The Ecobeamer

[formyhealth]

Don't know if this was asked already but did you bench bleed the hydraulic tob outside of the car? they are notorious for being difficult to bleed. Otherwise, I have a very low mileage 6 speed MT82 that would bolt right up to that block.. I was going to use it for my ecoboost project but as you know I went a different route.

[gnmzl]

That's a bummer, holley basically told you you are screwed, because they didn't square their sh*t with the supplier? Cheeky
Could you bolt the clutch onto the flywheel (while it's bolted to the engine which in turn is secured in place safely) and then use a spare tob or something similar to engage the pressure plate and see what's going on?

[moatilliatta]

Try calling Holley, some one probably makes it for them?

[hkv]

ive got a few days to see about that spacing the pressure plate out more solution so im gonna setup things in the press and see how much extra space it would take for it to release and if its not much it would probably be a good route to get this going but if it takes allot of extra space I would worry about clamping force.

[hkv]

Does the springs go towards the flywheel?

Clutch disk backwards?

no I tried that and there isn't enough clearance to install it like that and I even thought about the possibility of modifying the clutch disc to make it fit but I think the splines would barely be engaging on the input shaft that way anyways. believe me that's the first thing I tried when I pulled the pressure plate off haha

[hkv]

If you can increase the space between the pressure plate and FW friction disks, it will release. I had a similar situation when a driver blew out TWO clutches in our car during a long enduro. We had to go and borrow parts from nother teams. Well, the disk we ended up with was thicker than the brand we had in the car, so the release was terrible. Didn't realize it until we got back and replaced with a new kit, but the springs on the outer ring of the different brands of disks were directly related to the thickness of the disk (more springs put the PP friction disk too close to the FW).

Might be able to take the FW to a machine shop and I have them take a few thou off the friction surface - good idea to use a press and find the travel, too.

see that had crossed my mind except I was thinking about going at it a different way by using washers to space the pressure plate out a tiny bit because the pressure plate isn't directly bolted to the flywheel, there's cylindrical spacers that the bolts go through that space the flywheel out, apparently not enough. I could even turn some new spacers(that would be the proper way compared to washers) but what concerns me about that route is the possibility of reduced clamping force. naturally you would want to only space it out only the distance necessary that would allow it to release to prevent that and as the clutch wears you get even more release area.

so the possibility of reduced clamping force is what Im worried about, maybe where the pressure plate sits before its been bolted down would give me some indication of that? you think it may take as little as a few thousands to fix the issue?

[moatilliatta]

Does the springs go towards the flywheel?

Clutch disk backwards?

[ForcedFirebird]

If you can increase the space between the pressure plate and FW friction disks, it will release. I had a similar situation when a driver blew out TWO clutches in our car during a long enduro. We had to go and borrow parts from nother teams. Well, the disk we ended up with was thicker than the brand we had in the car, so the release was terrible. Didn't realize it until we got back and replaced with a new kit, but the springs on the outer ring of the different brands of disks were directly related to the thickness of the disk (more springs put the PP friction disk too close to the FW).

Might be able to take the FW to a machine shop and I have them take a few thou off the friction surface - good idea to use a press and find the travel, too.

[hkv]

heres what im talking about



you can see where the pressure plate fingers were bottoming out on the clutch disc, theres no way its gonna release like that. and I don't see how else those scratches could have gotten there because they weren't there before.

I called holley today and the tech I talked too said I "probably got mismatched components" and that they "no longer sell that line of clutches or support them and have severed ties with the company that made them for them" the dragon claw clutch line only came out in like 2016 and I told him that and he said that yeah they stopped and severed ties with the manufacturer so I think from that we can assume that something fishy happened and that I got screwed with a messed up clutch kit.

he said they were going to give a refund and that its gonna take 1-3 days to email me a return shipping label. so now im now in a position were Ive got to figure out what im gonna do about a clutch setup.
I may mess around with the pressure plate in my shop press and see if I can get it to release just out of curiosity but I really doubt this system is gonna work so im planning to return it.

thanks for making me waste a ton of time and money on master cylinders trying to figure this problem out holley! I gotta give them a break though because they probably got screwed in this situation too and they were kind enough to offer me a refund so they are taking care of me in that sense.

[hkv]

Does it need a clutch stop? Is the bottoming out causing dragging issue, or is the clutch not releasing?

the clutch would not release whatsoever, trying to put it into 1st from neutral with the car on the ground and engine running resulted in the car creeping forward.

[hkv]

You are not a fool, mad genius, maybe, r3v hero pioneering an ambitious swap, definitely.

haha your too kind, rev hero huh? that could grow on me lol. you and moatilliatta are "rev elite". I just got upgraded to a wrencher from an advanced member, maybe im due to be upgraded to "rev hero" lmao jk

[moatilliatta]

Does it need a clutch stop? Is the bottoming out causing dragging issue, or is the clutch not releasing?

[roguetoaster]

honestly though like I said im still not certain so I need to be fair and not jump to conclusions. all I know is that im gonna keep at it and eventually things will work out. but no more deadlines lol I don't want to be looking like a fool. the car is operational when its operational

You are not a fool, mad genius, maybe, r3v hero pioneering an ambitious swap, definitely.

[hkv]

honestly though like I said im still not certain so I need to be fair and not jump to conclusions. all I know is that im gonna keep at it and eventually things will work out. but no more deadlines lol I don't want to be looking like a fool. the car is operational when its operational

[hkv]

With 3 hours I assumed you “Broke it in”

needs multiple accel and decal loads in all gears, different parts of the powerband, then hammer down with accel and decel loads.

look for the weight of oil it recommends with most the zinc you can find, Dino oil.

I couldn't drive it with the clutch not working dude haha