Loving the progress!
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My e30 Project... Mtech II sedan, Jlines, Vaders, M50 and much more...
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So I made some more progress today. For the most part, from the front fenders back it is ready for primer. I have a few spots with filler to fix, then do one more surface sand then it is ready for primer.
Here are the pics
Rear dings being worked on
Trunk dings and rear dings painted black. You paint it black, because black shows imperfections the most. So what you do is spray a self etching primer, and then black paint
This ding was sticking out, I popped it in
This filler was wavy before, fixing that
Fixing dings on drivers side
I got this joint pretty good, I added a little more filler after
How it sits as of now
Always wear protection!
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Ohh, that makes sense. I was planning on doing that when I do the blocking primer, but I guess I should be doing it now also. The guide coat will help you see if it is wavy or smooth right? Thank you BTW, do you have any other advice?
Originally posted by e30this View Postlooks good, but your suppose to spray a light mist of black over the spot you fixed. not a whole coat.
Its called a guide coat.
Suppose to look like this. ( my first e30 I did. )
either way nice work.
keep it up, hope to see it painted soon.
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Originally posted by motorsports_3 View PostBTW, do you have any other advice?
Use a sanding block and make sure it is 2-3 inches bigger then the spot your sanding.
This will allow you to smooth that spot out with out getting low and high spots around it.
just let your sanding block glide over it in a X pattern.
Go to your local auto body shop and buy a set of blocks call durablock.
Best ones you can get and they work amazing.
eBay Motors: 6 DURA-BLOCK/Durablock Hand Sanding Refinishing Blocks (item 190240519091 end time Aug-04-08 18:55:36 PDT)
These are good for trunks, roofs, hoods and doors.
eBay Motors: Durablock 4410 30" hand block for self adhsv sandpaper (item 120238434463 end time Aug-23-08 11:29:24 PDT)
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Ok. I will start doing that on the dings that I thought I had finished. What grits should I use if you don't mind me asking. I am starting off with 120 and ending with 220. Also should I block it from the start or just to finally smooth out the filler? I hope I am not bothering you with questions, onreLly appreciate your help.
Originally posted by e30this View PostDont sand the spots you put putty on with the DA.
Use a sanding block and make sure it is 2-3 inches bigger then the spot your sanding.
This will allow you to smooth that spot out with out getting low and high spots around it.
just let your sanding block glide over it in a X pattern.
Go to your local auto body shop and buy a set of blocks call durablock.
Best ones you can get and they work amazing.
eBay Motors: 6 DURA-BLOCK/Durablock Hand Sanding Refinishing Blocks (item 190240519091 end time Aug-04-08 18:55:36 PDT)
These are good for trunks, roofs, hoods and doors.
eBay Motors: Durablock 4410 30" hand block for self adhsv sandpaper (item 120238434463 end time Aug-23-08 11:29:24 PDT)
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I start with 80 to cut into the surface for the bondo. Then spread the bondo on. ( evercoat Z-grip actually. ) Then when it starts to dry I cut the top open with 80 so air gets to the rest of the bondo so it dries a little faster and is easier to sand.
I block sand with 120 then 220 then I mix more bondo and put a really light coat over that same spot just to fill in the scratches and stuff. You can use evercoat glazing putty too.
Dont use spot putty.
Then I block it with 320.
I spray 2 heavy coats of primer sealer then spray my guide coat.
block it again with 320 and fix any problems you see, if nothing shows then spray 1 more coat and block it with 400.
I usually wet sand the area Im painting with 400 before I spray color.
if your going to spray the red again make sure all the black is gone before you spray.
since you put a lot of work into the car now I would seal the whole car and spray a guide coat then block it with 400 just to make sure you didnt miss anything.
if all it good wash the car with a mild soap let it dry. mask all your areas and clean it with a degreaser and then take a tack cloth to it and spray color.
Paint cost to much to have to go back and do it again.
I speant almost 600 on supplies just to paint my engine bay.
one quart of paint was about 150. :hitler:
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Well i just finished a little work today. Couldnt get much work done with school and it getting dark.
Instead of painting the primed spots pure black I was supposed to mist it on, so i did that and fixed the small spots.
Here are pics with most of them done
The roof not quite smooth
Found another ding
The hood
Sanded the front fenders
Started smoothing out the fron bumper
I also found the dings on the back fender pass side and the passenger roof side not smooth so i added more filler and am leting it and the hood ones dry until tomorow.
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Working on some of the dings
The roof
The ding on the rear 1/4
The other ding on the drivers side
Sanding down the hood
Primed the hood dings
Wet sanding the dings
The front valence was really bad with rock chips so I sanded it down to metal
Primed it
When you have bubbles or paint lifting you have to sand down to bare metal
Now I primed it
Picked up the paint supplies
Working on the bumper. There was a crack on it
I put filler in it
Working on the drivers side rear wheel well
Smoothing out the MT2 door pods
Sanding the sun roof
I also sanded the side skirts
For prep work what I have left it the rust repair, molding in the antenna, preping the rear valence, the rear spoiler and back bumper, and the finishing touches on the last few dings.
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Originally posted by e30this View Postbad bad. this will get you low spots.
always sand with a sanding block.
you will get waves in your paint like this.
Doh! Ill go back over those spots to make sure they are fine. I hope i didnt mess them up. Thank you again, I would hate to have painted the car then found this out.
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