School me on wheel studs guys

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  • Fusion
    No R3VLimiter
    • Nov 2009
    • 3658

    #46
    I'd be afraid to run non-hubcentric wheels without a hub spacer.
    I'm no scientist, but wouldn't that allow the studs to flex atleast a tiny bit in extremes?
    The spacer rings cost a couple bucks...

    Comment

    • Eric
      R3V Elite
      • Feb 2004
      • 5138

      #47
      Originally posted by Fusion
      I'd be afraid to run non-hubcentric wheels without a hub spacer.
      I'm no scientist, but wouldn't that allow the studs to flex atleast a tiny bit in extremes?
      The spacer rings cost a couple bucks...
      My MINI runs E30 euroweaves for track shoes, and they are not hubcentric. MINI center bore is 56mm and E30 is 57.1mm. It's close but you can feel the play.

      My method for centering the wheels is to get the lugs down close enough that the wheel doesn't move on it's own, but I can adjust it. Then I center it with my eye, then tighten the bolts a quarter turn in what ever direction it needs to go. Torque the wheels, and it's vibration free!

      I'm not sure why this works on my MINI, on my E34 M5 with E39 wheels it vibrated like a loose dong in your moms pantie drawer.


      The studs/nuts aren't what hold the load of the car. The wheel face/hub face are the load bearing surfaces, and the lug nuts only have a stretch force applied to them (reason they should be changed like other wear items) not a shear force.
      My E30 v1.0 | v2.0 | v3.0 | My E28 |My E34 | My feedback

      Comment

      • geezerman402
        Wrencher
        • Aug 2008
        • 213

        #48
        ... Non hub centric wheels are a bad idea. No way around that fact.

        Comment

        • Bishop
          R3V Elite
          • May 2009
          • 4913

          #49
          Geezer, is there any way I can badger you for some more pics? Like via PM or here... Looking for more angles and stuff on those studs, I thought I was sold on the 75s but now I'm not sure... How far do they stick out past the TR wheels, etc?...

          PM me for detailing services in the Longmont / Boulder Area in Colorado!
          Originally posted by DTM190
          "fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"

          Comment

          • 2002maniac
            R3V Elite
            • Feb 2005
            • 4260

            #50
            The problem with 75mm length studs is that they are just barely too short to run 15mm spacers. If they had like 2-3 more threads they'd be perfect. 90mm sticks out way too far to be practical IMO. Threading the nuts on and off takes forever.

            Comment

            • Bishop
              R3V Elite
              • May 2009
              • 4913

              #51
              That's essentially the same thought process I'm having... I don't think I'll need spacers at all for these wheels, but dunno about down the road. 75 work and 90 is just a tad much...

              PM me for detailing services in the Longmont / Boulder Area in Colorado!
              Originally posted by DTM190
              "fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"

              Comment

              • iamsam
                Advanced Member
                • Jun 2008
                • 172

                #52
                electric impact gun. No more eternal nut-threading problems.

                imho, 90mm studs look bad-ass, but that is offset by the fact that 4-lug studs look cheesy in comparison to 5-lug.

                My dream setup is 16x8 E38 style 5s on E30M3 5-lug w/ black bullet nosed 90mm studs. I wouldn't think twice or even once about what to do if I ever got my sweaty palms on some E30 M3 suspension.

                Comment

                • nando
                  Moderator
                  • Nov 2003
                  • 34827

                  #53
                  Originally posted by geezerman402
                  ... Non hub centric wheels are a bad idea. No way around that fact.
                  okay - not sure what "fact" you're speaking of, but wheels were non-hubcentric for decades without issue.
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

                  Comment

                  • etxxz
                    R3VLimited
                    • Feb 2006
                    • 2085

                    #54
                    hubcentric wheels or spacers(that $50-75 you are talking about) will keep studs from breaking. As far as them yielding thankfully i haven't experienced or seen any yet. I torque by hand, most times at events they'll put wrench to my lugs and one or two will turn a bit at 90ft.lbs.

                    i've seen what happens when studs fail breaking from 80mph to about 30-40mph, even if it was one or two, they all went and he skidded on the brakes broke the rotor destroyed sideskirts and that's about all the damage i saw at the track. i can't imagine what else he broke or bent and the size of the stain on his seat. his day was over.
                    No more e30s for me.
                    88 black BMW OBDII 332is dedicated track [sold]
                    88 BMW OBDII bronzit 332is [RIP 03/08]
                    91 BMW 325i [sold]
                    86 Corolla 'Ae86' HB 20v trd [sold]
                    http://youtube.com/watch?v=pTj7Hn9v5Rs

                    Comment

                    • nando
                      Moderator
                      • Nov 2003
                      • 34827

                      #55
                      if I used spacers my tires wouldn't fit ;)

                      also my wheels have a bore that's too small for a centering ring.

                      It's not an issue. cheap studs, however, were an issue.
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

                      Comment

                      • geezerman402
                        Wrencher
                        • Aug 2008
                        • 213

                        #56
                        Originally posted by Bishop
                        Geezer, is there any way I can badger you for some more pics? Like via PM or here... Looking for more angles and stuff on those studs, I thought I was sold on the 75s but now I'm not sure... How far do they stick out past the TR wheels, etc?...
                        I'll grab you some photos from a bunch of angles tomorrow, when the sun comes back up.

                        The real issue is I usually swap wheels at home, and have to spin the nuts by hand. It takes a while :rofl:

                        Originally posted by nando
                        okay - not sure what "fact" you're speaking of, but wheels were non-hubcentric for decades without issue.
                        I have seen plenty of instances regarding wheels not being hubcentric. Primarily vibration at speed, clunking noise. Thankfully I never saw it go beyond that.

                        Non hubcentric wheels do put a bit of strain on the lug bolts or studs. A little bit a movement can end with a broken stud and that tends to end badly. It is certainly possible you can run non hubcentric wheels and be totally fine. But it's an unnecessary risk.

                        Comment

                        • Dave
                          E30 RAT
                          • Nov 2003
                          • 11675

                          #57
                          I have been running non-hubcentric wheels as my track wheels since 2006 - never any issues.
                          Current Cars
                          2014 M235i
                          2009 R56 Cooper S
                          1998 M3
                          1997 M3

                          Comment

                          • AlarmedBread
                            E30 Mastermind
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 1510

                            #58
                            Torque the wheels before you set the car on the ground.

                            Hub centric rings are there to center the wheel while you torque it down, nothing else. They will not magically prevent damage to your studs from improper installation of wheels.

                            Comment

                            • Bimmerman325i
                              R3V OG
                              • Dec 2007
                              • 6854

                              #59
                              Ben, Garrett runs the TCK stud kit, but I think between TCK, Bimmerworld, and Vorshlag you can't go wrong. I don't think you need studs for your setup now, so just get the shorter length that mimic the OEM bolt length.
                              2017 Chevrolet SS, 6MT
                              95 M3/2/5 (S54 and Mk60 DSC, CARB legal, Build Thread)
                              98 M3/4/5 (stock)

                              Comment

                              • iamsam
                                Advanced Member
                                • Jun 2008
                                • 172

                                #60
                                This just in: The Vorshlag short studs (allow up to 10mm spacers) DO fit nicely behind basketweave center caps.

                                EDIT: looks like the kit I am talking about is NLA on Vorshlag's website. I have the stainless stud kit, 60mm iirc.

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