This is Photography

[mrsleeve]

Yeah if its the Nikon then YES our ISO is way too high, if your shooting longer exposures off a tri-pod then you can trun your ISO WAY down.

Take it out of Auto ISO and set you ISO manually

[mcskibadee1]

Anybody else use magic lantern on their cameras? Just got it on my t2i and wanted to know what you guys like to use? I like the focus assist and the the trap focus seems cool.

[mrsleeve]

Trap focus is a old bird/wild life shooters trick, kinda like the old school version of a game camera so long as the battery lasted. I am fairly sure old Pentax and Yeshica's were big on the function. Pentax still offers the function in its current line up, I think.

Isnt magic lantern a video Flimware replacement deal ???
I still have yet to understand why people are buying DSLRs and trying to use them for Video, when for similar money you can get much better devoted video products, not really sure what good trap focusing is going to do for you with a video biased filmwear.

Sun set out back tonight

[Neil1138]

from usernames v2

[mcskibadee1]

@mrsleeve I know there are options to get the "hdr" effect but it requires post processing. There are a lot more options for just taking photos. I'm going to play around with it for the next couple weeks.

[mrsleeve]

^
HDR HUH. "HDR Effect" Yeah thats processing, I have been playing with it a little here and there, I dont like processing a lot, 99% of everything you see me post is right off the glass. I learned on film, where you get it or you dont. Still not sure what your talking about since what your asking about is a flimware replacement for enhancing video ability.

I thought you knew what trap focus was, Its a old school way to get shot. Say you wanted to get a close shot of a song bird. You would set your focus manually where the bird will be, say on the perch of a bird feeder, set your A/F to continuous and then hit the Shutter. The shutter would not trip until there was something for it to focus on at the appropriate distance, walk away. When the bird lands boom something for the Auto Focus to lock onto and shutter is released and you have a bird pic.

[mcskibadee1]

I get what your saying, I am much more of a fan of natural untouched shots. My friend just started a "blog?" and I like his shots. Anything from nature to people and all have very little retouching. I need to get out more and take more photos and learn more. Im still a novice obviously so I love getting info from you guys.

It is a firmware that you install on your camera that gives you more options. It's not just for video.

http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified

[m3clutch]

i love this thread.


Cecil's e46 M3 by Aouadian, on Flickr

[Massimo]

Question I have a canon 60D and looking to upgrade the basic 18-55mm kit lense. here are my two options?

Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS EF USM AF

or

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Zoom Lens

What would you choose I like the f/2.8 for low light shots but I wonder if the L series has a better quality image then the EF-S and weather a amature like me will notice?

[mrsleeve]

If your considering the 24-105, why not look for a nice used 24-70 F 2.8L MK 1. Will run you about 300-350 (US anyway) more then 24-105L. You get the best of both worlds, and you will have one of the best walk about lenses in Canons line up.

Put the best glass you can on the front, YES YOU WILL SEE A DIFFERENCE. Glass is way more important than the body.

I am on the hunt for a 24-70L myself, I will prolly wait till closer to the end of my next stint out at work rather than buy now and tie up the funds and not get to use it for who knows how many months.

[Massimo]

If your considering the 24-105, why not look for a nice used 24-70 F 2.8L MK 1. Will run you about 300-350 (US anyway) more then 24-105L. You get the best of both worlds, and you will have one of the best walk about lenses in Canons line up.

Put the best glass you can on the front, YES YOU WILL SEE A DIFFERENCE. Glass is way more important than the body.

I am on the hunt for a 24-70L myself, I will prolly wait till closer to the end of my next stint out at work rather than by now and tie up the funds an not get to use it for months.

I did not know that lol. looking into it now. Might be a bit hard to justify the extra $300 to the missus but will see. Cheers

[Massimo]

Looking into this I noticed there is no image stablizer, I do a bit of motion shooting like our dogs at the park. Do you think this would be an issue?

Keeping on topic



may I could go for the 24-105 with a 580ex flash or something like that to make up for the F2.8? I still rock the standard flash.

[mrsleeve]

In short, I would rather have Faster glass than IS, having both is great if thats an option, as IS would be another tool to help, but I dont feel its necessary a lot of the time even though its turned on in many cases.


Personally I have not seen a big improvement for using the IS on my canon gear, in fact just the opposite I always forget to shut it off when making long shots on a tripod and it softens the shit out of everything. The In lens IS I really have not found to let me "get the shot" with significantly slower shutter times, though it is helpful for me in certain situations. The Sensor shift IS in my olympus gear on the other hand really seems to give you super slow shutter hand held capability.

All that said, for action shooting IS is going to be all but useless anyway. If your shutter is open so long in the 1st place that you need the IS your subject is going to be painfully out of focus and a blob of motion blur unless you are making a panning shot and then the IS is fighting you all the way anyway. the extra stop of aperture on the 24-70 effectively reduce your shutter speed to 1/4 of the f4 shutter for any given exposure, Trade off is obviously DOF.


I HATE flash, I would sooner have a little noise than use a flash. So for me I would turn up the ISO a step or 2 and use the wider aperture of the 2.8 to my advantage IS or not.

Thats my take I am sure others will have another point of view ;)

[Massimo]

In short, I would rather have Faster glass than IS, having both is great if thats an option, as IS would be another tool to help, but I dont feel its necessary a lot of the time even though its turned on in many cases.


Personally I have not seen a big improvement for using the IS on my canon gear, in fact just the opposite I always forget to shut it off when making long shots on a tripod and it softens the shit out of everything. The In lens IS I really have not found to let me "get the shot" with significantly slower shutter times, though it is helpful for me in certain situations. The Sensor shift IS in my olympus gear on the other hand really seems to give you super slow shutter hand held capability.

All that said, for action shooting IS is going to be all but useless anyway. If your shutter is open so long in the 1st place that you need the IS your subject is going to be painfully out of focus and a blob of motion blur unless you are making a panning shot and then the IS is fighting you all the way anyway. the extra stop of aperture on the 24-70 effectively reduce your shutter speed to 1/4 of the f4 shutter for any given exposure, Trade off is obviously DOF.


I HATE flash, I would sooner have a little noise than use a flash. So for me I would turn up the ISO a step or 2 and use the wider aperture of the 2.8 to my advantage IS or not.

Thats my take I am sure others will have another point of view ;)

Thanks ill take that into account that 24-70 is looking better and better. lol

[Fast325i]

goddamn. what lens/camera?

60D + Sigma 10-20mm F/4-5.6 ... nothing special. :D