Mk60e5 ABS

[latitude]

Did you try to code it? Maybe you know, SZL its needed for coding?

[hoveringuy]

The four corners are connected, just need to run the 1/4" lines to master cylinders and wire the plug. Getting close!

Also need to figure-out the reservoir; I had the 2002 one last year and wasn't crazy about it, mostly because the plastic connections were under some strain.

LOTS of room for the air filter...

[HertE30]

I got a deal on some E30 M3 KW V3's so upgrading the ABS at the same time I install those would work well.

Got some E28 front bearings and pulled the rings off, measured 79mm diameter on the mounting face, I think Chrysler ring will work with a thinner spacer

[Northern]

Any garden-variety Mk60 will work but I think only the M-car ones have the motorsports goodness. The units out of E46 M3's are grossly expensive at a minimum of $800 and usually closer to $1000, but the E92 M3 unites can be had everyday on Ebay for $2-300 and I got mine for $70. A regular E46 Mk60 that you can get for $50 would still be leagues better than we have!

Regarding the FPR, not an issue on the N52 because my vacuum reference line isn't even connected, due to no vacuum on the N52. That's right, the throttle body is wide-open at anything other than idle and normally the valve lift itself is the throttle which means there's no vacuum in the manifold. Also, the injectors sit in the head and not the manifold which means removing the manifold takes about 3 minutes! For the same reason the N52 has a dedicated vacuum pump to operate the brake booster otherwise they wouldn't have brakes.

Not going to pretend to understand where the line is for "motorsport goodness" but I'll just follow along and if I get to the point I'm ready to do this to whichever car, I'll look into it.

I forgot you were N52 swapped. Never considered valvetronic's impact on the fuel system.

[hoveringuy]

Very interested in this. I bought my 4-dr with the brake lines butchered, so I need to do them anyway, and I've always wanted to someday to do a 4-channel setup, MK60 or otherwise.

Is the E9x M3 unit the same as the non-M? I can't find any M3 units sub-$300, but I could grab a non-m from a junkyard for nothing I'm sure.

A bit confused about the FPR at the tank and the pressure loss/reaction time it must add? I'm sure you could adapt a tune for the pressure loss no problem, but any delay would be interesting to deal with.

Any garden-variety Mk60 will work but I think only the M-car ones have the motorsports goodness. The units out of E46 M3's are grossly expensive at a minimum of $800 and usually closer to $1000, but the E92 M3 unites can be had everyday on Ebay for $2-300 and I got mine for $70. A regular E46 Mk60 that you can get for $50 would still be leagues better than we have!

Regarding the FPR, not an issue on the N52 because my vacuum reference line isn't even connected, due to no vacuum on the N52. That's right, the throttle body is wide-open at anything other than idle and normally the valve lift itself is the throttle which means there's no vacuum in the manifold. Also, the injectors sit in the head and not the manifold which means removing the manifold takes about 3 minutes! For the same reason the N52 has a dedicated vacuum pump to operate the brake booster otherwise they wouldn't have brakes.

Even on something like an S50 I don't see it as an issue because pressure changes at the rear would be almost instantaneous and inconsequential.

I finally finished all of my hardlines, including the two for hydro-electric power steering, which means I can re-install the rear subframe soon and get on with the Mk60....

steering return, steering pressure, brakes left, brakes right, fuel

[Northern]

Very interested in this. I bought my 4-dr with the brake lines butchered, so I need to do them anyway, and I've always wanted to someday to do a 4-channel setup, MK60 or otherwise.

Is the E9x M3 unit the same as the non-M? I can't find any M3 units sub-$300, but I could grab a non-m from a junkyard for nothing I'm sure.

A bit confused about the FPR at the tank and the pressure loss/reaction time it must add? I'm sure you could adapt a tune for the pressure loss no problem, but any delay would be interesting to deal with.

[FredK]

Ah, yeah that's really nice to be able to flare GM fuel fittings. I'm excited to see your progress, it seems like you're very close now!

[hoveringuy]

That looks pretty trick! What tool did you use to flare the GM fuel fitting? Your lines look really neat.

I have a Mastercool 37 degree flare kit, and I got the 5/16 die that does the GM fuel fitting. Easy-peasy.
the 3/16 stainless brake lines are trivially easy and I mostly copied the stock line. The 5/16 fuel line took a little more effort. Bending the 3/8 lines with the hand bender takes a bit of body english.

Hardest thing is that stainless doesn't like to flare. In fact, it will easily crack. I found that if I heat it red-hot by the time I get it in the fixture and flare it the result is perfect.

All the cool kids are using NiCop these days. It's much easier to flare and bend but i just prefer the strength of stainless.

[FredK]

That looks pretty trick! What tool did you use to flare the GM fuel fitting? Your lines look really neat.

[hoveringuy]

Another update. I removed the fuel tank and rear subframe to run the independent rear lines. I mostly copied the stock line and then improvised a bit, needed to modify the front flange to take 2 lines instead of 1. This is stainless line and it was laughably easy to bend, the 37 degree flare is a little trickier on it because it likes to crack but I got that figured-out, too. Leak checked and it's good-to-go!

The sharp-eyed will notice the GM style fuel fitting right on the fuel line. I can do that (and connect the fuel rail directly to the fuel line) because I moved the FPR to the tank. Fits pretty much like a glove, it frees up space for extra lines to the front and is just more efficient.

The big line is a 3/8 AN6 line that's the first of two power steering lines.

[hoveringuy]

Are you gonna run the steering sensor?

Not at first, anyway. Everything I've seen shows that the steering angle sensor isn't needed and doesn't offer any additional functions without having the entire ECU integrated.

[hozzziii]

Are you gonna run the steering sensor?

[hoveringuy]

DSC is mounted. This is the yaw and acceleration sensor.

[hoveringuy]

Why did you switch to the magnetic ring on the rear?

It's possible to code the unit to run the stock rings in the back, but it was incredibly easy to just put mag rings over the CV shafts and not need to do the coding

I found it a steep learning curve to get Tool32 configured, have the right VIN and all that to fo it.

[HertE30]

Why did you switch to the magnetic ring on the rear?