2nd Annual Barbecue at Brody's - March 28th
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fronts are a painComment
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installing front shocks requires some experience, cause the holding nut can often rust on to the old strut housing, I would use a 24 inch pipe wrench, or at least have in the past, to break if off, after pbblaster and heat to flow the pbblaster intothe threads.
fronts are a painComment
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we can do the rear easily at the bottom of the hill. one bolt bottom two on top a side, doesnt take long. jack it up from teh diff, dont even need jack stands. I swap the rear shock mounts 3 times on the hill already.Comment
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You guys don't need that screw. It's really not a must. Some people say "it holds the rotor in place for it to be centered", but that's also a guy that races that says that. Usually they're there only from the assembly line and when people replace the rotors they just put it back.
Not a must.I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.
Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com
Delta Auto Care
2875-C Towerview Road
Herndon, VA
703.435.1375
My Feedback Thread: Evil_TwinComment
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i love how people get all worried about the rotor screw. it doesn't do anything after you bolt the wheel on. The lug bolts hold the wheel on, which in turn holds the rotor in place. ithe screw has no purpose other than keeping the rotor from falling off before you put the wheel on (the rotor can't come off anyway, because it's blocked by the caliper). i guess it makes it a little easier, but who cares?Originally posted by BillBraskyThat's like Vlad challenging Chip Foose to a car painting contest.Originally posted by acolella76i'm pretty sure 'Phillis' is short for syphilis
1994 tercel, 5efhe swap, i/h/e
1984 t-type, 5.3/th350 swap in progress
My newest addition:
Rebecca Arlene, born 4/19/2013Comment
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Ugh I need to move closer to teh toilet, so I can partake...but I guess I need to get ol lapis running firstComment
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i love how people get all worried about the rotor screw. it doesn't do anything after you bolt the wheel on. The lug bolts hold the wheel on, which in turn holds the rotor in place. ithe screw has no purpose other than keeping the rotor from falling off before you put the wheel on (the rotor can't come off anyway, because it's blocked by the caliper). i guess it makes it a little easier, but who cares?Comment
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if they come with the new rotors than by all means, install the freakin screws, but don't waste money on 4 new screws plus shipping.Originally posted by BillBraskyThat's like Vlad challenging Chip Foose to a car painting contest.Originally posted by acolella76i'm pretty sure 'Phillis' is short for syphilis
1994 tercel, 5efhe swap, i/h/e
1984 t-type, 5.3/th350 swap in progress
My newest addition:
Rebecca Arlene, born 4/19/2013Comment
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I did just that - wasted 7 dollars on shipping. such a ripoff. Oh well, I'm replacing all that stuff anyways, so might as well do it now.Comment
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Ean, you don't need to jack the car up to swap rear shocks. Trust me. I've pulled them a few times just out in a parking lot. You need a 19mm socket for the bottom bolt, then a 13mm one for the top ones, and it depends on what shocks you have as far as what size you need for the gland nut.
Oh, and they won't help making it stiffer, they will only help it bounce less.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.Comment
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Ean, you don't need to jack the car up to swap rear shocks. Trust me. I've pulled them a few times just out in a parking lot. You need a 19mm socket for the bottom bolt, then a 13mm one for the top ones, and it depends on what shocks you have as far as what size you need for the gland nut.
Oh, and they won't help making it stiffer, they will only help it bounce less.
isn't that the same thing? But thanks that helpsComment
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