostAs you've not built the engine yet, I'd recommend that you use the 1993-5 E36 318iS or 318Ti front timing case. After quite a few idler gear failures on the earlier engine, BMW replaced the idler gear with a curved guide rail in 9/93. The idler gear itself can shit it's bearings but also, the lug that the gear bolts into can break away from the casing. I've seen both. You'll pay buttons for a used later E36 timing case - the chain and gears are the same.
The part number is 11141739699 and it looks like BMW used it to supersede the older type like yours.
An M44 one won't do as they have no mounting lug for the TDC sensor.
Originally posted by freeride53 View PostWow! I need a lot of those for my own car (particularly for the driver door jamb), ahead of the body & paint work it'll be receiving this spring. My car was also produced in 6/1990. Given you worked with him to produce these as a one-off, would it be OK to print another batch of some of those stickers?
The doors and front valance got paint on the inner sides today, man do they look scrumptious! Imperiale Collision tells me the exterior of the car should get paint next week! I can't wait!
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What the proper way to paint these things? Doors, hood etc separate first, bolt them and then spray over bolts etc?
I’m going to repaint mine come spring and don’t know if I should have them paint the door jamb and back of fenders, install/align doors, hood, trunk etc before the paint and that paint the whole thing. Thank you
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Properly after original would be the paint the doors, hood and trunk off the car, back side / jam out first then a careful backmasking to paint the exterior sides. Once done rehang carefully on the vehicle.
You can then mask and paint the mounting hardware if you like. In my case I have all new or replated hardware and I am going to simply run them exposed.
In the fender jams it is proper to paint over the hardware. Same with the bolts that fasten the fenders to the valance.
I also went has Imperiale go into extra detail recreating the seam sealer beads where the fenders meet the cowl, and where the squared off tip of the fenders meet the nose panel at the front as it was originally.
Nose panel without any seam sealer
With seam sealer smeared in the gap to minimize its appearance.
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Originally posted by Jordan View PostProperly after original would be the paint the doors, hood and trunk off the car, back side / jam out first then a careful backmasking to paint the exterior sides. Once done rehang carefully on the vehicle.
You can then mask and paint the mounting hardware if you like. In my case I have all new or replated hardware and I am going to simply run them exposed.
In the fender jams it is proper to paint over the hardware. Same with the bolts that fasten the fenders to the valance.
I also went has Imperiale go into extra detail recreating the seam sealer beads where the fenders meet the cowl, and where the squared off tip of the fenders meet the nose panel at the front as it was originally.
Nose panel without any seam sealer
With seam sealer smeared in the gap to minimize its appearance.
I also noticed that OEM used some sort of tape on the joint where the fender meets the cowl (horizontal joint, inner part of the fender) and them painted over it. Do you know what tape can reproduce that OEM tape?
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Originally posted by Jordan View PostI am well aware of the idler gear issue that the early M42's have but realistically the likelihood of it occurring is minuscule at best and I would much rather keep the original timing case casting for originality sake.
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