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  • Julien
    replied
    Originally posted by LateFan View Post
    Interesting - is that in the US? How does that work if it's not 25 years old?

    Did it bend any valves, or is that non-interference?
    Not in the US, bent many many valves :)

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  • LateFan
    replied
    Interesting - is that in the US? How does that work if it's not 25 years old?

    Did it bend any valves, or is that non-interference?

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  • Julien
    replied
    Quick head removal on a 147 JTDm because of a timing belt failure

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  • BlackbirdM3
    replied
    Originally posted by varg View Post
    That's what I meant.

    Not at all surprised that you had a hell of a time getting them off, aluminum + steel with no corrosion inhibitors = a bad time for whoever has to work on it.
    Actually it was Steel on steel, the centers on the drums are steel. Here is the kicker however. The drums have been the single most difficult things to remove on the car. I've only had 10 bolts or screws break, all the rest have come off with relative ease. That said, I still have one seat mounting screw that I need to drill out and tap. It also appears I have a stuck flare fitting in the rear brakes, that is steel on aluminum... It didn't want to budge earlier this week. Its had a week to soak in WD-40 so perhaps it will come free with a little coaxing.

    Will

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  • varg
    replied
    Originally posted by BlackbirdM3 View Post
    Actually the wheels would act as a heat sink, more surface area for the heat to transfer to.
    That's what I meant.

    Not at all surprised that you had a hell of a time getting them off, aluminum + steel with no corrosion inhibitors = a bad time for whoever has to work on it.

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  • BlackbirdM3
    replied
    Originally posted by varg View Post
    True. With enough air flow those bits should dissipate heat a lot better than your typical cast iron drum setup. Maybe put a dab of thermal paste between those drums and the wheels just to improve the heat rejection of the whole system ;)

    The helical fins really are cooler to look at than a steel disc. I imagine they'd be a total nightmare to remove on a neglected car.
    Actually the wheels would act as a heat sink, more surface area for the heat to transfer to. Im going to run Motul DOT5.1 fluid so it will be plenty heat resistant.

    A total nightmare to remove was an understatement. It took me 7 years to get them extracted. I tried heat, cold, several cans of Kroil and other penetrating oils. I finally succeeded using the biggest brake drum puller I've ever seen. I set it up, wound it tight and walked away. Every hour or so I'd come back and give it another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. After about 6 hrs, it would suddenly let go. It startled the hell out of me every time. I'm sitting there working on something and BANG the thing pops free. I'm not about to let that happen again.

    Will

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  • BlackbirdM3
    replied
    Originally posted by LateFan View Post
    Yeah, I believe that's what that design was for from the factory - racing and dissipating heat. They didn't get disks till....early 60s..? 4-wheel disks appeared in...'65?
    I'm pretty sure the TZs had disks up front, I think it was '63 or so when they went to disks on the production cars. I just got off the phone with Porterfield and it will be about $150 per end for the shoes relined in the R4-1 compound. Not too bad, higher than I was hoping, but it is what it is.

    Will

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  • LateFan
    replied
    Yeah, I believe that's what that design was for from the factory - racing and dissipating heat. They didn't get disks till....early 60s..? 4-wheel disks appeared in...'65?

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  • varg
    replied
    True. With enough air flow those bits should dissipate heat a lot better than your typical cast iron drum setup. Maybe put a dab of thermal paste between those drums and the wheels just to improve the heat rejection of the whole system ;)

    The helical fins really are cooler to look at than a steel disc. I imagine they'd be a total nightmare to remove on a neglected car.
    Last edited by varg; 07-07-2017, 12:39 PM.

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  • BlackbirdM3
    replied
    Originally posted by varg View Post
    Neat to look at but will those drums be adequate on the track with all of the other performance mods? Or will it not see track use?
    It might see track use. It will certainly see spirited driving use. The truthful answer is, I don't know. I've been told by every person who tracks their Sprint that the stock brakes are just fine with modern brake shoe compounds. I'm going to call up Porterfield and KFP to see what they say. As you can see, the drums are massive finned aluminum pieces so They should disappate heat far better than a cast iron drum. I will be using a good DOT 5.1 brake fluid in the car, so that will help.

    Will

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  • varg
    replied
    Neat to look at but will those drums be adequate on the track with all of the other performance mods? Or will it not see track use?

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  • LateFan
    replied
    I dig those finned drums.

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  • BlackbirdM3
    replied
    Originally posted by flyboyx View Post
    Completely off topic, but I am incredibly impressed with whoever fabricated and installed that ductwork! Beauty and art!

    Whatcha gonna do with all those egg cartons?
    hahaha. Not sure who did the duct work, but its at least 20 years old. Its a friends garage, not mine (I wish it were mine) They have chickens so the egg cartons get used for fresh eggs.

    Will

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  • flyboyx
    replied
    Originally posted by BlackbirdM3 View Post
    Making headway on my Sprint. The front end is done, Alfaholics racing springs, Konis, and monster Alfaholics front anti sway bar.



    Now to pull the old rear end to make way for the new, modified 105 rear end with 4.10 diff and a 54% lockup LSD.

    Will

    Completely off topic, but I am incredibly impressed with whoever fabricated and installed that ductwork! Beauty and art!

    Whatcha gonna do with all those egg cartons?

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Damn Will, that looks great. Should be a load of fun when its all done! Any headway with the seating yet?

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