SoCal General Chat

[thebutcher37]

Any m42 savvy r3vers?
Keep in mind this is the second time i will be tackling this intake noise leak.

I need to replace at least 1 loose or stripped stud on the lower intake manifold. If i need to remove the lower manifold (i'd like to replace the gasket for piece of mind also.)
Do I need to remove the fuel rail; which means needing to replace injector o-rings and clips? Or can I kind of let it float around while i remove the lower intake to replace the lower intake gasket and studs.

I made a thread about it below:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=339600

Thanks for looking!

[LowR3V'in]

I saw a white eta with a clean engine looks like it's been rebuilt probably.
bilsteins and new ball joints, sway bar links. It also had an arche fest 2013 sticker.

in the juinkyard Imean.

[XwalkerX]

anyone have a steering wheel that i could borrow for like a week or two while i send mine out to get re-wrapped?

[JFarhanbod]

anyone have a steering wheel that i could borrow for like a week or two while i send mine out to get re-wrapped?

I think I have one you can borrow, I can check tomorrow.

[XwalkerX]

[ak-]

Just did my subframe/trailing-arm/diff bushings with the camber/toe adjustments.
Poly everything and -2.5 camber with 0 toe.

Worlds difference. It feels so much more planted and increased grip and confidence on turns. Highly recommended if you've been thinking about it.

[reelizmpro]

Any pics of the camber/toe adjusters?

[ak-]

Any pics of the camber/toe adjusters?

Unfortunately no, but I will when I have the car in the air.
I used the serrated teeth style adjusters instead of the eccentric ones that always seem to slip since that's what was recommended for the power I'm running.

I was told that if anyone decides to use the eccentric style ones, you are able to tack-weld it in place after you do the alignment and just grind it off in case you were ever to change anything.

[reelizmpro]

I'm going to be doing mine very soon. Just not sure if I want to go stock or poly with toe adjustment.

[phreshkid]

damn you abdu.


The 1600 is getting this treatment.

[Rdannyr]

So I went to the junk yard yesterday too pick up a m20 maf and came back with an m52b28 lol. I've never pulled an engine or done a swap before and I must say it was surprisingly easy to pull it. But might be a bit over my head with the swap. I've been doing a lot of research and most of it doesn't seem to be too hard to actually swap it but since its a junk yard motor I want to rebuild it or at least the head. Doesn't anybody have idea how much work I should put into the engine. Will a head job be enough.

Sent from my LG-VS985 using Tapatalk

[ak-]

I'm going to be doing mine very soon. Just not sure if I want to go stock or poly with toe adjustment.

My rear bushings were stock and 20+ years old, so going from that situation with all the thuds, squeaks, and shakes from road imperfections accompanied by the noodle feeling the car had on the highway at speed/load (which I thought wasn't as noodley as other e30's I've been in, but I was wrong) to the setup I have now is all positive. The chassis is now planted in the rear and doesn't want to "roam" around on its own. I also have no gripes on comfort level either - it just feels like a solid and planted car now that wants to dig in and shoot straight, which I suppose can be considered as "harsh" to some because some noodle is attributed to comfort and ride quality I guess.

But then again, rubber lasts a decade+, so yeah.
Do the camber/toe adjustments. E30 M3 subframes aren't specific to the car in terms of cost right? Like alum. M3 control arms? I went from -3.5 to a requested -2.5 camber and there was still tons of adjustment left. Also went from -0.25 toe in to 0 now in the rear.

The car is much more predictable too now. Coming out of a turn where the car is going to or wants to step out is more predictable and manageable with throttle input - not that I'm doing stupid things in the street, but a spirited turn has become much more feasible and won't immediately slide away from me or snap back/tank slap at me if I'm being aggressive. It's one smooth transition now.

damn you abdu.


The 1600 is getting this treatment.

It better because I'm going to hold my breath.
Hurry before school and adult things start.

[2mAn]

I was planning on doing all my bushings and waited too long... Now the car is at JMP getting all the bushings replaced, along with repairing the broken subframe mount...

It will finally be all done tomorrow. IE posi-lock adjusters, and AKG/ IE bushings for the subframe trailing arms, & diff. Its basically the last of the bushings left to do on the car.

[reelizmpro]

My rear bushings were stock and 20+ years old, so going from that situation with all the thuds, squeaks, and shakes from road imperfections accompanied by the noodle feeling the car had on the highway at speed/load (which I thought wasn't as noodley as other e30's I've been in, but I was wrong) to the setup I have now is all positive. The chassis is now planted in the rear and doesn't want to "roam" around on its own. I also have no gripes on comfort level either - it just feels like a solid and planted car now that wants to dig in and shoot straight, which I suppose can be considered as "harsh" to some because some noodle is attributed to comfort and ride quality I guess.

But then again, rubber lasts a decade+, so yeah.
Do the camber/toe adjustments. E30 M3 subframes aren't specific to the car in terms of cost right? Like alum. M3 control arms? I went from -3.5 to a requested -2.5 camber and there was still tons of adjustment left. Also went from -0.25 toe in to 0 now in the rear.

The car is much more predictable too now. Coming out of a turn where the car is going to or wants to step out is more predictable and manageable with throttle input - not that I'm doing stupid things in the street, but a spirited turn has become much more feasible and won't immediately slide away from me or snap back/tank slap at me if I'm being aggressive. It's one smooth transition now.


It better because I'm going to hold my breath.
Hurry before school and adult things start.

Yeah, M3 rear subframes are slightly different but nothing drastic. I am reluctant to weld any of those kits in though. Besides, I keep reading about them coming loose and being useless unless they are locked down somehow.

[ak-]

Yaump. Like I mentioned, if you use the eccentric ones, you can tack weld the bolt so it won't move. No big deal, or use the locking serrated type ones I used. IE sells them.