24V = smithereens after 50 hours of racing

[LJ851]

If the data of a 24v lasting only 50 hours of racing offends anyone so be it - I thought 50 hours was quite a decent amount of run time for a junkyard engine randomly purchased off local r3vtard on CL.

No matter how much you want to believe, no one is offended by your junkyard engine or data.

What are you guys going to do different (if anything) regarding the next engine installed in lemonade car.

[ForcedFirebird]

... signature mod lists.


If the data of a 24v lasting only 50 hours of racing offends anyone so be it - I thought 50 hours was quite a decent amount of run time for a junkyard engine randomly purchased off local r3vtard on CL.

I thought about this the other day. What you have on your car is common to be in a signature. Not a lot of it proves anything on a dyno or for longevity, but looks good in a signature. We too have an endurance car and a completely stock m50 with stock chip lasted many more than 50 hrs and was still going strong when one of the drivers decided to money shift into 2nd at the end of the stretch at Daytona (anyone who knows Daytona realizes you are top of 5th there), think 20 valves were bent, made the driver a clock/trophy out of it...

What Wang is saying is if you want life out of your car, stop putting bigger injectors, larger MAF's, mystery chips etc in your car and they will last much longer. I tend to agree. Just buying random stuff and putting them on your car will hurt performance and reliability more than help it. Since the money shift and replacement motor, we have completed 8 14hr races with zero engine failures (broken control arms, crashes taking out wheels/tires etc not counting). That's 8 checkered flags and 112hrs of race conditions with ZERO issues.

Endurance racing is much different than track days, doing burnouts to impress your friends, HPDE, or even sprint racing. Stock (EDIT: near stock) is king if you want your car to last.

[Wanganstyle]

I thought about this the other day. What you have on your car is common to be in a signature. Not a lot of it proves anything on a dyno or for longevity, but looks good in a signature. We too have an endurance car and a completely stock m50 with stock chip lasted many more than 50 hrs and was still going strong when one of the drivers decided to money shift into 2nd at the end of the stretch at Daytona (anyone who knows Daytona realizes you are top of 5th there), think 20 valves were bent, made the driver a clock/trophy out of it...

What Wang is saying is if you want life out of your car, stop putting bigger injectors, larger MAF's, mystery chips etc in your car and they will last much longer. I tend to agree. Just buying random stuff and putting them on your car will hurt performance and reliability more than help it. Since the money shift and replacement motor, we have completed 8 14hr races with zero engine failures (broken control arms, crashes taking out wheels/tires etc not counting). That's 8 checkered flags and 112hrs of race conditions with ZERO issues.

Endurance racing is much different than track days, doing burnouts to impress your friends, HPDE, or even sprint racing. Stock (EDIT: near stock) is king if you want your car to last.

After the kaboom the lemonaidemobile got a engine donated from a team members actual race car. It was good enough to hold pole position (out of 216) for the first 2hrs of the race and post fastest lap time. Then it blew a head gasket and that was the end of our race.

Did not have time to assemble an actual lemons engine from lemony parts- perhaps next time.

A STOCK dme with stock chip was run; there will be no more use of aftermarket chips anymore - the benefit of an extra 1,000 rpm is not worth the loss in durability.

IF durability is the target; Stock BMW everything.

I think that if the m52 had not been subjected to solid motor mounts the pick up would be just fine.
Also if redline had been kept to 6,000 stock with a stock chip then the 50 hours might have increased to 80 - But; this is just a guess; who knows

[ForcedFirebird]

It wasn't the mounts, it was the RPM. Harmonics go South after/near 7k. Period. The. End.

[digger]

i tend to agree with ForcedFirebird about the mounts.

the vibration of crank excites the block and all with in it shaking the shit out of it. the modes of vibration are much more localized and a change in mount stiffness is not really going to influence them IMO

the mounts would only affect the vibration frequencies transmitted to the body.

[Wanganstyle]

i tend to agree with ForcedFirebird about the mounts.

the vibration of crank excites the block and all with in it shaking the shit out of it. the modes of vibration are much more localized and a change in mount stiffness is not really going to influence them IMO

the mounts would only affect the vibration frequencies transmitted to the body.

Do you think the 7krpm redline sent enough stress to the oil pump pickup to break it down?

The oil pickup is cast aluminum and it flaked apart at the seam. Do you think the vibrations from solid mounts could have caused this breakdown

I've never seen a oil pickup break down like this; have you?

[ForcedFirebird]

Highly doubt the solid mounts had anything to do with it unless the track had a washboard texture. Harmonics above 7k RPM will come from within, whereas blaming the mounts would mean the vibration would come from the outside. Either way a stock motor continuously run above 7k isn't a good idea. It's bad on the harmonic damper, oil pump drive and in m20's we know rockers and intermediate gears suffer.

[Wanganstyle]

Highly doubt the solid mounts had anything to do with it unless the track had a washboard texture. Harmonics above 7k RPM will come from within, whereas blaming the mounts would mean the vibration would come from the outside. Either way a stock motor continuously run above 7k isn't a good idea. It's bad on the harmonic damper, oil pump drive and in m20's we know rockers and intermediate gears suffer.

Subaru EJ series engine is known to crack the oil pick up welds from vibration stress over time. Local friend has this happen

The S52 is known to crack the oil pick up tube also; BMW addressed this by using a updated part in the Z3's

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1462228-S52-oil-pump-suction-pipe-failure

[TobyB]

Coulda just been a defective pick- up, you know... or...

I had a 2002 parts motor where the dipstick had gotten bent enough that
the CRANK had whacked it into the pickup and cut a hole into it.
NEVER would have believed that...

That pickup doesn't look like the vibration failures I've had or seen.

But I'm just a club racer...

t

[Luke_M]

I'm dailying a stock euro S50B32 that saw about 60+ hours on track (club racing). It runs freakin awesome but I'm guessing it's on borrowed time.

Anything anyone could suggest to look out for? Rod bearings and rod bolts are on the list. I'd like to rebuild the entire bottom end with new bearings, hardware and seals and get a VAC Stage 2 head with some cams. But that's all more $$$

[squidrope]

Lemons guy here. Not from the left coast.. Cheap motors break. Deal with it.

[djjerme]

I'm with Toby, that looks more like something hit it.. maybe multiple times.

[Wanganstyle]

I'm with Toby, that looks more like something hit it.. maybe multiple times.

I wish I could find something that hit it. The 24V dipstick has a plastic end and was unscathed- we reused it on the replacement powerplant.

Metal flaked out from the seam slowly and fed the oil pump metal.

If the part just failed randomly it would make sense; however many other cars (including bmw s52) are known to have pickup failure for various reasons

Bmw didn't redesign the pickup between e36m s52 and z3 for no reason; Local friends have also had oil pickup failures in other cars and manufacture warranty has covered it.