Originally posted by luckybk
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1990 325is oem+ Now turbo (Video)
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I think its time for an update ! I’ve got good thing to show you and a big bad new that devastated me .. I’ll show you below !... but first let’s see the progress! I’ve put a brand new oil filter on the engine $$moneyshot haha.. I also receive my water/methanol kit ! I will install it later but here’s the kit : AEM 30-3300 V3 Then, it was the time for the Downpipe. Since the hx35 has a v-band exaust flange 2.5”, in order to make my 3” downpipe, it needed to be modifi. I cut the hx flange and weld an extension + vband flange After , was the time for the DIY pie cut cutting (On the picture , the cut are very rough , everything was been smoothed and chanfern grind for proper weld) Weld is standard mig welding and exaust materiel is standard 3“ pipe. Everything was weld completely and grind at 80% for a ... "better look" Then I ceramic coat it , and wrapped it with exaust wrap Look good with the wrap ! After that , I put the turbo blanket and install the downpipe The new Nissens radiator finally arrive , I install it , put new bmw coolant ht-12, and here is the almost finish engine bay look! I’ve take my oem power steering line to a machine shop to be extended about 3” since the stock length was not enough because the coil new location . Ok so now I was thrive ! Let’s start the engine !! 30 seconde later engine dosent start .. the coil was extremely hot . After 4 day and 12-14hours of search I found the problème and this is something you should remember ! When I extended the coil wire , I see that this wire is shielded , I mean , from exterior to interio the wire is compose : rubber ,thin wire , aluminium , rubber , copper . Something I didn’t know was that the thin wire around the aluminimum shied is grounded all the time . And it was making contact with the copper wire. That’s made the coil « grounded » and the Ecu was not sending signal to the coil . It probably could be very bad ! So , since I’ve got a spare harness , I take the most I can of the oem coil wire and here I show you how is it hook from the factory . For the proper extending operation , I have solder the thin wire to my harness , and the copper separately and make sure it don’t contact with the copper , then isolate carefully and seal everything . I don’t really know the purpose of the shielding but I thing I was a good thing to keep it ! After that , the engine start but very roughly , the base map on Megasquirt is for stock engine , it run very rough and very rich , I need to make a lot of base tuning to make it run properly but hey ! It’s alive !! Now the bad news . Yesterday I found that the brand new oem HG from the dealer directly , is leaking oil . The arp stud was torqued down to 70ft/lb in 3 step , in good order to 70ft/lb with a brand new gear wrench digital . And after a total of 4 min of idling , I already have the worst leak possible on a engine . Im devastated .. I’ve remove the valve cover to check for a loose head stud and unfortunately they were all good . So I à torque then back to 74ft/lb. Did something like this happen to someone ? Did we can torque more than 70 fr/lb ? I’ve seen people torque them over 80 a couple of time .. Please ! Tell me I don’t need to start from The beginning !!!
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Ok ! Thanks everyone for the reply ! Help me a lot ! So after further digging on the oil leak, I’ve found the culprit. It’s either the cam seal or the rocker shaft plug. I take no chance et replace all four rocker plug and cam seals. So I’ve remove everything to get accès to the cam seal. It is exactly the same job as a timing belt job . But I was so happy ! I mean , who is happy to put 4 hour of labor for a second time and on a brand new timing belt job ? That was nothing for me after I réalise it was not my HG leaking haha! And after remove the cam seal housing , it was clear that the leak was from there . Look at how square the oring is and + , I found a crack on the housing Im lucky to have a spare engine to get spare part as this one So new seals are ordered and the quest continue !
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Well .. sorry to the late update ! I still manage to spend a lot of time on the car . Everything put back on , the oil leak is now gone ! I’ve put oem cam Seal/oring and oem valve cover gasket. The car running now a little better. I still need to spend more time on the megasquirt to get it run better and going for a test drive . Here a link of the engine running with only the downpipe https://youtu.be/BSl2IKbRjuw Almost the entire exhaust is completed , I just need to fit and finish the muffler section . I can tell you that doing a full exhaust , with only a grinder and strait pipe , , direct on the ground is a hell of a job ! It does not look good, but I don’t care , I will work and it cost me less than half a professional one .. I also modifi the downpipe and add a flex pipe Then was the time to make the dump tube for the wastegate . Still no mendrel bend and only a grinder but everything came out good. I know the 90° direct exit is not the best , but I’ve had to deal with the space I have ..! I made a braket to solid fix the dump tube with the lower engine vibration damper ??, don’t know what is this for but now is for bracing the dumptube haha ! I spend a lot and a lot of time with the megasquirt and coponent wiring . I wanted the stock look above the glove box and all the oem plastic to be there without any wire in sight. The megasquirt unit is almost twice bigger than the stock ecu . I’ve made some aluminium braket to fit it with the stock screwing location . I also have to wired the water meth wire (10) and route some vaccum all in the area. Im happy with the result ! Everything is properly attached and nothing touch the glovebox at all , all the oem cover are there ! The water meth système is 80% completed Ive made a tank support for the trunk mounting Then wire the pump and plumb the pipe The trunk floor carpet hide almost everything for a better look ! Now , a little step back after further analyse haha.. The Bov location is not the best because of the water meth . At this location , the BOV will evacuate some meth résidu and spread all Over the engine bay so .. I’ve décide to put it right under the air filter after the turbo , I also modifi the turbo housing with a pièces of intercooler piping for a better clamping Than the turbo itself. I put a picture of before those modification And here the modified part Im here at the moment ! I’ve came more and more close to a street test drive . What’s next: —Bleed the coolant properly —Take a look a the brake pedal (spongy..) —finish the water meth wiring and test —finish the IC piping modification —finish the exaust system —install fuel pump —misc little thing I keep up !
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Welllll, the starter moteur die on me , im glad it die into the garage since I perform many start and stop during the projet . BUT , I hâte the fact it die when the motor is ON the car ... hell of a job replacing a starter motor on a e30 !! The water meth installation is finish. Look at how the LED is subtle!... I just need to install the meth nozzle , but I let this to the tuner for a optimal positioning and a properly install. Ose is already in the engine bay!
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Originally posted by QuiqueUy View PostI'm back after one year , read the whole thread again ! very nice updates and i love the progress and fab. i'm jelly of your welding and painting skills , id be happy with 1/10th of it ! hahaha keep it coming , i want to see a video with a flyby !
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