Originally posted by thereisnoyun
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2nd Annual Barbecue at Brody's - March 28th
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Originally posted by Mde36 View Postyea I want to get them on before the meet. They'll arrive friday but they may have to wait.
fronts are a pain
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Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Postinstalling front shocks requires some experience, cause the holding nut can often rust on to the old strut housing, I would use a 24 inch pipe wrench, or at least have in the past, to break if off, after pbblaster and heat to flow the pbblaster intothe threads.
fronts are a pain
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Originally posted by Mde36 View Postits rear shocks, stiffer than the worn out kyb's that are on there now. Hopefully they will get my tires out of my fenders
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Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Postdid you get teh little set screws for the rotors?Originally posted by trackbball21 View PostNo, I did not. I will order those today. Thanks for reminding me.
Not a must.I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.
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2875-C Towerview Road
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i love how people get all worried about the rotor screw. it doesn't do anything after you bolt the wheel on. The lug bolts hold the wheel on, which in turn holds the rotor in place. ithe screw has no purpose other than keeping the rotor from falling off before you put the wheel on (the rotor can't come off anyway, because it's blocked by the caliper). i guess it makes it a little easier, but who cares?Originally posted by BillBraskyThat's like Vlad challenging Chip Foose to a car painting contest.Originally posted by acolella76i'm pretty sure 'Phillis' is short for syphilis
1994 tercel, 5efhe swap, i/h/e
1984 t-type, 5.3/th350 swap in progress
My newest addition:
Rebecca Arlene, born 4/19/2013
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Originally posted by ieatpeople View Posti love how people get all worried about the rotor screw. it doesn't do anything after you bolt the wheel on. The lug bolts hold the wheel on, which in turn holds the rotor in place. ithe screw has no purpose other than keeping the rotor from falling off before you put the wheel on (the rotor can't come off anyway, because it's blocked by the caliper). i guess it makes it a little easier, but who cares?
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if they come with the new rotors than by all means, install the freakin screws, but don't waste money on 4 new screws plus shipping.Originally posted by BillBraskyThat's like Vlad challenging Chip Foose to a car painting contest.Originally posted by acolella76i'm pretty sure 'Phillis' is short for syphilis
1994 tercel, 5efhe swap, i/h/e
1984 t-type, 5.3/th350 swap in progress
My newest addition:
Rebecca Arlene, born 4/19/2013
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Ean, you don't need to jack the car up to swap rear shocks. Trust me. I've pulled them a few times just out in a parking lot. You need a 19mm socket for the bottom bolt, then a 13mm one for the top ones, and it depends on what shocks you have as far as what size you need for the gland nut.
Oh, and they won't help making it stiffer, they will only help it bounce less.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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Originally posted by e30_325es View PostEan, you don't need to jack the car up to swap rear shocks. Trust me. I've pulled them a few times just out in a parking lot. You need a 19mm socket for the bottom bolt, then a 13mm one for the top ones, and it depends on what shocks you have as far as what size you need for the gland nut.
Oh, and they won't help making it stiffer, they will only help it bounce less.
isn't that the same thing? But thanks that helps
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