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1990 325is oem+ Going turbo

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    Originally posted by luckybk View Post
    what I mean is that I wanna hear it make the turbo spool
    I wish too ! But I found a big problem on my engine .. I will explain below

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      I think its time for an update ! I’ve got good thing to show you and a big bad new that devastated me .. I’ll show you below !... but first let’s see the progress! I’ve put a brand new oil filter on the engine $$moneyshot haha.. I also receive my water/methanol kit ! I will install it later but here’s the kit : AEM 30-3300 V3 Then, it was the time for the Downpipe. Since the hx35 has a v-band exaust flange 2.5”, in order to make my 3” downpipe, it needed to be modifi. I cut the hx flange and weld an extension + vband flange After , was the time for the DIY pie cut cutting (On the picture , the cut are very rough , everything was been smoothed and chanfern grind for proper weld) Weld is standard mig welding and exaust materiel is standard 3“ pipe. Everything was weld completely and grind at 80% for a ... "better look" Then I ceramic coat it , and wrapped it with exaust wrap Look good with the wrap ! After that , I put the turbo blanket and install the downpipe The new Nissens radiator finally arrive , I install it , put new bmw coolant ht-12, and here is the almost finish engine bay look! I’ve take my oem power steering line to a machine shop to be extended about 3” since the stock length was not enough because the coil new location . Ok so now I was thrive ! Let’s start the engine !! 30 seconde later engine dosent start .. the coil was extremely hot . After 4 day and 12-14hours of search I found the problème and this is something you should remember ! When I extended the coil wire , I see that this wire is shielded , I mean , from exterior to interio the wire is compose : rubber ,thin wire , aluminium , rubber , copper . Something I didn’t know was that the thin wire around the aluminimum shied is grounded all the time . And it was making contact with the copper wire. That’s made the coil « grounded » and the Ecu was not sending signal to the coil . It probably could be very bad ! So , since I’ve got a spare harness , I take the most I can of the oem coil wire and here I show you how is it hook from the factory . For the proper extending operation , I have solder the thin wire to my harness , and the copper separately and make sure it don’t contact with the copper , then isolate carefully and seal everything . I don’t really know the purpose of the shielding but I thing I was a good thing to keep it ! After that , the engine start but very roughly , the base map on Megasquirt is for stock engine , it run very rough and very rich , I need to make a lot of base tuning to make it run properly but hey ! It’s alive !! Now the bad news . Yesterday I found that the brand new oem HG from the dealer directly , is leaking oil . The arp stud was torqued down to 70ft/lb in 3 step , in good order to 70ft/lb with a brand new gear wrench digital . And after a total of 4 min of idling , I already have the worst leak possible on a engine . Im devastated .. I’ve remove the valve cover to check for a loose head stud and unfortunately they were all good . So I à torque then back to 74ft/lb. Did something like this happen to someone ? Did we can torque more than 70 fr/lb ? I’ve seen people torque them over 80 a couple of time .. Please ! Tell me I don’t need to start from The beginning !!!

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        Ok ! Thanks everyone for the reply ! Help me a lot ! So after further digging on the oil leak, I’ve found the culprit. It’s either the cam seal or the rocker shaft plug. I take no chance et replace all four rocker plug and cam seals. So I’ve remove everything to get accès to the cam seal. It is exactly the same job as a timing belt job . But I was so happy ! I mean , who is happy to put 4 hour of labor for a second time and on a brand new timing belt job ? That was nothing for me after I réalise it was not my HG leaking haha! And after remove the cam seal housing , it was clear that the leak was from there . Look at how square the oring is and + , I found a crack on the housing Im lucky to have a spare engine to get spare part as this one So new seals are ordered and the quest continue !

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