OFFICIAL Land Rover thread.

[slammin.e28]

Whelp just got done repairing both front window regulators. I can't believe how easy it was but how stupid the original design was. Hopefully it's all fixed now. Well see in a couple hours when the adhesive sets up.

[AZRRC]

I have a 95 RRC lwb parts truck, anyone need anything

[slammin.e28]

Man.....now I'm racking my brain....

What's the dealio on that roof rack?

[AZRRC]

It's in ok shape I need to order a set of keys for it,

[slammin.e28]

I'm looking for something to put a basket on.

[slammin.e28]

Doing this tonight. Yay for me. -_-

[AZRRC]

Let me know how that works out, my swivels leak like no other, well my truck leaks like no other lol. That's how you know there's fluid in it

[z31maniac]

1995 parts truck.

That's the epitome of Land Rover.

[bcausey]

My 95 SWB - my 3rd one. Best 4x4 by far. Would love to have a diesel 110 someday.

[AZRRC]

95 is the best year by far, at one time I had 4 95's all SWB

[bcausey]

95 is the best year by far, at one time I had 4 95's all SWB

95 is one of my favorites. I've had this one for 10 years and live with it as it is.
They are another vehicle like the e30 that if you can work on it yourself it can be affordable and reliable. Mine can sit forever and crank on the first try everytime.

[GDA]

Just last weekend did a DI trans pan swap onto my 03 DII as the earlier pan comes with a dipstick.

Great timing as the truck now has 119k on it so did pan and filter on the trans and also fresh fluids on t-case and both diffs. Runs and shifts super smooth. These old Land Rovers are so easy to work on.

[slammin.e28]

Let me know how that works out, my swivels leak like no other, well my truck leaks like no other lol. That's how you know there's fluid in it

Ended up not doing it. Was chasing a vacuum leak on the M52 and ran out of time.

Towed my e24 to Danville though. Did great, except for hills. Dumb M52 needs to revv to get any torque. Contemplated putting an M30B35 in it, but the oil sump is up front. Gonna see if I can't change that on one of my spare M30 blocks.

[slammin.e28]

So, on my LWB I replaced two calipers, right rear and right front. On the right rear I had to replace the disc, wheel bearing, and ABS ring (old ring had seized in place). I did the rear w/ABS ring first, then went to do the front pads and noticed the front right caliper was seized. I drove the truck outside to sit for a bit (week or two) then got a caliper and did the job. Bled the brakes according to the Rovers North procedure.

Finally got the truck going and before I get 50 yards the ABS and traction control light come on. I diag that with the blink test and get a few codes. Clear them, drive again, and 2-7 (Continuous supply to ECU w/ignition off, faulty valve relay AB14 or wiring)keeps coming back. I replaced both relays, light still comes on, same code.

I've been driving like this for some time. Truck won't pass state inspection with the ABS light on, so I've got a 7/12 sticker. Recently the red brake light has started coming on, but would go off ~40mph. It's staying on longer now, if not indefinitely.

I'm stumped on both counts. I really need to get this thing inspected. I'm leaning towards replacing the ABS module for the 2-7 code. I just don't know what else to look into.

This red brake light, I thought it was for the parking brake. It's across from the ABS light. I'm assuming there is a sensor to let you know if the parking brake is left up?

[QUKBMER]

I use to have a 2000 disco II (no air ride) and due to my divorce in 2006 i couldnt pay it off (7 g's)so off it went (surrendered it back). I really miss that truck. I have a 2001 toyota sequoia but its just not the same thing.