Folks,
Looking for some feedback, either positive or negative on clocking my top plates by about 20 degrees.
In the winter downtime I've been playing around with my front end setup. The car serves many purposes, from daily driver, Autocross and drifting.
My front end looks like as follows:
Before "notching" the camber plate
After
Given that the elongation of the slots in the top plates provided more camber than I arguably need, I started looking at clocking the plates to result in a "sweep" that proportionately adjusts caster and caber progressively. Why? I was bored.
I don't see an issue with this, but I'm wondering if there are any negative consequences?
Sciences
Result
At max camber/caster, this results in an additional 20mm positive caster with camber sitting at -4.
As the slider is moved into the central position, stock caster is achieved (granted there are offset FCABs), which camber is around -1.5.
To me this seems like a fair compromise for satisfying the Sunday morning adjustments needed to go from daily driver to Autocross/backroads ripper.
I have a roll center correction kit ready to go in, but want to play with this before adding any more variables.
Sessy shots as a reward for reading the post
Full compression camber up front on 225/50s
Same setting, but when "light"
Bit of everything
Looking for some feedback, either positive or negative on clocking my top plates by about 20 degrees.
In the winter downtime I've been playing around with my front end setup. The car serves many purposes, from daily driver, Autocross and drifting.
My front end looks like as follows:
- Spindle sleeves to allow for e46 325i brakes (so as to keep 16" wheels)
- From the above, the track width is increased by approximately 14-15mm each side.
- E46 330i Steering Rack
- Inner Tie Rod Spacers so allow for some additional lock
- BC Racing front camber plates "notched" to allow for upwards of 4.5degress negative camber when needed. I generally keep it around 3.5-4 for autocross.
- Treehouse style offset FCABs. With this, caster was gained in at the hub, having moved the wheel forward in the arch
- Not of any consequence, but the car has 470hp so is naturally tail happy
Before "notching" the camber plate
After
Given that the elongation of the slots in the top plates provided more camber than I arguably need, I started looking at clocking the plates to result in a "sweep" that proportionately adjusts caster and caber progressively. Why? I was bored.
I don't see an issue with this, but I'm wondering if there are any negative consequences?
Sciences
Result
At max camber/caster, this results in an additional 20mm positive caster with camber sitting at -4.
As the slider is moved into the central position, stock caster is achieved (granted there are offset FCABs), which camber is around -1.5.
To me this seems like a fair compromise for satisfying the Sunday morning adjustments needed to go from daily driver to Autocross/backroads ripper.
I have a roll center correction kit ready to go in, but want to play with this before adding any more variables.
Sessy shots as a reward for reading the post
Full compression camber up front on 225/50s
Same setting, but when "light"
Bit of everything
Comment