I am having trouble diagnosing running issues with my 325i. Apologies for long post, but I want to avoid questions I already have answers to. Car purchased 6 months ago and found lots of mostly minor issues and leaks. It idled rough when I bought it, but overall ran pretty well and did pass smog.
Other than oil leaks fixes which there were many of, the crank position sensor was replaced with a bmw replacement because the old one was frayed. Timing belt was replaced as well as new distributor cap and rotor. Ignition wires in very good shape. All fuel and vacuum rubber bits were thoroughly checked out and replaced if needed. Especially vacuum lines around throttle body. Intake gaskets AND bitch tube o rings replaced and all associated areas cleaned. Bolts properly torqued to spec and bitch tube inserted correctly.
Throttle body was disassembled, cleaned, and new sealed bearings were installed very successfully. I took tons of pictures and this project went very well. The original bearings weren't sealing anymore and were a source of vacuum leak and new ones are air tight. TPS sensor checked for all 3 conditions (idle, mid throttle and WOT).
A check engine light came on during startup, but not right away. I made sure the CPS was OE spec distance from the trigger wheel. I have checked all connections to TPS, CPS, inductor, plug wires, coolant sensors inc blue one for dme.Valves were adjusted to .010" cold and rechecked before startup.
Car starts normally hot or cold but idles rough. If a small amount of throttle is held, the rpms move around in an irregular fashion (hunting essentially). Overall its bad enough I will not drive the car.
So I suspect the CEL is trying to tell me something and here's the main reason for this post. I have tried about 100 times to get the stomp test to work and it just will not blink for me. Since my car is an '88 I even checked to make sure I have the dme with motronic 1.3 (#173). My buddy, a fellow e30 owner, also could not get the stomp test to work despite many tries of different techniques. I checked that the throttle body is fulling closing and that the idle switch turns off when its supposed to, since I read that can prevent the stomp test from working. Once again also checked WOT position on TPS. ICV was cleaned and checked for operation.
Anyone in the SF bay area have an e30 code reader I can borrow? Really trying to get this thing on the road and I seemingly have checked everything I can imagine. Idle is rougher than when I bought the car, and its running worse so it must be something I did...despite tons of vacuum related stuff being fixed vs before.
Other than oil leaks fixes which there were many of, the crank position sensor was replaced with a bmw replacement because the old one was frayed. Timing belt was replaced as well as new distributor cap and rotor. Ignition wires in very good shape. All fuel and vacuum rubber bits were thoroughly checked out and replaced if needed. Especially vacuum lines around throttle body. Intake gaskets AND bitch tube o rings replaced and all associated areas cleaned. Bolts properly torqued to spec and bitch tube inserted correctly.
Throttle body was disassembled, cleaned, and new sealed bearings were installed very successfully. I took tons of pictures and this project went very well. The original bearings weren't sealing anymore and were a source of vacuum leak and new ones are air tight. TPS sensor checked for all 3 conditions (idle, mid throttle and WOT).
A check engine light came on during startup, but not right away. I made sure the CPS was OE spec distance from the trigger wheel. I have checked all connections to TPS, CPS, inductor, plug wires, coolant sensors inc blue one for dme.Valves were adjusted to .010" cold and rechecked before startup.
Car starts normally hot or cold but idles rough. If a small amount of throttle is held, the rpms move around in an irregular fashion (hunting essentially). Overall its bad enough I will not drive the car.
So I suspect the CEL is trying to tell me something and here's the main reason for this post. I have tried about 100 times to get the stomp test to work and it just will not blink for me. Since my car is an '88 I even checked to make sure I have the dme with motronic 1.3 (#173). My buddy, a fellow e30 owner, also could not get the stomp test to work despite many tries of different techniques. I checked that the throttle body is fulling closing and that the idle switch turns off when its supposed to, since I read that can prevent the stomp test from working. Once again also checked WOT position on TPS. ICV was cleaned and checked for operation.
Anyone in the SF bay area have an e30 code reader I can borrow? Really trying to get this thing on the road and I seemingly have checked everything I can imagine. Idle is rougher than when I bought the car, and its running worse so it must be something I did...despite tons of vacuum related stuff being fixed vs before.
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