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    #31
    Originally posted by Bishop View Post
    I'm not sure if the simple math thing was sarcasm or what? I was looking at Turner and saw $50 for fronts, dunno if you happened to have $50 of other stuff in your cart or if I'm missing something when dealing with Turner...
    Haha nope, I was being serious, their site confused me. It says "$229 (add $50)" and it just meant add $50 to the base Pagid pad price, not the $229. So it's $230, not $280.
    85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
    e30 restoration and V8 swap
    24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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      #32
      Alright, I saw that too. We'll see what ends up happening when I need new pads... I'd like to balance performance and cost, but in the end, I'd rather have whatever is reliable and safest, regardless to cost, cause even if I spend $500 on front pads alone, it's cheaper than walking away from a balled up e30 ($500 is an overly dramatic, it's sad I'm having to type this out but I know someone out there would call me on it...)

      PM me for detailing services in the Longmont / Boulder Area in Colorado!
      Originally posted by DTM190
      "fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"

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        #33
        The safe bet? Have at least one complete spare set well packed and stored with your track gear. That way if you need them, you have them. Plus there always seems to be someone looking for some consumable part at the track, so you can help out your fellow enthusiasts.

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          #34
          Originally posted by AlarmedBread View Post
          The safe bet? Have at least one complete spare set well packed and stored with your track gear. That way if you need them, you have them. Plus there always seems to be someone looking for some consumable part at the track, so you can help out your fellow enthusiasts.
          Yep, I always carry at least one full set of pads.

          Any track pad (Hawk HT10/14, DTC60/70, PFC 01/06, Carbotech XP8/10/12, etc...) is a "safe" pad. Keep them within their temp range, make sure your calipers and rotors are in good shape, check them after each day for unusual pad deterioration, etc... and you will be fine. Spending big $$$ on pads won't be any "safer" then the proven lower cost pads that 90% of the e30 community uses to win races.
          85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
          e30 restoration and V8 swap
          24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

          Comment


            #35
            For someone attending hpde (3-4 track days, still considered newbie) on street tires like the Kumho XS, will the HP+ pads be okay?

            I understand R comps and the need for real track pads but for group B or C hpde, is that overkill?

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              #36
              If your car is stockish, and you're new - sure.
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #37
                Originally posted by jayuuey View Post
                For someone attending hpde (3-4 track days, still considered newbie) on street tires like the Kumho XS, will the HP+ pads be okay?
                You'll be okay. Just don't try to follow the faster track cars ...
                Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

                massivebrakes.com

                http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





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                  #38
                  I'll give the HT-10s a whirl when I need some new pads, since they're interchangeable without having to change rotors... I might also give Lee's suggestions a whirl from my PM

                  PM me for detailing services in the Longmont / Boulder Area in Colorado!
                  Originally posted by DTM190
                  "fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"

                  Comment


                    #39
                    HT10 are great all-around track pads. They are also great for the street if you don't mind a bit of noise, and that damn dust that turns into crust after being wet.

                    On the track, the first session is a give away. Chances are that you'll get a lot of shake. That is until the pads are fully bedded-in. Just driving to the event is not enough. Frive hard a full session, and you'll be happy thereafter.
                    Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

                    massivebrakes.com

                    http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





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                      #40
                      If I DD HT10s, are they going to wear down weird or fast or anything? Is it worth having a set of street pads and the HT10s to conserve their life?

                      PM me for detailing services in the Longmont / Boulder Area in Colorado!
                      Originally posted by DTM190
                      "fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"

                      Comment


                        #41
                        I am currently test the street wear of the HT10. I ike how they brake around town. I will report on rotor wear later. BTW HT10 are medium friction pads. Nothing crazy despite the reputation they have.
                        Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

                        massivebrakes.com

                        http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





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                          #42
                          they're going to be extremely noisy, dusty, and have horrible cold bite (although they are quiet when new, but once you've tracked them they get way louder). The dust is also corrosive on your wheels. Definitely run a set of street pads unless you're super hardcore. It only takes 5-10 minutes per wheel to change on an E30 anyway.
                          Build thread

                          Bimmerlabs

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                            #43
                            Thanks nando. I'll keep a set of HP+ around and see if I can't pick up some HT10s when I know I'm going back to the track

                            PM me for detailing services in the Longmont / Boulder Area in Colorado!
                            Originally posted by DTM190
                            "fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Actually, I have been daily driving front and rear HT10s for three weeks now. They sometimes squeal. Not always. Cold bite is much better than many street pads. Dry dust is okay.
                              Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

                              massivebrakes.com

                              http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





                              Comment


                                #45
                                The corrosive dust is what I wanna avoid. I don't get to wash my car as often as I'd like anymore now that I'm in school full time and trying to work as much as possible.

                                PM me for detailing services in the Longmont / Boulder Area in Colorado!
                                Originally posted by DTM190
                                "fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"

                                Comment

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