Originally posted by KI4UJO
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I spent '24 mostly ignoring Hooptie after having the header built. I am hoping to start '25 off on the right foot, so I tried to tie up some loose ends tonight.
I bought new quarter window seals but the headliner started to disintegrate upon removal of the old seals, so they stayed in.
I bought that mini sub that goes behind the drivers rear door card and ran an RCA for it, but realized that the class d inside of my new head unit won't run the sub and thus I'll need an additional monoblock to run it in addition to it's own speaker lead. Ordered an NVC VADM1 compact amp that I can hopefully fit where the airbag module sits on 90+ cars to avoid pulling the interior apart again.
While visiting family over Christmas I retrieved the rear M3 seat I bought for hooptie. I need to figure out a center belt receptacle solution since the buckle clips are centered, but until then I can flex on internet people with my rear center arm rest.
I had seat assembly on my mind, so I finally pulled apart hoopties driver seat to replace the side hinges for a set with good tabs. So glad this is fixed.
The pop out latches exploded recently so I bought the billet latch repair kit. I exploded all of my 1/8" allen sockets trying to flare the pins, got some freshies today and added some grease on the pins and got them flared without casualty.
It's hilarious that hoopty has a billet door handle and billet pop out latches.
Things I still need to do for optimal hooptying:
-Convert to Jake's standalone
-A/B dyno with the header vs stock exhaust
-Redo the exhaust so it sits under the factory heat shields for more ground clearance
-Figure out why the fancy r134 A/C system stopped working last year
-Install updated curved blade aux fan and wire on high speed
I honestly wish I just had a stock motor and exhaust in the car at this point as I just want to drive it without the extra complications of the current setup, but alas.
Happy new year r3v!






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