E30 the biowaste - metamorphosis to M52

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  • digger
    replied
    Originally posted by AWDBOB

    That is an incredible value for what it is- wish someone offered that service for an 885.
    Pretty sure Rama has a digitized 885 that he gets done by CNC place (iirc it is RAMS)

    but who says that RRD stuff is any good?

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  • AWDBOB
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta
    That is an incredible value for what it is- wish someone offered that service for an 885.

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  • moatilliatta
    replied


    This is next on my todo list.

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  • digger
    replied
    Originally posted by hasa

    I know some racer fellows who have similar engines having 350-380 bhp depending on details. Even the 350 bhp would help me to next level.
    You're definitely going to need to turn at least 8000-8500 rpm with "only" 2,853 cc and so probably would want a ATI super damper

    What fuel will you use? E85 ?

    The power is in the cylinder head, induction system and camshaft(s). The cylinder head is going to need some "work" have you flowed it and measured the cross sectional areas from a baseline before sending it off?

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  • hasa
    replied
    Originally posted by digger
    How many powerz do you want?
    I know some racer fellows who have similar engines having 350-380bhp depending on details. Even the 350bhp would help me to next level.

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  • digger
    replied
    How many powerz do you want?

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  • hasa
    replied
    After season 2024 I came to conclusion that my path with M20 engine platform is done. I'm 100hp behind my competitors and there are two main scenarios how to catch that: going 24v or 2.0 litre turbo. I know by experience that turbos bring lot of challenges to heat management and it is hell to drive, so my choise is 24v, specially M52 aluminium block.

    I started by sourcing used M52B25 and dismantled it to pieces to understand the basics. Head went to porting process.

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    Nikasil block was worn out ( deck height 210mm btw ) so I purchased new block with iron liners

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    Engine basic specs will be

    85,8 stroke
    84 bore
    2850cc
    Forged pistons
    140mm H-beam rods
    Cat Cams valvetrain
    M3 itb intake system with adapter
    Headers

    I'm still struggling to invest to dry sump but all experts recommend that because engine likely needs to rev up to 9000. There is lot to learn. All information is appreciated!

























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  • hasa
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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  • hasa
    replied
    Season is over. Time for repairs and upgrades.

    Attached Files

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  • hasa
    replied
    Just a bait for the search engines: Toyo R888R was 2 sec slower per lap than Kumho V70a. Both 235/40-17.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Looks to be about right based on a backwards-math BHP number. I see in the 220-230whp with setups like yours, so if you add 20%, you should be 260-276 at the wheels.

    I just don't like it when they scale the graphs like that. Makes you have to read the hp and tq independently - that's not a "real-world" graph IMO, since the numbers should cross at 5252rpm.

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  • hasa
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	61AB5B0C-DB8A-4D9B-B1EB-9091B69672A9.png Views:	0 Size:	194.8 KB ID:	10065266 Dyno day result was something I expected from log data. 3 degrees more ignition advance gained 10hp compared to my guesstimates. Values are bhp as we tend to measure. Unfortunately raw whp is not included in graphs but numbers aren’t comparable between dynos anyway.

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  • hasa
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta
    Could you run 12v to the sensor?
    In theory I could. I'm using currently British engine management product DTA (model S60) which supports also hall sensors. But problems with hall sensors are another story, they are sensitive to heat which can cause sometimes troubles.








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  • moatilliatta
    replied
    Could you run 12v to the sensor?

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by hasa
    I have also been debugging the crank trigger problem. New sensor made no difference, but then I increased the air gap up to 1.85mm and engine ran well to the redline 7500rpm
    I've noticed aftermarket ECU's don't like the air gap too tight. The stock ECU doesn't like it too far away (in fact, likes it best almost touching). Often times when installing a plug and play, I will have to fudge the sensor bracket.

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