Japandrew73's OEM Euro Restore
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Thanks for the constructive criticisms and advice to those of you who aren't assholes. My computer had a fried video card so there were random pixels everywhere which I could live with, but then the bluetooth connection pooped out and I have a bluetooth keyboard and mouse so I pretty much had a paperweight of a computer. I haven't been updating the last few days due to the fact I've been using my Windows '98 computer - not exactly ideal. My new computer came in the mail courtesy of ebay and all is well again.
I picked up the e30 m3 center section. I didn't realize it was only a center section, I thought it went straight from the down pipes to the rear end of the car but now I see i'll need an e30 m3 muffler. That's alright though. The center section I have now is in really good condition (it's solid - no rust) it just needs some cleaning and paint. What you see is two pipes, each pipe has it's own cat (2 cats) and once each pipe has been through its cat, it reaches the center muffler. It's pretty cool how the exhaust flows on it. And since it's from an e30 M3 it will be quiet, but aggressive when it needs to be, but not like a rice-rocket. So an entire M3 exhaust system is the plan for now. Stock headers will remain on until smog... we'll see if different headers go on after smog.
Oh and I forgot to mention, I did a local pickup to get the center section and it turned out being the husband of my middle school PE teacher haha It's a small world.


I took the advice and got the lower timing cover off. I didn't want to open the lower timing cover since I don't have the 4 foot wrench to do it. So I loaded the block in my friends 64' Chevy pickup and took it down to the local mechanic and with a quick hissing of the pneumatic socket wrench it was off and then it was driven back to the engine stand where it could be assessed.

I have to admit it was a good call on you guys' part. First off it's good since I can get the lower timing cover bead-blasted and repainted properly (without masking off), second, when the gasket for the crank case nut was removed, it crumbled in my hands, so it will be good to replace that along with the seals and gaskets the entire cover holds (I will now have completely new gaskets and seals on the entire engine), but third of all because of the guide rails
The red one heavily worn and the black one also worn and cracking



The new guide rails have been ordered along with a few other things to go inside the timing cover.
All pistons cleaned except for 2.

Got the Distributor Cap cover that covers all the way up to the ignition wire harness (the stock one covers just to the top of the distributor cap). The distributor cap needs to be replaced and when you buy a new one you get the little cover you see on top of the cap in this picture.

Lower Timing Cover Bead-Blasted

And this refers to the Alpina Graphic picture I posted a few times ago. (If you can't do a bit of googling on the 333i and put the pieces of the puzzle together after showing this picture, you might be retarded)

Tomorrow morning I think i'll have the time to drop everything off at the cold-tanking shop and then a bit of primer, an oven, some paint, and they'll be looking brand new!Comment
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Andrew, you are taking a risk failing your CARB test with that exhaust. They don't care what's AFTER the cat, but they sure do care what CAT is on there and what's before the cat.
Good working on cleaning the enigne up! Glad you took my advice on doing those guides huh? :)Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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Yep I primarily talking to you and a few others but your PM explaining the part numbers I sent you made if very easy. Thanks again!
What do you mean about failing the CARB part of it though? Are you talking about if one of the cats in this center section is faulty it could ruin the smog test? The guy who sold it to me is nice, lives locally, and seemed very honest so hopefully he was correct in saying it functions great. He created a track e30 m3 so he just removed his entire exhaust to aftermarket crap.Comment
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Your guides have more wear on them than what came out of my engine with 160k miles dude, maybe check the bearings too ;)
You need to read up on the rules for the swap if you plan on getting it through BAR... the exhaust all the way to the cat needs to be from the car the engine is from. No modifications. You'll fail visual, they won't even bother checking if it passes smog.Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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you have risen a page in my book, good work keep it up and thank you for listeningComment
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Props on this build Andrew. I've read most of this thread and I'm impressed. I'm in high school too, Junior year (blows big time, and speaking of which I should probably start this homework), and I could definitely not be doing alot of the stuff you are.
so props and don't listen to the haters just do your thing and this car will come out real nice.Comment
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My money says he'll be fine. Those cats are OEM BMW pieces, which means they'll have a BMW logo on them. Most smog shops and even BAR referees are going to just see the logo, see that they match the general condition of the rest of the car, and assume they're correct.
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You should make a plate that covers the original tb hole in the intake and then cut a hole in the other side so it will look like the original alpina intake mani. Then you should make another one and give it to me.Originally posted by LJ851I programmed my oven to turn off when my pizza was done, should i start a build thread?
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